ULT Valve Machining, aftermarket trigger questions

[Don-F]

I got an Automag in trade yesterday. It’s a Ule Rtp with a Intelli frame.
It has some problems, doesnt shoot that well, and is missing some parts. All mostly related to TLC = nothing too bad.
I want to improve a few areas while it’s apart for cleaning and new seals.

There are a few areas that are a little fuzzy though.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=96538&page=12&pp=30
In this thread it really doesn’t answer the compatibility question even the last post leaves a guy hanging. I did find a much better explanation for ULT compatibility here! http://www.automagsuk.com/classicandrt.html

So my RTP valve needs machine work to fit as it is only machined for one o-ring
http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/ult.shtml recommends a dead web link for machining.

Anyone else currently recommended that providing that service and gets parts in and out in a reasonable time frame?

I dislike the stock double trigger a lot! I found this, the shape and the stops are just what I was looking for, but it looks like they are no longer made.
http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/4791/

Any other company currently offering something similar?

The stainless air hose is really tearing up the detent, and just starting on the edge of the rail. Are there other softer options?

[snoopay700]

I don't want to say he does it for sure because i don' know, but i think tuna might do it. I could definitely be wrong about that though.

[athomas]

Put some heat shrink over the stainless hose to protect the aluminum body and detents. Another thing you might want to consider is using a gas-through forgrip and route your air lines through it so your lines are shorter and take a different path to the valve.

I think there are a few here on AO that do the 2 oring on-off machining.

[Ando]

You can get your valve drilled for ULT here.
http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0004.htm

Some valves need modifying but most can use a ULT.

As for the trigger. You can find those running around here. Just have to wait till a BST comes up. If you don't want to wait. Tuna has a few blades he's selling.
http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=248020

[Don-F]

Thank you for the information.
Another question when I was firing it the tigger was very hard and very slow. 6 bps if I was lucky probably more like 4! I dont need or want a machine gun, but 10 bps would be nice!

I read though a bunch of stuff on the internet and one thing wrong was my tank at 650psi - I will set it up as its adjustable (ninja). I took the grip off and pulled the rod back away from the trigger. There seems to be a lot of gap here. I see its threaded. I looked in the rt manual and it gives no spec for gap? I just ordered a book called the "Automag RT Survival Guide". Will that have the basic setup info I'm looking for?

[Hobbez]

you should be just able to slip a credit card between the trigger and the rod. Thats the rule of thumb.

[Ando]

Get a pair of vice grips and put enough tape on the teeth so they don't protrude through it, clamp down and lengthen it. It's going to be hard but it will turn.

[Don-F]

Ok, Thank you :) the picture was taken unpressurized. I set the trigger up with a small gap when pressurized. That actually made the gap bigger, not smaller when unpressurized but at least I know its right. Out of air, will get some more soon and continue learning curve. I pmed Tunaman too - hopefully he can sell me a better trigger.

[pump]

i like having just enough pin length so i can push the on off pin down fully to take out the valve

[athomas]

Put the safety on. Hold the trigger. Adjust the trigger rod so that it almost touches the back of the trigger (usually about a credit card thickness). That should work in all instances.

[jrod]

Can you take a picture of your valve (where the on/off goes). You should be able to use the ULT as is. I don't think you need to mod your valve.

[Don-F]

Can you take a picture of your valve (where the on/off goes). You should be able to use the ULT as is. I don't think you need to mod your valve.
It has the step in the bottom where the on/off sits = not the dual oring - If you need a picture you can go to the link above -> http://www.automagsuk.com/classicandrt.html
I have been getting a lot of pms to just leave what I have there (Rt valve Rt on/off). I appreciate all the advice! :hail:
I dont want the 20bps machine gun stuff - I would be happy if I could get my RT to shoot like this RT though!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UvtmlhjwDg

[Don-F]

Oh and the "Automag R/T survival guide" If your new to AGD dont waste your money in it! I thought it would have detailed setup info saving me from asking stupid questions. It ended up being nothing more than a information type article that I could have "survived" without just fine. The free pdf owners manual has more setup information.

[pump]

pretty funny what people pawn off as good information

[Don-F]

Ok more questions time... :clap:
The Tunaman trigger went in really good and there is less side to side slop than my Agd one.
I adjusted the trigger stops by using the tips I found here. The top stop really doesnt do much, but it took a hair of slop out. I did the credit card thickness, with the saftey on- to set the rod gap and that seems to work well. I found that the lower trigger stop if I set it at all the on/off pin doesnt get pushed far enough in and will catch on the body if I try to remove the valve now. This lower stop is not set tight, the trigger will travel past the point of firing by a bunch but that last little bit of travel that it does cut out makes it trouble some to remove the valve. This seems to be the trade off for taking out that last bit of travel?

The trigger feel wise is much better, but the force required to pull it is still as stiff as ever. I just have it on a 650 psi tank for a few tests and adjusting (the 900 is empty) I can feel the rod pushing the trigger back once its fired though even on the 650 tank. I read here that as the tank pressure goes up the trigger gets even stiffer but the RT effect is stronger? If so I think I will look into the ULT on off and the required machining for sure. I want a lighter trigger pull not a stiffer one.

[pump]

This lower stop is not set tight, the trigger will travel past the point of firing by a bunch but that last little bit of travel that it does cut out makes it trouble some to remove the valve. This seems to be the trade off for taking out that last bit of travel?
yes

[athomas]

The trigger feel wise is much better, but the force required to pull it is still as stiff as ever. I just have it on a 650 psi tank for a few tests and adjusting (the 900 is empty) I can feel the rod pushing the trigger back once its fired though even on the 650 tank. I read here that as the tank pressure goes up the trigger gets even stiffer but the RT effect is stronger? If so I think I will look into the ULT on off and the required machining for sure. I want a lighter trigger pull not a stiffer one.The trigger return force is affected by the pressure output of the tank, but the trigger pull force is only affected by the chamber pressure. The chamber pressure is constant, no matter what tank you are using. The ULT has a 4X lighter trigger pull than the standard RT on-off.

[xero28]

Go here for more information on the RT effect.

http://zakvetter.com/pages/paintballs/automag_info/rapidfire/how-to-rapidfire.html

[Bigwooly1013]

if you want a super light trigger pull and to be able to achieve high rates of fire a pneumag mod might suit your needs. AS for the stops making it hard to remove the valve. I always just used a small allen wrench to push the trigger rod in far enough to reset the on/off when i was trying to break mine down. The limited trigger travel is definitely worth the trade off.

Also welcome to the addiction.

[Don-F]

Thank you for the tips! :D