X Valve pin and E mode

[FA22RaptorF22]

Ok, heres the deal. My X-Mag has a tuned level 10 and standard on/off. This r/t has been tested beyond 30 cps with no problems.

With a caliper the on/off pin measures .701 in. I am told that X valves should be .712; Still, that being said, it operates fine.

Edit: Tolerances for all sear components have been verified as correct as well.

The problem is with E mode. The noid is able to fire shots off at a rof under 8 bps. If i shoot faster, it chuffs in a manner such that i am short stroking the valve.

----Would you say this is the pin's fault, or something else? I mean, what is there to prevent you from firing off the noid mid bolt stroke?

Thanks-

[Ando]

Take your calipers and ck the length of your plunger and sear

Plunger = 3.005

Sear = 2.125

You have the proper on/off pin ;)

EDIT: Just seen your EDIT...Adj your plunger in .005 increments till it start working properly.

Your plunger might have gone Tango Uniform. :(
See what adj it does for you.

EDIT # Dos

Have you been rapid firing this thing before? I know you been posting on BE about going ludicrous speed on your mag. You might have torched your plunger, worst case the board. :tard:

[FA22RaptorF22]

Take your calipers and ck the length of your plunger and sear

Plunger = 3.005

Sear = 2.125

You have the proper on/off pin ;)

EDIT: Just seen your EDIT...Adj your plunger in .005 increments till it start working properly.

Your plunger might have gone Tango Uniform. :(
See what adj it does for you.

EDIT # Dos

Have you been rapid firing this thing before? I know you been posting on BE about going ludicrous speed on your mag. You might have torched your plunger, worst case the board. :tard:

Its 1am here...so no tuning tonight lol, but I will try adjusting the plunger. This thing has had a little bit of rapid firing, but the noid, board and plunger are perfect and in adjustment.

[Tao]

The problem is with E mode. The noid is able to fire shots off at a rof under 8 bps. If i shoot faster, it chuffs in a manner such that i am short stroking the valve.


Thanks-

I get this with the xmod full auto with anything over 15 BPS. I am curious to the cause as well.

**I have not fired the gun in full auto for long lengths of time to fry the noid ;)

[FA22RaptorF22]

I get this with the xmod full auto with anything over 15 BPS. I am curious to the cause as well.

**I have not fired the gun in full auto for long lengths of time to fry the noid ;)

Right, but mine does this at like 8 bps. Also, with xmod, to fix that, just mess with your dwell a little bit.

Also, how long is your on/off pin, and input pressure TAO?

[SSP REAPER]

Right, but mine does this at like 8 bps. Also, with xmod, to fix that, just mess with your dwell a little bit.

Also, how long is your on/off pin, and input pressure TAO?
your dwell should be set at 15 for xmod. my on off pin is .7005 as well.

[FA22RaptorF22]

your dwell should be set at 15 for xmod. my on off pin is .7005 as well.

Why should it not be .712 like everyone else recommends? .701 is closer to an emag pin....no?

[Ando]

Ya guys. I forgot about the Dwell and what not you can mess with. I would go that route first before you start adj anything. You guys need to download the X-Mod manual. There's a ton of good stuff in it. Especially you Raptor since you know all your measurements are on the mark. Could just be a software tuning issue.


EDIT:

Why should it not be .712 like everyone else recommends? .701 is closer to an emag pin....no?

Cause Reaper I'm sure tweaked his lowers, you can shave the pin as short as you want (or until you screw it up) to get what ever performance your after. .712 is E-mag length but you need to do some adjusting if you wanting to go over a certain BPS in E-mode. There is an invisible wall that a stock E-Mag will hit without the tuning, timing and tweaking of certain parts.

A few of the Mag-Tech Monkey here already trouble shot it to death, I just don't remember who it was. :rolleyes:

[SSP REAPER]

.712 is your stock Emag pin length. With Xmod you can go a little shorter on the pin for a little more performance without any worries. Check the strength of your solenoid and make sure it's healthy.

To do so:

Pull rail off lowers and hold the sear up a little bit with your finger. Next power up the lowers and in whatever mode you want, pull the trigger. Make sure your sear lockout (rear safety) isn't on. Your solenoid should pull that sear down with a little bit of force. If not, contact tunaman about a solenoid. Also check your battery and make sure it isn't on it's way out either.
:cheers:

[FA22RaptorF22]

Ok guys. I have checked the noid numerous times.

This noid is strong and pulls hard enough to hurt your fingers :p

I have used xmod in the past, but I do not have a programmer and It currently has AGD 4.01 with custom boot message. Only fire mode is semi. I cannot change dwell.

The valve should keep up.

Suggestions?

[SSP REAPER]

are you using a quad o-ring with your on/off or standard o-ring?

[FA22RaptorF22]

are you using a quad o-ring with your on/off or standard o-ring?

I sadly can't tell i never took those out.

It looks like a set of three rings or something like that, so i assume that its a quad

[Ando]

are you using a quad o-ring with your on/off or standard o-ring?

FYI...That Oring will be black in color and look funny almost like it's has flat spots in it.

[FA22RaptorF22]

FYI...That Oring will be black in color and look funny almost like it's has flat spots in it.

Well im not sure, what difference does it make?

The gun works, and works well, so I dont see why i would have to change orings.

[SSP REAPER]

Well im not sure, what difference does it make?

The gun works, and works well, so I dont see why i would have to change orings.
it helps seal better :cool:

[FA22RaptorF22]

But what is the underlying factor that would let you short stroke in E mode?

Do we need more pressure? IE more reactivity, so that the sear gets pushed back even if you try to fire when its trying to reset?

[Ando]

You shouldn't be getting any reactivity in E-mode. Hybrid is ok but not in E-Mode. If your sear is hitting your trigger in "True E-Mode" then you need to shorten it.

Pressure has nothing to do with how fast you shoot in E-mode until you get into the higher BPS range and even then it's almost no factor.


Well im not sure, what difference does it make?

The gun works, and works well, so I dont see why i would have to change orings.

Apparently not if you you can't shoot over 8 BPS

[FA22RaptorF22]

You shouldn't be getting any reactivity in E-mode. Hybrid is ok but not in E-Mode. If your sear is hitting your trigger in "True E-Mode" then you need to shorten it.

Pressure has nothing to do with how fast you shoot in E-mode until you get into the higher BPS range and even then it's almost no factor.



Apparently not if you you can't shoot over 8 BPS

Hold up here. This valve has hit 30+ and still does in R/T mech mode, while this is at 1500-2000psi.

The problem is at lower pressures such as 800. it shoots, but just not fast.

Also, trigger rod is exactly where i want it. You get reactivity in hybrid, and none in emode.

Works fine as a mech...but 1 out of every 8 in emode is a short stroke. Batt is charged and plunger set to 3.005". I will experiement by turning the plunger in and out .005"

[SSP REAPER]

Hold up here. This valve has hit 30+ and still does in R/T mech mode, while this is at 1500-2000psi.

The problem is at lower pressures such as 800. it shoots, but just not fast.

Also, trigger rod is exactly where i want it. You get reactivity in hybrid, and none in emode.

Works fine as a mech...but 1 out of every 8 in emode is a short stroke. Batt is charged and plunger set to 3.005". I will experiement by turning the plunger in and out .005"
lengthen your plunger .005" first and see if it helps. What kind of tank/reg are you using? Maybe the reg doesn't have a good enough flow rate...?

[FA22RaptorF22]

lengthen your plunger .005" first and see if it helps. What kind of tank/reg are you using? Maybe the reg doesn't have a good enough flow rate...?

Works fine off a scuba...but i was using my friends preset 850 to test.

I have a dynaflow coming in tomorrow. Will try that.

Thanks

[Tao]

Right, but mine does this at like 8 bps. Also, with xmod, to fix that, just mess with your dwell a little bit.

Also, how long is your on/off pin, and input pressure TAO?

pin is standard emag...havent measured but it is shorter than a .750 pin I ordered.

I used the full range of pressure, from 700-1200 (I have a flatline)

[FA22RaptorF22]

Works fine off a scuba...but i was using my friends preset 850 to test.

I have a dynaflow coming in tomorrow. Will try that.

Thanks

So, the dyna is in, and works great. It seems to max out at 1000 psi as the adjustment screw bottoms out. A bigger spring would get the pressure up higher right? How would one go about getting more pressure out of the thing?

Also, it seems that this issue is solved with the steady input from the dyna.

Will update futher as time goes on. Thanks.

[Tao]

So, the dyna is in, and works great. It seems to max out at 1000 psi as the adjustment screw bottoms out. A bigger spring would get the pressure up higher right? How would one go about getting more pressure out of the thing?

Also, it seems that this issue is solved with the steady input from the dyna.

Will update futher as time goes on. Thanks.

Anymore pressure and you can blow a hose. Especially if you are using macro line!

The more pressure into your RT valve, the more your velocity will climb when shooting fast. I would leave it at 900.

[Ando]

So, the dyna is in, and works great. It seems to max out at 1000 psi as the adjustment screw bottoms out. A bigger spring would get the pressure up higher right? How would one go about getting more pressure out of the thing?

Also, it seems that this issue is solved with the steady input from the dyna.

Will update futher as time goes on. Thanks.
Could add washers

[FA22RaptorF22]

Thanks all.

And Ando, I will try washers sometime.

And Tao, I use all SS line with quick disconnects with all parts rated to 3000 psi.

**Update.

The dynaflow is great and solved the inconsistancy issues that made me think that emode was broken. Emode is fine, and gun r/t's like crazy.

I shot 200rds through the X in 15 degree weather while it was snowing out. I had only one bolt stick as the lvl 10 was tuned for 70 degree weather. I shot about 20bps. Worked great. I had the dynaflow set at 900psi. Stupid halo doesn't go any faster.......der der.

[maniacmechanic]

Works fine off a scuba...but i was using my friends preset 850 to test.
I have a dynaflow coming in tomorrow. Will try that.
Thanks

Now did the E mode work fine off the scuba also ?
When using the 850 preset , did either or both modes work correctly ??


**Update.

The dynaflow is great and solved the inconsistancy issues that made me think that emode was broken. Emode is fine, and gun r/t's like crazy.

I shot 200rds through the X in 15 degree weather while it was snowing out. I had only one bolt stick as the lvl 10 was tuned for 70 degree weather. I shot about 20bps. Worked great. I had the dynaflow set at 900psi. Stupid halo doesn't go any faster.......der der.

and now with the Dyna all is well , thats good :shooting:

[FA22RaptorF22]

Now did the E mode work fine off the scuba also ?
When using the 850 preset , did either or both modes work correctly ??



and now with the Dyna all is well , thats good :shooting:


The scuba worked fine. Increased pressure made the pin harder to trip for the noid...but otherwise it worked fine in e or m mode.

The problem here guys, that unbenouced to me, the preset reg was failing....and the pressure was dropping in the reg til the point where the reg o ring failed and pressure bleed off in the preset kicked in. So by that time the dyna came in so all was good there, and I spend a day getting the preset apart to fix that.

:ninja: time baby :shooting:

[maniacmechanic]

so a bad tank reg was making you pull your hair out , i'll remember this one !!