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View Full Version : Just picked up first MAG, a few questions..



Track89
02-26-2010, 04:58 PM
I picked this piece up for $180 shipped ( http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3326465 ) Lemme know what ya think, constructive criticism is always good.

-First mods i should look into
-benefits of the Diamond Labs aluminum Hurricane
-Best person/place to get x-valve/retro/lvl10 purchased and installed

Any other tips 'n tricks to help get me started would also be greatly appreciated!!

Dominic
02-26-2010, 05:48 PM
I picked this piece up for $180 shipped ( http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3326465 ) Lemme know what ya think, constructive criticism is always good.

-First mods i should look into
-benefits of the Diamond Labs aluminum Hurricane
-Best person/place to get x-valve/retro/lvl10 purchased and installed

Any other tips 'n tricks to help get me started would also be greatly appreciated!!
Looks like it is an original minimag valve with a different rear section. I do not know anything about the different rear section, I really do not think that any of them did anything more that the original. I would hook up some HPA, not C02, and shoot it first. Save some money buy some paint. But if you are really wanting to upgrade the only one that I think is needed is the lvl X bolt. The original valve is still a great valve, and I still use mine on my first mag. However, I do have an X valve on my other mag and it is a big step up, it is awesome. If you want the X-valve it comes with a lvl X bolt, and you can get them from AGD, Tunamart.com, and Themagsmith.com. If you go with an X-valve you can also get the ULE trigger kit which replaces your on/off assembly(not a trigger frame). For trigger frames I myself prefer the blade trigger on the intelliframe but that is just a matter of preferance. If you want that I would get the Inteliframe, it will bolt right on to your gun, and there are directions on the forums on how to link it to your hopper with some parts from Radio Shack. I would invest in a parts kit, so you have all the replacement o-rings, spring, and detent. If you go to far in to replacing parts you will end up with an entirely new marker that cost more than if you just got on AGD's store and bought a custom ULE. But like I said if you are going to keep the valve and body I would recommend the lvl X bolt.
Hope this helps and welcome to the family of Automags.

CatoRockwell
02-26-2010, 05:49 PM
Beautiful setup. Upgrades are all based off of what direction you want to go but I would at least get a new trigger frame & lvl 10 bolt.

Ideally:
xvalve
& emag lowers or pnuemag or ule depending on your preferences

Frizzle Fry
02-26-2010, 07:05 PM
Beautiful setup. Upgrades are all based off of what direction you want to go but I would at least get a new trigger frame & lvl 10 bolt.

Ideally:
xvalve
& emag lowers or pnuemag or ule depending on your preferences

Well, Emag lowers are out since Eclipse Kits are classic rails.

C_losjoker
02-26-2010, 07:11 PM
i would say since this is your first mag, go get into a few games before you start upgrading it. though you probably will need to get a new frame, i think most fields do not let you play with a cut trigger guard. thats what i have heard, thats because of the insurance that most fields carry.

Track89
02-26-2010, 08:17 PM
Awsome feedback, that was what i was lookin' for. So it looks like the frame will be first on the list(anyone got one layin' around.?) I'll wait 'n see how bad the chop's are and decide if the Lvl10 is necessary.

How hard are Mag's to clean after a chop??
Also what little part's should i look out for when dissembling it? (I'm great at loosing ****)

Sumthinwicked
02-26-2010, 08:33 PM
look up automag and tom kaye on youtube he has a 10 part video on mags that you should watch

CatoRockwell
02-26-2010, 09:35 PM
Also I would recommend having a valve kit in your tool box. I've never had my mags wear anything out, but I've bought several used and you should count on replacing some if not all of the orings.

Once you get it running you shouldn't have any problems.

Track89
02-26-2010, 09:41 PM
Video defiantly cleared a few points up. So the outstanding reliability isn't a myth i take it. Valves lasting 10+ years.

Ando
02-26-2010, 10:16 PM
Some people here still have their mags when they first came out. I still have my classic from 96.

JKR
02-27-2010, 06:09 AM
There is a guy who owns a small field near me that has had his Automag since 1993 or 1994 and still uses mostly original parts - including the valve. I believe he has replaced the bolt and sear due to wear, but everything else still works! AGD nows how to make a quality product. Welcome to the fold!

Konigballer
02-27-2010, 11:19 AM
I'm a sucker for Minimags with splash parts! Your Eclipse body rail, sight rail, foregrip & powerfeed plug scream oldschool-cool. Definately keepers.

From an aesthetic point of view I would do a few low cost things:

-I would buy a dust silver or chrome asa, a CP on/off preferably, to blend with everything else.

-Polish the Minimag body. You can do this yourself with 400, 600, & 1200 grade sandpaper from Ace hardware, and some Mothers Mag polish. Theres many how-to threads on the forum. Nothing beats a polished Minimag body, however it will collect fingerprints like you read about!

-Buy either a chrome intelli double finger triggerframe, or a chrome Benchmark single triggerframe for more of an old school look. Some fields may be iffy about you playing with a cut-off trigger guard. With .45 based frames, you have almost endless options for custom grip panels.

-Sell, or trade, your Hurricane valve for whatever you can get, and buy either a used numbers matching Minimag Valve, a Retro Valve, or an X-valve. Try to get one that already has a Lvl-10 bolt. All of these can be had here on the buyers forums for relatively cheap nowadays.

Congrats, that was an excellent Minimag catch! :cheers:

Track89
02-27-2010, 02:17 PM
I'm a sucker for Minimags with splash parts! Your Eclipse body rail, sight rail, foregrip & powerfeed plug scream oldschool-cool. Definately keepers.

From an aesthetic point of view I would do a few low cost things:

-I would buy a dust silver or chrome asa, a CP on/off preferably, to blend with everything else.

-Polish the Minimag body. You can do this yourself with 400, 600, & 1200 grade sandpaper from Ace hardware, and some Mothers Mag polish. Theres many how-to threads on the forum. Nothing beats a polished Minimag body, however it will collect fingerprints like you read about!

-Buy either a chrome intelli double finger triggerframe, or a chrome Benchmark single triggerframe for more of an old school look. Some fields may be iffy about you playing with a cut-off trigger guard. With .45 based frames, you have almost endless options for custom grip panels.

-Sell, or trade, your Hurricane valve for whatever you can get, and buy either a used numbers matching Minimag Valve, a Retro Valve, or an X-valve. Try to get one that already has a Lvl-10 bolt. All of these can be had here on the buyers forums for relatively cheap nowadays.

Congrats, that was an excellent Minimag catch! :cheers:

Lol thanx man, My Spyder and F8 might be up for sale soon to help support my new Mag addiction. There's just somethin' about 'em

Track89
02-28-2010, 02:24 PM
Can you put a center feed body on a mini mag?

VailSkibum
02-28-2010, 03:21 PM
For some ideas, and just to prove how darn cool 'Mags are, check out this thread:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5895&page=60&pp=30
This link takes you to page 60, most of the earlier pics are down. Just browse up through the pages.
Durability? Unsurpassed. Have my original Classic from '98. A splash of oil, (Mags love oil) gassed it up, and after roughly 5 years of being dormant, she ran like the day I put her away. :shooting: I even had to use CO2 that day! (side note: If you HAVE to run CO2, at least get a remote bottle set-up. A Plamers Stabilizer is better. Keeps the liquid CO2 from getting sucked into the internals and freezing them up. Think fire extinguisher.)
And yes, a centerfeed body will work on a MM. I suggest a ULE. Lighter, and you eliminate those silly elbows. Although, as someone stated earlier, a polished MM body with that splash kit would look pretty Old Skool Cool as well! :cool:
My suggestion... Get a Level 10 bolt, (you will never break paint once it's tuned), then an Intelliframe, maybe an R/T on/off... And then BUY ANOTHER 'MAG!! Two is always better than one! Just ask around here! :headbang:
Welcome aboard!
VSB

reckid1986
02-28-2010, 04:17 PM
yeah 2 is better than 1 leads to 4 is better than 2 then 8 is beter than 4. you get the idea, lol ive got 8-10 right now and im trying to get rid of some of them but its just to hard right now with so many aftermarket parts being available. just remember to always have fun. it never ends with mags. :shooting:

VailSkibum
02-28-2010, 11:10 PM
yeah 2 is better than 1 leads to 4 is better than 2 then 8 is beter than 4. you get the idea, lol ive got 8-10 right now and im trying to get rid of some of them but its just to hard right now with so many aftermarket parts being available. just remember to always have fun. it never ends with mags. :shooting:
I wonder how may people actually own only one 'Mag. I have 3 right now. The Trailer Queen, the Everyday, and the Parts/Loaner.

CatoRockwell
03-01-2010, 12:07 AM
I wonder how may people actually own only one 'Mag. I have 3 right now. The Trailer Queen, the Everyday, and the Parts/Loaner.

I'm on my 3rd year since I bought my first mag I own 3 myself and have bought 4 for other people to fuel my addiction using other people's money. :D

Track89
03-01-2010, 02:59 AM
I'm on my 3rd year since I bought my first mag I own 3 myself and have bought 4 for other people to fuel my addiction using other people's money. :D


Nice, Since you guy's are the know-it-all's of the AGD world when both the gun's get here in the next week i'll strip 'em

From the 2 im goin for one with all the goodies and the other a back up. Both have some unusual ish on 'em so we'll see what happens..

chafnerjr
03-01-2010, 07:43 AM
I wonder how may people actually own only one 'Mag. I have 3 right now. The Trailer Queen, the Everyday, and the Parts/Loaner.
My wife and I each only own one... generally we're broke (2 small children) so 2 $1k+ markers are enough for us.

Looks like you have the original splash gadget grip! Too bad you can't use the barrel plug. As for advice... take it out and play with it. Look through the picture threads and read a LOT. Pretty soon you'll know everything you want to do, and how to do it or who to buy it from. :cheers:

Track89
03-01-2010, 09:54 AM
My wife and I each only own one... generally we're broke (2 small children) so 2 $1k+ markers are enough for us.

Looks like you have the original splash gadget grip! Too bad you can't use the barrel plug. As for advice... take it out and play with it. Look through the picture threads and read a LOT. Pretty soon you'll know everything you want to do, and how to do it or who to buy it from. :cheers:


Is the barrel plug missing from the grip??

211
03-01-2010, 10:11 AM
some fields dont allow barrel plugs anymore, barrel condoms only

CatoRockwell
03-01-2010, 11:08 AM
Nice, Since you guy's are the know-it-all's of the AGD world when both the gun's get here in the next week i'll strip 'em

From the 2 im goin for one with all the goodies and the other a back up. Both have some unusual ish on 'em so we'll see what happens..

By no means am I an expert. I post stupid questions here on how to fix some project mag all the time, I am getting a lot better about troubleshooting and repair though.

By the way, welcome to your newest addiction :cheers:

Konigballer
03-01-2010, 07:33 PM
Your mag doesn't have a 'gadget grip' foregrip, with the detachable pf plug. That was an SP product for their mags and splash parts kits. Yours has an Eclipse splash kit, which had a solid, and better looking, foregrip. The body rail is also cooler than the SP splash rail, cause the eclipse one has cool milling.

Track89
03-02-2010, 01:05 AM
Your mag doesn't have a 'gadget grip' foregrip, with the detachable pf plug. That was an SP product for their mags and splash parts kits. Yours has an Eclipse splash kit, which had a solid, and better looking, foregrip. The body rail is also cooler than the SP splash rail, cause the eclipse one has cool milling.

I'll bet you a dollar it doe's...

Frizzle Fry
03-02-2010, 06:05 AM
Your mag doesn't have a 'gadget grip' foregrip, with the detachable pf plug. That was an SP product for their mags and splash parts kits. Yours has an Eclipse splash kit, which had a solid, and better looking, foregrip. The body rail is also cooler than the SP splash rail, cause the eclipse one has cool milling.

A) Smart Parts did not invent the "gadget grip" they only claim to have done so. It was called a gadget grip before they ever made one.

B) My Eclipse kit has one, with matching plug, as does the Eclipse kit pictured.

Ravenneon
03-02-2010, 07:18 AM
If you plan to use it right away, I'd look into a new frame with a trigger guard. I've run into the problem where some fields won't let you use it without one due to the fact it has a greater chance of accidentally getting hungup and pulled. Intelli frames are nice. I have one on the TacOne. I did the intelli feed mod for the warp feed(also a nice setup).

With a mag the possibilties are endless.

Konigballer
03-02-2010, 05:36 PM
A) Smart Parts did not invent the "gadget grip" they only claim to have done so. It was called a gadget grip before they ever made one.

B) My Eclipse kit has one, with matching plug, as does the Eclipse kit pictured.

Ok, so the Eclipse splash kit foregrip came with a detachable pbarrel plug on the end like the SP Gadget Grip had?
Learn something new every day. :cool:

Track89
03-02-2010, 08:35 PM
If you plan to use it right away, I'd look into a new frame with a trigger guard. I've run into the problem where some fields won't let you use it without one due to the fact it has a greater chance of accidentally getting hungup and pulled. Intelli frames are nice. I have one on the TacOne. I did the intelli feed mod for the warp feed(also a nice setup).

With a mag the possibilties are endless.

Do the intelli frame's bump up the bps?? I picked up a second one also(yeh i know i didnt even get the first one yet and look what's happening haha) and it has a green Benchmark on it.

How does the Bench. hold up against the intelli??

Track89
03-03-2010, 01:19 AM
What metal is the MM body made out of?? Stainless, copper, gold etc..

Frizzle Fry
03-03-2010, 01:25 AM
What metal is the MM body made out of?? Stainless, copper, gold etc..

Stainless steel.

Twistlock bodies are SS, and came from the factory polished, bead blasted gray, teflon black, and a couple gold-plated.

Plenty of people have Krylon'ed, powedercoated, ceracoted, and otherwise plated/painted bodies though.

CatoRockwell
03-03-2010, 01:36 AM
the frame doesn't affect the bps. It's all about personal preference but I personally prefer the Intelli.

Jacobd
03-03-2010, 01:37 AM
Do the intelli frame's bump up the bps?? I picked up a second one also(yeh i know i didnt even get the first one yet and look what's happening haha) and it has a green Benchmark on it.

How does the Bench. hold up against the intelli??

No, an Intelliframe is just a good solid two-finger trigger made by AGD, often though they are modded to make a "Pneumag" which makes the trigger pull very soft and easy to walk, as far as I know Benchmarks change the trigger geometry to make the pull kind of "long and smooth" rather then "short and crisp" some people like'em some don't, I've never tried one.

Do AGD black teflon bodys actually have anything to do with teflon? I've wondered that for a while.

Track89
03-03-2010, 03:35 AM
Stainless steel.

Twistlock bodies are SS, and came from the factory polished, bead blasted gray, teflon black, and a couple gold-plated.

Plenty of people have Krylon'ed, powedercoated, ceracoted, and otherwise plated/painted bodies though.


Has anyone ever tried to rust out the body?? Not tryin' too destroy it but am curious to see what it would look like w/ the rite part's

Dominic
03-03-2010, 10:15 AM
Has anyone ever tried to rust out the body?? Not tryin' too destroy it but am curious to see what it would look like w/ the rite part's
First the AGD Intellifeed can only help BPS if you learn how to shoot it right, I myself prefer it over the single trigger, and Benchmark. The bodies are made of Stainless steel or Aluminum, they do not rust. If you have original stainless bodies you need the twist lock barrels, almost all others take cocker threaded barrels to my knowledge. :rofl: You have already bought another mag? Do you have any pictures to post of it? They are too much fun to play around with, but you will find that once you get one configured the way you want you should never "need" a back up marker. My original Automag from 1994 still works great and I am the 2nd owner. They are built like tanks. My suggestion to you is save some money and go play first. :shooting:

CatoRockwell
03-03-2010, 11:00 AM
First the AGD Intellifeed can only help BPS if you learn how to shoot it right, I myself prefer it over the single trigger, and Benchmark. The bodies are made of Stainless steel or Aluminum, they do not rust. If you have original stainless bodies you need the twist lock barrels, almost all others take cocker threaded barrels to my knowledge. :rofl: You have already bought another mag? Do you have any pictures to post of it? They are too much fun to play around with, but you will find that once you get one configured the way you want you should never "need" a back up marker. My original Automag from 1994 still works great and I am the 2nd owner. They are built like tanks. My suggestion to you is save some money and go play first. :shooting:

I know, my E-Tac never went down, but I still built a backup mag... too addictive. I want more.

Track89
03-03-2010, 02:52 PM
First the AGD Intellifeed can only help BPS if you learn how to shoot it right, I myself prefer it over the single trigger, and Benchmark. The bodies are made of Stainless steel or Aluminum, they do not rust. If you have original stainless bodies you need the twist lock barrels, almost all others take cocker threaded barrels to my knowledge. :rofl: You have already bought another mag? Do you have any pictures to post of it? They are too much fun to play around with, but you will find that once you get one configured the way you want you should never "need" a back up marker. My original Automag from 1994 still works great and I am the 2nd owner. They are built like tanks. My suggestion to you is save some money and go play first. :shooting:

Yeh, the second was a deal i couldnt pass up $100 shipped w/ benchmark, trigg, lvl10 'n a few other goodie's.. But the OP deleted the thread which i was a little sketched out about.

Frizzle Fry
03-03-2010, 03:09 PM
Has anyone ever tried to rust out the body?? Not tryin' too destroy it but am curious to see what it would look like w/ the rite part's

Well, you could practice on a destroyed body; they don't die on their own, but plenty of people have intentionally ripped off feednecks with projects in mind then abandoned them.

My friend has a case-hardened MM body?

Track89
03-03-2010, 09:30 PM
So i get the Splashed Mini and of course air it up rite away.LEAKING out the barrel like no other haha. Not worried but was told it was in %100 working condition. What could it be..

I'm having issues with the pic's, keep's saying invalid file type.. go figure

CatoRockwell
03-03-2010, 09:41 PM
create an account on something like Photobucket. Then when you've uploaded your pictures on their site, go to the "Get Link Code" option and pick the one for forums.

Frizzle Fry
03-03-2010, 09:42 PM
So i get the Splashed Mini and of course air it up rite away.LEAKING out the barrel like no other haha. Not worried but was told it was in %100 working condition. What could it be..

Here's the trio as of today, still waitin' on second Mag to arrive.

How do i enter pic's?!

For pics, try Tinypic.com or Imageshack.com and use the "forum" code.

As for the leak, give a generous squirt of Autolube/Gold Cup/Extreme Rage oil into the ASA, and put a drop in the lube point on the valve. Then gas up the marker with the trigger held down, and take a few shots... It won't necessarily cure your problem but I've found that it takes care of plenty of things that might appear to be bigger problems.

Track89
03-03-2010, 10:50 PM
For pics, try Tinypic.com or Imageshack.com and use the "forum" code.

As for the leak, give a generous squirt of Autolube/Gold Cup/Extreme Rage oil into the ASA, and put a drop in the lube point on the valve. Then gas up the marker with the trigger held down, and take a few shots... It won't necessarily cure your problem but I've found that it takes care of plenty of things that might appear to be bigger problems.

Will do, but the gun from head-to-toe was oiled up prior to shipping. Almost slipped out of my hands when i took it out the box..

He said the powertube 'ring was replaced and it could be the on/off is stuck.

http://img532.imageshack.us/i/dsc01615c.jpg/

Track89
03-03-2010, 11:22 PM
http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/4038/dsc01615c.th.jpg (http://img532.imageshack.us/i/dsc01615c.jpg/)

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/3488/150r.th.jpg (http://img192.imageshack.us/i/150r.jpg/)

Track89
03-04-2010, 02:59 AM
Do mag's need a certain amout of pressure from the tank to fire correctly??
It was the velocity that was causing it to leak from the barrel but now it wont fire! The trigger is aired up but when pulled nothing at all happen's.


Still a noob to mag's but i'm learning more from your help day-by-day

211
03-04-2010, 10:19 AM
Mags need 800 psi + to work properly

ProblemKinder
03-09-2010, 05:08 AM
Awsome feedback, that was what i was lookin' for. So it looks like the frame will be first on the list(anyone got one layin' around.?) I'll wait 'n see how bad the chop's are and decide if the Lvl10 is necessary.

How hard are Mag's to clean after a chop??
Also what little part's should i look out for when dissembling it? (I'm great at loosing ****)

search for a Y-Grip.

http://www.angelfire.com/anime/anime1084/paintball/thumbnails/600x450/motm2.JPG

my RT is really easy to clean after a chop. there's only two screws holding the whole thing together and the body is an empty tube more or less.

when taking the valve out you might drop the spring but that's a big part you wont lose it. theres nothing really I can think of you have to worry about, besides the screws. I drop screws like it's my job (thank God I'm not an electrician anymore).

chafnerjr
03-09-2010, 08:31 PM
You should look to the tuning videos on the mainpage of this forum. It will explain EVERYTHING you'll need to know to get your marker setup from whatever state of cosmic mis-alignment it may be under...

P.S. Once you tune your lvl10 you'll never chop a ball as long as your paint isn't egg shell thin! Perhaps a barrel break.... perhaps one broken in your hopper but NONE by the bolt.
:cheers:

Track89
03-09-2010, 09:13 PM
search for a Y-Grip.

http://www.angelfire.com/anime/anime1084/paintball/thumbnails/600x450/motm2.JPG

my RT is really easy to clean after a chop. there's only two screws holding the whole thing together and the body is an empty tube more or less.

when taking the valve out you might drop the spring but that's a big part you wont lose it. theres nothing really I can think of you have to worry about, besides the screws. I drop screws like it's my job (thank God I'm not an electrician anymore).

Love the Y, like i mentioned earlier in another post i got 1 working Mag out of the 2 busted one's. The lvl10 was working it's all day not one chop even with short stroking it a few time's.

The second one is still in the work's, i think the problem is in the on/off.. its missing the little brass piece that goes under the on/off

Ando
03-09-2010, 09:51 PM
If you can't find the on/off top around here. This is the cheapest one on the Bay. I don't like dealing with this guy but :rolleyes: do what you have to do.
http://cgi.ebay.com/AUTOMAG-MINIMAG-X-FLOW-Paintball-Gun-On-Off-MAG-VALVE_W0QQitemZ390018494764QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_D efaultDomain_0?hash=item5acee9f12c