Level 10 Air leak Question

[Karpet]

Quick question regarding my Classic Automag, that I just upgraded with Level 10.

I have just gotten back into paintball and I am updating my Automag which is about 15 years old. I have replaced all O-rings and teflon rings. I installed the Level 10 (tks for that youtube video whoever posted that) and now when I pressurize the gun with CO2, I constantly tear the tank o-ring and have massive leaks. I bought a HPA tank and did not tear the o-ring, and the gun fired fine with no barrel. When I put in the barrel, there is a small leak down the barrel, and the gun will not fire. When I removed the barrel and put pressure on the bolt, I can hear that leak. I tried adding and removing the small ring spacers, but no help.

Is the bore of the barrel too narrow for the bolt? (when removing the bolt, it does fit within the barrel) Will I also need an upgraded barrel to match the Level 10? Is this a problem with the main spring?

Thanks for the help, im at a loss right now.

[Karpet]

One more question. Does AGD still offer that credit for upgrading the classic automag powertube for the Retro? Im not sure if I have the terms correct. Thanks.

[athomas]

AGD no longer offers the trade-in program to my knowledge.

Tearing the orings while putting the CO2 tank into the ASA is sometimes the result of tipping the gun forward while screwing the tank in. If the pin allows liquid CO2 into the ASA before the oring seals, the extra pressure will dislodge and tear the oring. Try installing the tank while the gun and tank is pointed up.

When tuning a level 10 bolt or when diagnosing a leak, always remove the shims first. They can only cause false leaks and don't affect the actual operation of the bolt. Shims only affect how far the bolt needs to travel before it can vent air and reset. Even without shims, it is never a problem.

A leak that is caused by putting a barrel into the gun, is usually caused when the twist lock assembly pushes the barrel off center. This can happen if the barrel orings are loose, or the barrel oring grooves are too deep, or the barrel is slightly undersized on the outside diameter. To fix the problem, you can put a wrap or two of tape around the outside of your barrel close to each of the oring grooves. This will tighten the barrel and help keep it centered.

[Karpet]

Thanks a lot for the response. Ill try the tape recommendation when I get an chance. But is it normal that when you apply pressure with you finger to the front of the bolt (sticking your finger down the barrelless end of the gun to push the bolt), to have that small leak?

[athomas]

Causing a leak while pushing on the bolt is another indicator in the symptoms that can help diagnose. It indicates that the carrier oring is barely sealing the bolt stem. Any external pressure is changing the orientation of the seal and causing an opening. That would indicate that it may need a tighter carrier.

[Karpet]

Thanks for the advice. I changed the carrier to the smaller one, and now the external pressure on the bolt no longer causes the leak.

However, I tried to put a ring of electrical tape on the barrel, and it was too tight to fit. When I tried regular scotch tape, it fit, tore up a spot on the tape, and the bolt still could not fire. When i just unlocked the barrel (twisting it, but not pulling it out any) the bolt still could not fire. When I unlocked the barrel and pulled it out a 1/2 inch, the bolt fired, but stopped due to obstruction of the barrel. I will try to find my original crown tip barrel that came with the gun to see if that works. But in your opinion, is my current barrel a no-go with the level 10 bolt (I never had problems with this barrel with the other regular bolts)?

Thanks in advance.

[Karpet]

If I do need a new barrel, what barrels would be recommended for a classic Automag from the early 1990s. And would you happen to know approximate price ranges?? Hmmm I guess I could just google some barrels. Thanks again.

[athomas]

It sounds like there isn't much room for movement of your barrel in the body. That's a good thing. Check your nubbin. Is it metal of plastic? If it is metal, is it bent and possibly causing the bolt to fetch up.

[Karpet]

Well it used to be the metal wire, however with the new upgraded kits i got, it is now plastic. This is the first time ive used the plastic one. Bit it seems the bolt isnt reaching the nubbin. It doesnt seem to be able to move beyond the entrance of the barrel. Thanks again.

[Aslan]

What kind of barrel is it?

I've had this issue with my Automag and Minimag when using SS (stainless steel) barrels. I'm not sure why, but when I put them on, they seem to fit fine...but the gun won't fire or fires once then jams. I take them off, gun dry fires fine with no leaks.

I've given up on the SS barrels and just use some of the others from my barrel collection. I like Dye Alluminum barrels...they seem to work best with my guns and paint...but 32 degrees work well, SP All-Americans work fine, SP teardrop, J&J Ceramic, or even the stock RT barrel...all work fine.

[Karpet]

Thanks for the post, and that is interesting. The barrel that I have been using is SS, but I dont recall the brand, its been a while, and there is no name stamp or sticker. I still have to try to dig up the old stock crown tip barrel that the gun came with some 15-20 years ago. I think its aluminum, and ill see if that one works.

Also I was reading that there may be some sort of adapter for the automag to accept autococker barrels? Does anyone know the name of these items and if it can go on a classic automag? Thanks for the advice.

I just found the 32 degrees 14" barrel is only $29, not bad.