Retro valve sticking in body due to on-off pin?

[Jacobd]

I've got a Retro valve that after airing up you can't slide out of the body because the on-off pin is stuck too far down, after pulling the trigger of course.
I'm using a stock carbon fiber frame and a direct feed SS body, I tried a classic valve in the same setup and it had no problems so it must be the valve, the marker works fine and trigger rod adjustment looks right to me (not that I'm an expert though)
Any help is appreciated.

[Ando]

Hmm...Pulling the trigger should reset the on/off pin enough for you to pull the valve out. Try holding the trigger down when degassing the marker, that sometimes helps.

You can use just about anything (pin or allen key) to push the sear rod further in the frame and that will def reset the pin as well. How big of a gap do you have between the trigger and sear rod? Should have a a gap about the thickness of a credit card.

[Spider-TW]

If the trigger rod is set right and it still sticks you can do what I've done for my pneu-mag bodies.

Take a round needle file to the back inside edge of the hole in the body for the on/off pin. Cut small ramp that doesn't go all the way down. It doesn't show on the outside, but it will usually let you work a droopy pin out.

[Pullman]

Alternately you can just pull the frame off. It's not as nifty slick as undoing the the field strip bolt and having everything drop out the back, but it's only one more bolt. You may have an RTP length on/off in there which may poke out to far if you are using an AM/MM rail.

[flyingpootang]

Lengthen your trigger rod slightly. As long as you have a credit card thickness behind the trigger when aired up...

[Jacobd]

Thanks for the help guys I think the trigger rod looked right but I don't have any air to test with ATM, RTP means RT pro right? the gun the valve came off of had a hyperframe on it if that matters, pretty sure it's a stock RT on-off I have no idea about the pin though.

[RehKal]

I've got a Retro valve that after airing up you can't slide out of the body because the on-off pin is stuck too far down, after pulling the trigger of course.
I'm using a stock carbon fiber frame and a direct feed SS body, I tried a classic valve in the same setup and it had no problems so it must be the valve, the marker works fine and trigger rod adjustment looks right to me (not that I'm an expert though)
Any help is appreciated.

The pin on my emag does the same thing and the -only- way I can get the valve out is to take the body off the frame and use something to push it back inside. Quite annoying actually. Could new Orings correct such a problem?

[SkinnyHare]

i had the same problem with my first x-valve. even holding the trigger while degassing didn't fix the problem. for whatever reason, even after that procedure there was still a little pressure left in the valve, just enough to drive the on/off pin down and prevent the valve from coming out.

the more "broken in" my valve got the less it happened. i found just letting the marker sit for an hour or so after degassing seemed to fix the problem on its own. i guess that doesn't help you much for when you need to get the valve/bolt out right away though :tard:

[athomas]

For any trigger frame, emags included, if the trigger rod doesn't go back far enough, the on-off pin won't be far enough up in the valve to allow the pin to slide past the body. If this happens, hold the trigger forward and push the trigger rod in using your finger or a tool while pulling the valve out the back at the same time. Beware, that retro valves and X valves can hold air cause the on-off pin to be pushed out as soon as the body is no longer holding it in place. That means be prepared to catch the on-off pin when it exits the valve.