Galactic Z Help!

[winddancer]

I have a Galactic Z Body but the rubber nubbin is missing. I'd appreciate it if someone who owns one could send me a photo of the nubbin, so I can find a substitute, or if anyone can tell me where I can buy an original. My email is masterworks@frontiernet.net Thanks!!! Jon

[Smoothice]

Pm devilman. He knows how to make a new one and can give you instructions.

[DevilMan]

hehehee..... I'll send ya a pm in in a bit man...

I just got in from work and am tired... will do it in a few for ya...

DM

[maniacmechanic]

hehehee..... I'll send ya a pm in in a bit man...

I just got in from work and am tired... will do it in a few for ya...

DM

you work ?? i thought you were a crosscountry bum :rolleyes: :rofl:
how ya been , what part of the world you in now ??
BTW ; I changed the sig

[DevilMan]

you work ?? i thought you were a crosscountry bum :rolleyes: :rofl:
how ya been , what part of the world you in now ??
BTW ; I changed the sig

heheehehee.. worked at my cuz'n's cafe here in town. He was running short handed so I pitched in and did some cookin and what not... Got free meals and pay as well...

:P

DM

[Ando]

I tried just about everything for those nubbins. Never could get one to hold up for more then a day worth of games. Best thing that worked for me was high temp RTV. Tried other RTV's but they would wear out too quickly. I would like to find some ballistic jell since that's what the original nubbins feel and look like they're made out of. I have about 2-4 days of games on the one I made with the high temp RTV.

[DevilMan]

yup... that's what I used as well Ando...

Not sure if I told you or not, as I can't remember that far back...

Anywho... I'm still tired, but it's not super hard.

get some black high temp RTV from autozone, walmart, advance autoparts, checkers, kragen, bumper to bumper, napa, etc...

Get you a small piece of plastic and cut it to the size of the hole that goes into the breech. You will notice the spot for the nubbin is stepped. The hole into the breech is smaller than the hole up top. Cut a small piece of plastic to smaller than the size of the smallest hole. It's not overly exact, but you are wanting to give the screw something more solid to press into to push the nubbin into the breech.

Put a piece of tape of some kind on the inside of the breech. this is to give you a way to press the RTV into the hole and not worry about you running into the breech. You can use tape, or anything else as long as you know that the hole is sealed well.

Fill the pocket with the RTV to mostly full. While it's still very wet, push the piece of plastic into the RTV to where it is flush with the top of the cavity. Remember the rest of the parts have to slide onto the dovetail mount, so make sure the plastic is down enough that it won't hit.

When you do this it will cause the RTV to ooze up over the full level. that's fine, don't worry. Make sure the tape or whatever on the inside of the breech is good and sealed. You can feel it with your finger. And make sure that the plastic is in the proper place. Put the body in a safe spot and leave it alone for a few days to let the RTV cure.

After it is good and dry, take a razor blade and cut off the little bits that oozed up to where the cap will slide onto the dovetail.

If you can't figure out what to do after a few steps previous to this one, just don't even bother and sell it to me for super cheap! :D

The plastic will allow the screw to push the RTV into the bore to give friction to the ball.

Good luck and let us know how it works out for ya...

DM

[winddancer]

Thanks Devilman for the help and thanks Smoothice for the reply. It doesn't sound so hard. I'll give it a try.... Winddancer

[Ando]

Ya..I still have our convo saved from Sept. of last year. You had suggested RTV which I tried before with not so great results but then remembered there's a good 30 different types to chose from.

After trying out everything but the kitchen sink...From rubber cement, silicone, cutting up about 30+ of those 25 cent bouncy balls you get from the toy machine at the mall, styrofoam based products etc...etc... I've tried a ton of stuff but finally broke down and and purchased a few other types of RTV. I tried about 6-8 different ones till I found one that worked the best. I'm still wanting to try out ballistic jell though. :rolleyes:

If anyone has some and is willing to part with an 1/8 or 1/4 cup of it. That would be awesome :cheers:

[winddancer]

Although I haven't tried making any nubbins for the Galactic Z yet, I've done a lot of mold making for sculpture etc. and I think that the best material to use is a two part, curing, mold making rubber, rather than any of the RTV or similar materials that come in a single tube from auto supply stores. The RTV is very soft and is only meant to be used in thin layers, so it has no tensile strength.

The two part rubbers that are used to make molds are much stronger and cure by a chemical reaction, so they don't shrink when they cure. The main problem though is that they usually only come in one or five gallon containers and are very expensive. Here's a link to an art supply that sells small quantities. I don't know anything about this particular rubber, but I can guarantee that it's far better than RTV rubber.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/smooth-on-oomoo-30-silicone/

Another possibility is the impression rubber that dentists use. It comes in small injectable cartridges like some epoxies and I see it on eBay every once in a while. I've never used it for molds, but I always wanted to try it,

In a week or two I'll try making the nubbins with some silicone mold making rubber that I have left over and will let you all know how it goes.

Regards....Jon

[Smoothice]

Thanks Devilman for the help and thanks Smoothice for the reply. It doesn't sound so hard. I'll give it a try.... Winddancer

No problem :cheers:

DM actually used to play with the guy that created the Galactic Z body. So i'm pretty sure he is the closest thing we have to an expert ;)

[DevilMan]

No problem :cheers:

DM actually used to play with the guy that created the Galactic Z body. So i'm pretty sure he is the closest thing we have to an expert ;)

Well though I did play with Yoshi and the Dragons back in the day, I wouldn't say that I would be the expert on it... A 2 part urethane such as some of the stuff that you can get from TFB plastics will more than likely work better. BUT if you have ever used the Z body, you will find that the nubbin does need more give than anything. Otherwise it tears apart. You don't need alot of force to make it work.

That and a few bucks for a tube compared to $40+ for a pint that you need 2 drops out of...

Well you get the idea...

If you do try something else, please let us know how ti works out.

DM

[flyingpootang]

hehehee..... I'll send ya a pm in in a bit man...

I just got in from work
DM
WORK???? Ok who are you and what did you do with Mook :p

[going_home]

By the time you fix the nubbin and find a .697 barrel you will have spent more time and money than if you just went and bought an Apex barrel.
Just saying.





;)

[Coralis]

how thick is the rubber nubbin approximately ??

[robertsr1811]

By the time you fix the nubbin and find a .697 barrel you will have spent more time and money than if you just went and bought an Apex barrel.
Just saying.





;)

You of all people should know that this isn't the point. :)

[Ando]

how thick is the rubber nubbin approximately ??
It basically takes up the whole cavity. Just fill it up and let it dry. Make sure you spray some type of oil inside to keep it from sticking on the walls. It's still removable if you don't. Just takes a little more time and might tear your work if not done properly. The cure time is 12hrs for most RTV's but it'll be setup enough after 4hrs and you should be able to remove it.


By the time you fix the nubbin and find a .697 barrel you will have spent more time and money than if you just went and bought an Apex barrel.
Just saying.





;)

ROFL...I think Roberts told you where to stick that APEX :rofl:

EDIT:

And Winddancer. If you have a freak setup. They have .697 inserts that works.

[going_home]

You of all people should know that this isn't the point. :)

My point was the Z body isnt worth the time.
I've owned a few of them, all of them had the nubbin.
Even modded a level 10 on one of them.
After building several of them I came to the conclusion
they arent worth messing with.
And as far as being mags, well, they are pretenders.
The hype surrounding them is just that, all hype.
They dont perform as hyped and they are more finicky than a pump mag.
The Apex barrel is far superior in performance.
Speaking from experience and dollars spent on Z's.
Not trying to rain on the parade but a famous man once said :

"It is what it is".


Face value//


:ninja:

[DevilMan]

My point was the Z body isnt worth the time.
I've owned a few of them, all of them had the nubbin.
Even modded a level 10 on one of them.
After building several of them I came to the conclusion
they arent worth messing with.
And as far as being mags, well, they are pretenders.
The hype surrounding them is just that, all hype.
They dont perform as hyped and they are more finicky than a pump mag.
The Apex barrel is far superior in performance.
Speaking from experience and dollars spent on Z's.
Not trying to rain on the parade but a famous man once said :

"It is what it is".


Face value//


:ninja:

Hype or not, I do know they work to some extent. Albeit more random than not... BUT at least it still works just as well as a regular mag if its not working properly. My deal with them is that I was shooting one way back when and so it's more of a reminder of yesteryears with some great folks than about trying to prove to anyone that it works or not. It's also a way to say that the APEX barrel is not the first of it's kind, or that the Flatline was either...

I do know that Yoshi had his made in such a way as to be able to curve the ball to the right or the left, by rotating the nubbin around.. :ninja: So it WAS possible to "shoot around trees" Trust me.. I was victim to it more than one time both in game and out of game just "proving" it.

And Winddancer that stuff that you use for mold making should work. I know I have some samples of the stuff from the company called "SMOOTH ON" which I'm sure you know about. I do think it'd make some good nubbins, but I've not bought any of it. One thing to keep in mind, is that the ORIGINAL nubbins are prone to "break" and shear off... that is because they are too rigid. It don't take much to spin the ball... and it really has more to do with what kind of shell the ball has than anything else. The old ZAP balls that were "micro dimpled" worked VERY WELL in the Z body! But the super slick/smooth balls of today, don't fair so well. Also Evil works alright, but a break in the gun is most upsetting! :D So beware!

Let me know if you need anything else...

DM

[going_home]

If you are the one selling the Z body mag on Ebay you really should disclose to bidders the nubbin is missing dont you think ?

:ninja:

[flyingpootang]

Finicky as a Pumpmag??? I own both the Rainmann and tge AGD/Jay8541 kit and never had a problem. It's more if you don't know how to set one up problem than anything else...

[going_home]

Finicky as a Pumpmag??? I own both the Rainmann and tge AGD/Jay8541 kit and never had a problem. It's more if you don't know how to set one up problem than anything else...

A pump mag is almost as finicky as a cocker.
Heres the test bro, hand a pump mag to someone that has never used one before,
and see if the first time they pump it, the pump doesnt come off in their hands.

You know what I'm talking about.
They pump it once and the marker is in one hand and the pump handle is in the other.
I learned I dont have the patience for cockers or pump mags.
They are both too finicky.

:ninja:

[DevilMan]

A pump mag is almost as finicky as a cocker.
Heres the test bro, hand a pump mag to someone that has never used one before,
and see if the first time they pump it, the pump doesnt come off in their hands.

You know what I'm talking about.
They pump it once and the marker is in one hand and the pump handle is in the other.
I learned I dont have the patience for cockers or pump mags.
They are both too finicky.

:ninja:

ummmm... I've never had ANY of the pump mags I've handled including my own to come apart...

You sure you weren't missing a nut?

DM

[going_home]

ummmm... I've never had ANY of the pump mags I've handled including my own to come apart...

You sure you weren't missing a nut?

DM

It was a Rainmann229 kit (modified CCM).
There is no nut except the one aiming the marker.

I guess winddancer decided not to tell bidders the nubbin was missing on the Z body.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Excellent-AGD-Galactic-Z-Body-Automag-Red-Dot-Sight_W0QQitemZ160421636235QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_D efaultDomain_0?hash=item2559dfe88b

:rolleyes:

[robertsr1811]

What I mean, GH, is that it doesn't matter if it works good or not. We want it because it's old and weird.

I have a RamRod rail barrel and a Ronin Gear Katana adjustable bore barrel for just the same reason.

It's not a matter of "does it work as described"... It's all about the silly. I'll get mine running and rock it out just for kicks as well.