e/x-mag trigger help

[kwood]

so iv been getting my xmag all tuned up to my preferences
you know, adjusting the trigger pull, etc.
well i noticed that my marker wont work in mech mode
i knew this going into the purchase because it has a fireblade which usually requires some trigger rod adjustment to get mech mode to work

well i noticed that my trigger rod doesnt even stick out of the hole in the frame (see pic below)
so i wanted to adjust this but the thing wont budge
iv tried turning it by hand...
heating it up with a lit match, then turning it by hand...
taking pliers (with rubber over the teeth to protect from damage) and no luck either...

anyone have any suggestions?

also another issue i noticed is that occasionally the marker will "run away"
is there a possibility that my on/off pin was shaved by one of its previous owners, and this may be causing the run-away and the trigger rod length issue?

http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq251/wood_rocket_86/IMG_0320.jpg

[kwood]

just measured my on/off pin length and it looks like it is 11/16 in long

[kcombs9]

is there a lot of extra threads on the mech rod? the Emag sear rod for m mode is much longer then a RT rod. maybe it was switched. if its the RT rod you will have a hard time getting it long enough to work.

[kwood]

is there a lot of extra threads on the mech rod? the Emag sear rod for m mode is much longer then a RT rod. maybe it was switched. if its the RT rod you will have a hard time getting it long enough to work.

it might have because i put it next to another sear of mine and they looked like the same length

[kcombs9]

RT vs Emag/Xmag rod

<a href="Picture URL Here"><img src="http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm247/combslbcm/0305001640.jpg" width="600" height="450"></img></a>

<a href="Picture URL Here"><img src="http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm247/combslbcm/0305001639.jpg" width="600" height="450"></img></a>

and http://automags.org/forums/showpost.php?p=640476&postcount=1

Emag rod has much more for threads. I tried to use a RT one but it had so few threads it would not stay in place.

[athomas]

Full auto is probably the solenoid triggering the HES when the magnetic field collapses. Reversing the solenoid wires usually helps if this hasn't already been done on this emag. Some firmware versions were more prone to full auto than others. The X-mod firmware is good because you can tune the sample period so that the HES doesn't sample during the release of the solenoid.

The Fireblade definately needs the trigger rod lengthened. I had the same fireblade trigger in mine. It works well once it is properly tuned. When the sear is removed, adjust the length of the solenoid plunger so that it is at the proper spec as well.

[kwood]

thanks for the tips guys i will have to get on that tomorrow when i have some fiddlin' time

my X-mag has AGD 4.01 software (i believe since the boot up screen is custom)
so i wonder if that might be another cause for the random full auto...

[athomas]

The 4.01 firmware can still have full auto, especially if the solenoid wires are backwards. Shot buffering in the software captures the trigger collapsing magnetic field of the solenoid as if it is a trigger activation.

[kwood]

The 4.01 firmware can still have full auto, especially if the solenoid wires are backwards. Shot buffering in the software captures the trigger collapsing magnetic field of the solenoid as if it is a trigger activation.


ok, iv got my panels off no and it looks like the noid wires are soldered to the board
im no stranger to soldering im just hesitant since mistakes to boards are not easy fixes these days
are those the two wires i need to switch?
they are both white

[kwood]

while playing around
i have also developed a leak down the barrel that is very small
i will pull the trigger and it will fire and occasionally the pin will not reset
thought it does not do this in e-mode, it will still have that small leak down the barrel
is this a carrier issue?

[kcombs9]

it still leaks if you HOLD the trigger down in M-mode?

If no leaks then yes its the front part of the valve (power tube/lvl x)

If it still leaks its the black half of the valve

[kwood]

it still leaks if you HOLD the trigger down in M-mode?

If no leaks then yes its the front part of the valve (power tube/lvl x)

If it still leaks its the black half of the valve


i tried a few times but didnt listen for that specifically because i was distracted
the gun would occasionally go reactive (using a crossy hp 68/45)

[kcombs9]

i tried a few times but didnt listen for that specifically because i was distracted
the gun would occasionally go reactive (using a crossy hp 68/45)


well if it was me here are a few things I would try.

get the valve working in another marker. even if its just a intel frame with random RT rail and SS body. not sure if you can use the Emag on/off pin so switch that to be sure. Make sure there is No question of the valve being functional

if the valve passes check your sear assembly and get it working in M-mode then E-mode.

if the valve still fails to work in another marker set up. swap out the on/off pin or assembly. try another lvl x assembly if possible. check your power tube make sure its not damaged. clean and rebuild if necessary the reg portion of the valve.

whats the marker chrono at when it does fire?

[kcombs9]

I have a spare stock Emag trigger if you want to try that too.

[Ando]

I think you either raise the DWELL or FIX to cure the full auto problem. Download the XMod instruction manual. It tells there what to do.

[kwood]

I have a spare stock Emag trigger if you want to try that too.

i finally got the trigger rod adjusted with the help of the soldering iron
i measured out the length according to the AGD tolerances thread
later in the week, ill try tearing down the valve and throwing it in another marker to see how that goes

[athomas]

ok, iv got my panels off no and it looks like the noid wires are soldered to the board
im no stranger to soldering im just hesitant since mistakes to boards are not easy fixes these days
are those the two wires i need to switch?
they are both whiteIf you are apprehensive about soldering around the board, cut the wires in the middle. Skin them back and switch them. The polarity may already be correct. You won't know until you change them. The problem either goes away or gets worst.

[kwood]

well if it was me here are a few things I would try.

get the valve working in another marker. even if its just a intel frame with random RT rail and SS body. not sure if you can use the Emag on/off pin so switch that to be sure. Make sure there is No question of the valve being functional

if the valve passes check your sear assembly and get it working in M-mode then E-mode.

if the valve still fails to work in another marker set up. swap out the on/off pin or assembly. try another lvl x assembly if possible. check your power tube make sure its not damaged. clean and rebuild if necessary the reg portion of the valve.

whats the marker chrono at when it does fire?


ok
i tried my valve on another marker and it worked fine
i tried it in mech mode on my xmag and it RT'ed like crazy with a crossy 850psi reg and 1200 left in the tank
is my on/off pin or assembly the problem?

[kwood]

my pin length is 11/16 in long
any help on this one guys?

[athomas]

If it works properly in another gun, then the valve is probably ok. The pin should be .712" long which would be closer to 23/32" long. You probably wouldn't be able to measure it properly without a pair of calipers.

If it RTs a lot in the X-mag body, then perhaps the sear is worn at the tip. If there is any rounding at the tip, it will make the valve much more reactive.

[kwood]

If it works properly in another gun, then the valve is probably ok. The pin should be .712" long which would be closer to 23/32" long. You probably wouldn't be able to measure it properly without a pair of calipers.

If it RTs a lot in the X-mag body, then perhaps the sear is worn at the tip. If there is any rounding at the tip, it will make the valve much more reactive.


it looks fine to me but let me know what you think

http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq251/wood_rocket_86/IMG_0356.jpg
http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq251/wood_rocket_86/IMG_0355.jpg

[athomas]

Wrong end. The tip that catches the bolt is the important part.

[kwood]

Wrong end. The tip that catches the bolt is the important part.

it looks good to me as well

http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq251/wood_rocket_86/IMG_0358.jpg

http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq251/wood_rocket_86/IMG_0357.jpg

[athomas]

It is hard to tell in those pics. It looks like it might be a bit rounded at the point. Overall, other than a tiny bit of wear, it looks good.

[kwood]

I'm going to get my hands in a set of calipers and measure my on/off pin exactly to try and rule that out

[Ando]

If your by one.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93293

[kwood]

If your by one.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93293

ill look into that
thanks :cheers: