How fast can you get your e-mag?

[om3n]

So I am invited to go play at an indoor reball field for someone's birthday, and apparently the rules there are for $20 we get unlimited air fills and unlimited reballs. They also don't care about rate of fire.

This has gotten me extremely excited, so I decided to try to see how fast I can get my mag going. I haven't adjusted the dwell or the fix yet, but as of right now I can get about 20 bps without problems (chuffing) on stock settings. What I would like to know is how fast have you guys gotten your mags, and with what settings? I'm using x-mod 1.8 by the way.

[kcombs9]

Hey Om3n, I don't have a way to measure yet tell I get my hand held crono.

But I know iv been up to 15ish not even trying though.

[CatoRockwell]

If you are running it as an electro the fastest the solenoid will go is like 26 bps. If you are rting it the fastest I've seen is 31 bps

[BigEvil]

In E I can get it to 23bps. I havent tried running over 900 psi into it though..


**I hope if BYOP for your wallet's sake :D

[kcombs9]

In E I can get it to 23bps. I havent tried running over 900 psi into it though..


**I hope if BYOP for your wallet's sake :D


OP: "$20 we get unlimited air fills and unlimited reballs"

[Frizzle Fry]

I got my Xmag to fire consistently at 26bps with a 950psi output tank... Xmod1.8, full auto, no chops or LVL10 rejections. It was purely to settle a bet about automags and ROF, not in field conditions and not in semi. It also had a fairly immaculately tuned LVL10 (if I do say so myself) but it's still a testament to the amazing capabilities of Automags, given the right hopper/tank/paint.

[BigEvil]

OP: "$20 we get unlimited air fills and unlimited reballs"

;)

[maniacmechanic]

I do hope you are shooting at experenced players
What is the fields chrono limit , be prepared to chrono a lot lower than normal ( so it may want to be set up different ) I actually have a valve ( marker ) set up for night play , my normal setup won't run at 250 FPS

[MANN]

our old reball fields were 220 chrono.

[athomas]

Drop the gold bolt spring in there. It allows a faster cycle time and will allow you to chrono lower for indoor play. Faster cycle time will allow for more cycles per second.

[Frizzle Fry]

Faster cycle time will allow for more cycles per second.

:cool:

[Rudz]

I think big E got mine up to 28 with a shaved on/off pin , xmod, and a high output tank, lol

[FA22RaptorF22]

I think big E got mine up to 28 with a shaved on/off pin , xmod, and a high output tank, lol

QFT.

I attained that as a top maximum speed of e mode.

I pulled 28 with a dwell of 18; xmod1.8; and 1000psi on a dynaflow; .712 pin quad oring.

The higher pressure helps reset the plunger/sear faster and allows you to get higher rates of fire. :D

[cockerpunk]

on the emag your going to be solenoid limited not pneumatically limited. and the noid can probably trigger faster then you can load it anyway. most loaders dont do too well with feeding reballs esp dirty ones.

[om3n]

on the emag your going to be solenoid limited not pneumatically limited. and the noid can probably trigger faster then you can load it anyway. most loaders dont do too well with feeding reballs esp dirty ones.

Thanks for the replies so far guys.

this is my setup:

- nitroduck i-reg that outputs 1000psi
- ground on/off pin, courtesy of Big-E
- currently have a red spring on my bolt, I will try a gold spring tomorrow however
- loader is a prophesy, so my that 'shouldn't' bottleneck me.

I tried messing with my gun earlier today, and using the chart from neidtech.com about dwell, fix, and rof, I was able to get it going at a solid 22 bps before it would chuff. I'm going to try using a steel braided hose rather than the macro line that's currently feeding the valve to see if the chuffing is a result of air constriction (also my battery was half dead, so that could be a factor). This was also with a red spring, I will try a gold spring soon. I chopped about 3 balls though when I finally tried to run paint through the gun, and that was a major disappointment. I will also try the above settings to see if I have luck with those

EDIT
one more piece of information is that the field chrono is 260 fps

[smeek]

I agree with cockerpunk, reballs don't feed well. I think a prophecy is still going to be a bottle neck with dirty reballs, they just like to jam in whatever loader you're using. I haven't played with reballs in a long time, but my Halos never did like them, I'd always end up using a revy. Although the place I went to never cleaned them either.

[Ando]

I agree with cockerpunk, reballs don't feed well. I think a prophecy is still going to be a bottle neck with dirty reballs, they just like to jam in whatever loader you're using. I haven't played with reballs in a long time, but my Halos never did like them, I'd always end up using a revy. Although the place I went to never cleaned them either.
/QFT...

...on the Revy. Once you get the bag or what ever they give you as a container for the balls. Bring some paint with you and bust 2 or 3 balls in the container and mix it. Coating the balls will lube and keep them from sticking on the inside your prophecy and should help with jams. If all else fails get old school on their A double S's with a Revy. ;)

[fishmishin]

My pinokio will feed reballs consistently at 25bps, but it has the P-board upgrade on it also. :D
This was tested at the local indoor reball facility by a buddy of mine running his 07 EGO, I wasn't present though I just let him borrow it to try it out.

Sorry I know its a bit off topic, I just figured it might help out some with using reballs !

[p8ntballin007]

Whatever happened to that video that Z-Man made about 6-8 years ago. He hooked his rt pro directly to a scuba tank puting out around 3000psi. It was around when I stoped playing paintball so I never got to hear the final BPS count. Rumor was that it was around 50 bps, but the audio clip was fuzzy or something and couldn't be properly analyzed.

[kcombs9]

Always clean your balls... :rolleyes:

[FA22RaptorF22]

Whatever happened to that video that Z-Man made about 6-8 years ago. He hooked his rt pro directly to a scuba tank puting out around 3000psi. It was around when I stoped playing paintball so I never got to hear the final BPS count. Rumor was that it was around 50 bps, but the audio clip was fuzzy or something and couldn't be properly analyzed.

You mean 34.5 bps? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paintballs/z-man_videos/zman_videos_main.html

[p8ntballin007]

You mean 34.5 bps? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paintballs/z-man_videos/zman_videos_main.html

Good Find. I saw that page when I was looking for it, but didn't notice that it was actually on there. I'm glad that they actually were able to get a good audio analysis on it.

[om3n]

/QFT...

...on the Revy. Once you get the bag or what ever they give you as a container for the balls. Bring some paint with you and bust 2 or 3 balls in the container and mix it. Coating the balls will lube and keep them from sticking on the inside your prophecy and should help with jams. If all else fails get old school on their A double S's with a Revy. ;)

Really? With paint?

Cleaning out the prophesy afterward will sure be fun. I've never broken a ball in the prophesy before but I have taken it apart... and man does it suck to put back together. You have to get the shells aligned JUST right...

I have some crappy reballs at my house right now, rufus dog brand, and they really suck. I just use them for testing usually. They seem quite small compared to normal paint (they are about .670 generally) and they do jam quite often in the prophesy. I clean them but have never lubed them- so is that the reason they keep jamming? I am still hoping that whatever brand of re-balls they use at that field will be larger than my tac-balls.

[Drix]

It's rather important to find out what kind of reballs your field is using. Real reballs you're usually going to be ok, I would reccomend slipping some sleek into your feedneck and hopper tray to speed the balls along, breaking a paintball or two in there sounds sketchy. Real reballs work on most hoppers pretty well, I'd keep away from the rotor however. If you're using mighty balls you're going to experience more issues as they're softer and squish up. The best hopper for mighty balls is an eggy, you can do the same sleek lube trick if you want.

Most reball fields are 220, so you're going to want that lighter spring. And if you're emag is not center feed you might want to consider leaving it at home, those powerfeeds don't like reballs or mightyballs.

[om3n]

It's rather important to find out what kind of reballs your field is using. Real reballs you're usually going to be ok, I would reccomend slipping some sleek into your feedneck and hopper tray to speed the balls along, breaking a paintball or two in there sounds sketchy. Real reballs work on most hoppers pretty well, I'd keep away from the rotor however. If you're using mighty balls you're going to experience more issues as they're softer and squish up. The best hopper for mighty balls is an eggy, you can do the same sleek lube trick if you want.

Most reball fields are 220, so you're going to want that lighter spring. And if you're emag is not center feed you might want to consider leaving it at home, those powerfeeds don't like reballs or mightyballs.


Nope it's a center feed body. I will call later today to find out what sort of reballs they are, but what else would you guys suggest to lube the balls instead of sleek, because I don't have any? I have lots of gold cup, and the only other rubber-safe lube I have is some water proof silicon grease I use for my air-cannon :p

[Ando]

I DO THIS ALL THE TIME....there's nothing "sketchy" about it :rofl:

All your doing is lubing them so they glide off the walls of your feedneck and hopper internals. Reason you get jams is the balls stick to everything, including themselves. You can use your expensive oil if you like but it's going to be the same same.

As a mater of fact most of the manufactures tell you to lube them before using.

The balls will only have a lite film. They're not going to be all gooey and dripping with paint. If they are, put them in a towel and lightly roll them but you want a nice shine. Try it out on those reballs you have at your house, you said they jam all the time right? Bust a ball in the mix and try it again. Only thing I've seen this not work on are Q-Pod's (reballs don't work with them at all). Everything else I've tried besides a rotor has worked like a champ and there's no mess to clean. You'll have a film in the hopper but it's nothing you need to worry about. You can go right ahead and toss "real balls" in with no ill effects.

EDIT: PB Nation is good for something. :p
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2236590
http://www2.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3195736
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6495999779637590971#

[om3n]

I DO THIS ALL THE TIME....there's nothing "sketchy" about it :rofl:

All your doing is lubing them so they glide off the walls of your feedneck and hopper internals. Reason you get jams is the balls stick to everything, including themselves. You can use your expensive oil if you like but it's going to be the same same.

As a mater of fact most of the manufactures tell you to lube them before using.

The balls will only have a lite film. They're not going to be all gooey and dripping with paint. If they are, put them in a towel and lightly roll them but you want a nice shine. Try it out on those reballs you have at your house, you said they jam all the time right? Bust a ball in the mix and try it again. Only thing I've seen this not work on are Q-Pod's (reballs don't work with them at all). Everything else I've tried besides a rotor has worked like a champ and there's no mess to clean. You'll have a film in the hopper but it's nothing you need to worry about. You can go right ahead and toss "real balls" in with no ill effects.

EDIT: PB Nation is good for something. :p
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2236590
http://www2.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3195736
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6495999779637590971#


alright I'll try using paint later tonight when I take a break from homework! It just seems a bit odd honestly, but it's probably cheaper than the other options so why not :)

[om3n]

alright I'll try using paint later tonight when I take a break from homework! It just seems a bit odd honestly, but it's probably cheaper than the other options so why not :)



So with the dwell at 18 and the fix at 5, I could get the gun to cycle effortlessly at 25 cps, plenty fast for me. When I put paint through it though, it chopped 2x on about 50 balls. I think I need to re-tune the lvl 10 for this ROF :tard:

then I tried my ruballs after I cleaned and lubed a pod of them with some paint, and at 25 bps it would shoot for about 1 second before it would jam, but I could tell the lvl 10 was tripping up alot. If I just stopped shooting for a moment, it would shoot at 25 bps for another half second before it would jam up again. I'll bet at a slower rof it wouldn't jam... but I want to be able to shoot reballs really fast!! :cry:

[Drix]

I DO THIS ALL THE TIME....there's nothing "sketchy" about it :rofl:

All your doing is lubing them so they glide off the walls of your feedneck and hopper internals. Reason you get jams is the balls stick to everything, including themselves. You can use your expensive oil if you like but it's going to be the same same.

As a mater of fact most of the manufactures tell you to lube them before using.

The balls will only have a lite film. They're not going to be all gooey and dripping with paint. If they are, put them in a towel and lightly roll them but you want a nice shine. Try it out on those reballs you have at your house, you said they jam all the time right? Bust a ball in the mix and try it again. Only thing I've seen this not work on are Q-Pod's (reballs don't work with them at all). Everything else I've tried besides a rotor has worked like a champ and there's no mess to clean. You'll have a film in the hopper but it's nothing you need to worry about. You can go right ahead and toss "real balls" in with no ill effects.

We used to lube them as the manufacturer states at our field. What ended up happening is the little bit of lube would be injected into the ball by the force of the air being used to propel it. We swelled a stack of balls up to about .80+ before we figured out what was going on, they were so tight that they would not shoot down alot of barrels. We've found swelling the track and not the balls is a better alternative.

[athomas]

Drop the dwell to 15.

[cockerpunk]

My pinokio will feed reballs consistently at 25bps, but it has the P-board upgrade on it also. :D


no, no you dont.

pinokio doesn't even feed paint at close to 25 BPS.

[fishmishin]

no, no you dont.

pinokio doesn't even feed paint at close to 25 BPS.


Okay, well then I guess I am going to have to give it a run this weekend, and provide some footage. I am assuming you have already tested one with the new board, and I am only going on what my buddy told me. Sooo it's off to the proving grounds this weekend. I'll post my results sometime next week.

[om3n]

Drop the dwell to 15.

Alright I'll try this, but do you suggest it to stop the chopping? When I do the standard lvl 10 check (which means taking the valve out of the gun with the bolt still on it, turning it upside down and giving it a good shake, and if it takes a fairly hard shake to dislodge the bolt, you know the lvl ten is tuned properly) it seems like it's tuned properly.

Do you think i should try re-tuning it? It also does feel like the bolt is a bit strong...

[Ando]

We used to lube them as the manufacturer states at our field. What ended up happening is the little bit of lube would be injected into the ball by the force of the air being used to propel it. We swelled a stack of balls up to about .80+ before we figured out what was going on, they were so tight that they would not shoot down alot of barrels. We've found swelling the track and not the balls is a better alternative.

:confused: Reballs run small as hell, .670 (give or take) so whatever swelling you got should have put it right on. Depends on the crap the field has I guess. There's some stuff we used that just rolled out past our detents and down our barrels. I had to adj my detents to stop it and in doing so my lvl 10 blew both detents out. Went and replaced them a few weeks later with nice CP ones and blew those bastards out at Top Gun. BE and Goose can attest to that one...I was so pissed. $70 worth of detents down the drain. :mad:

I personally have never come across balls that ballooned like your saying, .130 is a lot. Whatever the field has your stuck with I guess. :rolleyes:


Alright I'll try this, but do you suggest it to stop the chopping? When I do the standard lvl 10 check (which means taking the valve out of the gun with the bolt still on it, turning it upside down and giving it a good shake, and if it takes a fairly hard shake to dislodge the bolt, you know the lvl ten is tuned properly) it seems like it's tuned properly.

Do you think i should try re-tuning it? It also does feel like the bolt is a bit strong...
Toss one of your longer springs in it. You might just have some brittle paint but what athomas said is spot on. Also, keep your DWELL at 15.

Edit: One last thing no one's talked about with reballs. When you're chronoing the marker. Just get it in the ball park. Your velocity is going to be all over the place. Reballs aren't consistent what so ever and your marker is going to shoot differently...You might be able to put 25 balls down range with normal paint but reballs are a different story. When you're out there, start off at 10 bps and work your way up till you hit your wall. Don't bother tuning the marker to reballs either, your just going to waste valuable play time and have to undo everything anyways.

[Drix]

:confused: Reballs run small as hell, .670 (give or take) so whatever swelling you got should have put it right on. Depends on the crap the field has I guess. There's some stuff we used that just rolled out past our detents and down our barrels. I had to adj my detents to stop it and in doing so my lvl 10 blew both detents out. Went and replaced them a few weeks later with nice CP ones and blew those bastards out at Top Gun. BE and Goose can attest to that one...I was so pissed. $70 worth of detents down the drain. :mad:

I personally have never come across balls that ballooned like your saying, .130 is a lot. Whatever the field has your stuck with I guess. :rolleyes:


You are right, reballs and the like are about .670 when they come. They can swell because the lubricant collects on the ball and when the force of air hits it the lube actually gets pushed into the ball. The origonal balls that swelled were the Mighty balls and although they've been replaced by a fresh set thanks to the manufacturer who was intrigued to learn about the problem a fair amount of our origonal set still kick around, I can get some pictures if you like. Other manufacturers may have different results and quirks about them but as said before, I'd avoid lubing the balls themselves- of course, if it's not your field who cares.

[bojangles1983]

You talk about chopping a ball or 2 when firing at high rates of speed, but you are going to be using reballs... so you wont be chopping those. At the most you will just have to wait a quick second for the lvl 10 to lock back again.

[om3n]

You talk about chopping a ball or 2 when firing at high rates of speed, but you are going to be using reballs... so you wont be chopping those. At the most you will just have to wait a quick second for the lvl 10 to lock back again.


Well today I re-adjusted the level ten anyways... it definitely needed it. It now feels like it did about a year ago, much stiffer. I'm all out of air though, too bad I don't have a method to FILL MY 4500 PSI AIR TANKS AT HOME just yet.. shame. I guess I'll have to wait till tomorrow to go to my local proshop to get a fill so I can keep messing around with mah gun :p

Just a side question... do you guys think I should go with a large bore or small bore barrel? I know that reballs and the like are generally much smaller than normal paint (my ru-balls are like .670-ish) but do you think it would be better to just stick with a small bore barrel, or go with a larger one? I have a .687, .688, and .691 (don't have the funds for a full kit). I've never done extensive testing, but do re-balls behave much like paintballs when it comes to bore-sizing? Logic would suggest that I go with my smallest barrel, but does anyone have a suggestion that is otherwise?

[athomas]

Find the biggest reball you are going to be using and size for that one just like it was a paintball.

[Drix]

Go with your smallest bore- With the size of reballs you're going to be way overboring anyway, unless your having problems with velocity. If you can't seem to keep a good 220 and have the marker cycle correctly with the small bore trade up for a bigger one which will let you run your valve at a higher pressure to compensate for the air pressure thats going to seep past the ball.

[om3n]

new sub-topic:

So my brother is coming to play reball as well, and he wants to bring his BT-4. He has a rip-clip on it, and I believe the rip-clip works in a very similar way as the halo. Anyways, I believe I have read before that the stock rip-clip can be damaged by reballs (something about the beads), but I don't remember where I read that and I was wondering if you guys had any insight.

here is a picture of what the rip-clip looks like... What do you guys think?
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii191/om3n07/RipClip.jpg

[Ando]

new sub-topic:

So my brother is coming to play reball as well, and he wants to bring his BT-4. He has a rip-clip on it, and I believe the rip-clip works in a very similar way as the halo. Anyways, I believe I have read before that the stock rip-clip can be damaged by reballs (something about the beads), but I don't remember where I read that and I was wondering if you guys had any insight.

here is a picture of what the rip-clip looks like... What do you guys think?
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii191/om3n07/RipClip.jpg
Tell him to get a mag :p

Not sure on the rip clip. Never seen one used for reball.

[om3n]

Tell him to get a mag :p



Oh believe me, I do all the time.

I will show him that, once again, the guys on the AO forums are full of wisdom :p He definitely needs a mag... and he would do it justice too.

[om3n]

anyone have any insight on the rip-clip or the halo with re-balls?