r/t-on/off, chopped 68valve.

[PAINTHEY]

I’m working on fixing up the old chopped 68 classic valve. The valves reg has been removed and capped. Using an ansII reg set to 480psi, Level 10 bolt and stock on/off. Crono's at 280fps. Shoots good.

When I put an r/t in the valve it sputters like the lvl 10 isn’t set correctly. It’s like the r/t is causing a short stroke. The sputter stops if I install a lvl 7 bolt. What’s up? Anyway to stick the r/t in there?

[damajor]

Try increasing your input pressure



I’m working on fixing up the old chopped 68 classic valve. The valves reg has been removed and capped. Using an ansII reg set to 480psi, Level 10 bolt and stock on/off. Crono's at 280fps. Shoots good.

When I put an r/t in the valve it sputters like the lvl 10 isn’t set correctly. It’s like the r/t is causing a short stroke. The sputter stops if I install a lvl 7 bolt. What’s up? Anyway to stick the r/t in there?

[athomas]

Use a shorter rt pin. There could be a slight difference in assembly position between the retro assembly and the classic assembly with respect to the top of the assembly. If the retro assembly sits lower(farther out of the hole) it would require a shorter pin to fully open the valve. I have heard others having the same problem. It was fixed using a shorter pin.

[PAINTHEY]

I found my .712 pin and it worked wonders. I shimmed my dye reg to hp output. It’s a lot lighter and
matches the gun. I haven’t had a chance to crono yet but from the bench it sounds good.

pic
http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/Oftenwrong/paintball/mag3.jpg