Question about classic valves...

[Loneassassin]

After doing a little research on Mags, I've discovered that they aren't the most efficient guns out there.

A lot of the playing I do is not at a commercial field, but highly organized "outlaw" woodsball. (We have the support of the Forest Service.)

Anyway, getting Hpa fills is not the easiest thing in the world. I have a scuba tank, but that's only good for so many fills, and it's kind of a pain to get it filled because the dive shop is only open 3 afternoons a week.

I originally planned to get an X-valve, lvl 10'd, ULE bodied Mag, but now I'm starting to wonder if it would be better to go with a Classic valve, since they can use Co2.

I would still plan on using Hpa, but I'd like to have the option of running Co2 if necessary. Does the Lvl 10 bolt work with a Classic valve? How about the ULT kit? I'm thinking about trying the ULT, or Pneumagging it if the ULT is not good enough.

I've been told the classic valve is good till about 15bps, then starts to drop off - true? I wouldn't ever need it to go faster than that anyway, since I want it to be field legal, ie - true semi, no RT effect. Plus I have a gun already that will go 25+bps as if I'd ever need it. :D

[CatoRockwell]

Ult will not work on a classic valve

Lvl 10 will but I don't know how well it will perform on co2

you are 100% right mags are about average on efficiency I personlly only do outlaw and I run an xvalve emag. My recommendation is get some cheap stainless steel hpa tanks as back ups

[Tao]

A level 10 will use more air.

If you want super efficient go with an retro valve. The friction from the fast recharge will save more of the energy contained in the tank.

[Loneassassin]

I guess I've just been spoiled by the 1800+ shots I get out of my cockers w/ a 68/45. :D

How many shots are we talking, anyway - on a 68/45, that is?

Maybe I'll just stick with my original plan - I do want it to be fairly quick and have a super light trigger pull.

[Tao]

I guess I've just been spoiled by the 1800+ shots I get out of my cockers w/ a 68/45. :D

How many shots are we talking, anyway - on a 68/45, that is?

Maybe I'll just stick with my original plan - I do want it to be fairly quick and have a super light trigger pull.

A retro valve and a ULT would work for you. You should be able to get a "Retro" or "emag" valve for cheap.

[rawbutter]

How many shots are we talking, anyway - on a 68/45, that is?


Probably about half of what you'd get from your cocker.

To answer your question about a classic valve... I have a classic valve on a hyperframe, and I can get it to hit speeds of 13-14 bps if I'm using HPA. If I'm using CO2, I can only do those speeds in short bursts (and I have to use a remote or expansion chamber). So yes, a classic should meet your speed requirements.

[Loneassassin]

Probably about half of what you'd get from your cocker.

To answer your question about a classic valve... I have a classic valve on a hyperframe, and I can get it to hit speeds of 13-14 bps if I'm using HPA. If I'm using CO2, I can only do those speeds in short bursts (and I have to use a remote or expansion chamber). So yes, a classic should meet your speed requirements.

Cool. What on/off do you have? I'm really after a super light pull to make it walkable, or at least walkable for short bursts. I can shoot about 10bps on my mech cocker just pulling the trigger, not walking it (it's not quite walkable) - and I'm after just a little more speed. :)

[rawbutter]

Cool. What on/off do you have? I'm really after a super light pull to make it walkable, or at least walkable for short bursts. I can shoot about 10bps on my mech cocker just pulling the trigger, not walking it (it's not quite walkable) - and I'm after just a little more speed. :)

The hyperframe is an e-trigger, and the classic valve paired with it has been modified to accept a ULT. (You want it? It's for sale in the BTS forums. :D )

Which reminds me... that's something else you have to think about. Classic valves don't accept ULT on/offs. You have to mod them (i.e. drill out the valve to accept the different on/off). You CAN pneumag a classic valve without a ULT, but you'll be running a lot of air into the pnuematics... probably double or triple than normal, and that will decrease your efficiency. (I'm not sure about Zap's new cheater manifold. That might give you much better results.)

[Mer]

Get another scuba tank. Use 1 only for the initial fills and the other to top it off. This will probably run you under $100.

[Coralis]

Which reminds me... that's something else you have to think about. Classic valves don't accept ULT on/offs. You have to mod them (i.e. drill out the valve to accept the different on/off). You CAN pneumag a classic valve without a ULT, but you'll be running a lot of air into the pnuematics... probably double or triple than normal, and that will decrease your efficiency. (I'm not sure about Zap's new cheater manifold. That might give you much better results.)

Classic valve do not have to be drilled to accept a ult . This is from the ult sticky at the top of the page.

This on/off assembly will fit and is recommended for the following: X-Valves Aluminum RT-Pro Valves
This on/off assembly can fit but is NOT recommended for the following: E-Mags w/ double o-ring top Micro E-Mags MiniMag AIR Valves 68Automag Valves Classic Automag Valves HyperMags SmartMags
This on/off assembly will NOT fit the following: Stainless Steel RT-Pro Valves Retro Valves E-Mags w/ single o-ring top Original RTs w/ Banjo Bolt valve.