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View Full Version : Getting ready to do my Pneumag mods...



Loneassassin
04-16-2010, 11:13 AM
Just wanted to get a few pointers from those of you who have done this. I haven't even seen a pneumag in person, so I'm going to do the mods based on what I've seen and read on the various websites.

I recently recieved a pneumag kit from Mag79, so I'm pretty much ready to go. I just wanted to clarify a few things -

The idea is to have the trigger rod engage the Msv-2 as close to the top of the lever as possible, right? I've seen that a lot of sites have people drilling holes through their frame to align the trigger rod - but it seems that on my intelliframe, the existing trigger rod route should work fine - it just depends where I mount the Msv-2.

I can mount the Msv-2 as low as necessary in the frame, I don't plan on putting an Lpr inside the frame.

And as far as the Mpa-3 goes, all I need to do is file it down so it fits in the frame, right? I thought I'd just file both sides of it, then drill two holes in the frame for set-screws, so I can slide the ram around and lock it in place for adjustment. Is there anything else I need to do to the Mpa-3? I see on the BigEvil pneumag thread that they have it taken apart. I thought it was basically ready to go...

And I just need to adjust the Mpa-3's placement so it engages the sear near the bottom for maximum leverage, correct? (and with a small gap between the piston and sear). Thanks for any input!

reckid1986
04-16-2010, 01:20 PM
yeah you want the trigger rod as high on the lever that you can get it, i like to file the tip of the rod to a point so there is minimal drag on it, it should work fine in the stock location just polish it and remove any burrs that may be on it.

the reason BE pics show the mpa3 taken apart is so you can file it down without getting brass shavings inside it. im not sure if mag79 files it down so it just drops in so you may have just trim a little off the sides. when you drill the holes in the frame, drill the first one and make a little indent on the mpa3 and tap that hole, so the set screw holds it in place for the second hole. check your alignment once, twice, three times if you have to just make sure its positioned how you want it.

the msv2 can be mounted as low as you can just make sure you set it so you have a little adjustment room to tilt it back an forth to get the trigger pull you want.

good luck and have fun with it. i did my first one by looking at the pics that used to be on here. always remember to double check everything before you start cutting and drilling.

Loneassassin
04-16-2010, 02:05 PM
the msv2 can be mounted as low as you can just make sure you set it so you have a little adjustment room to tilt it back an forth to get the trigger pull you want.
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That's a good idea. I don't mind a long trigger pull as long as it's really soft, but it would be nice to be able to adjust it to get it just right. Thanks for the tips!!

Bigwooly1013
04-16-2010, 04:47 PM
mag79's kits only need to be filed on the sides to fit in inside width of the specific frame you intend to use it with. No other modifications to the setup are necessary.

Unless you mount the msv-2 somewhere that the arm would need to be shortened. but the way i learned it the longer the arm on the msv-2 the lease trigger force required to actuate the switch.

also to the OP if you PM mag79 he will help you with any installation questions you have. He's an all around A+ guy.

flyingpootang
04-16-2010, 06:20 PM
You got all the right info. The only thing I can add is if your using a Tickler LPR be sure to put a restrictor into the 1/8" NPT side. I've had problems with the LPR spiking and blowing off the during airing up.....

Loneassassin
04-16-2010, 06:39 PM
You got all the right info. The only thing I can add is if your using a Tickler LPR be sure to put a restrictor into the 1/8" NPT side. I've had problems with the LPR spiking and blowing off the during airing up.....

Is a restrictor something I can buy, or just something I can put in there to slow down the flow? Depending on how some parts sales go this weekend, I might be ordering an AKA lpr which should should withstand that kind of input pressure much better. (and perform much better all around) I'm kind of leary of Ticklers for the reason you mentioned. I've had three of them fail on Cockers and they were running pre-regulated air in those instances!