Valve Question

[El Camino]

I know the Retro Valve is a upgrade from the Classic Valve, CO2 to HPA, but was it a reactive trigger, or just HPA valve?? I know the RT Classic, RT Pro, X Valve are reactive trigger, but what is the difference with the E Valve over the X Valve? I want to switch my Classic Valve out to a HPA valve but I didn't need a RT valve, so I was thinking of using a Retro or E valve, plus I would save a few $. Right or wrong?? Thanks for your help.

[MANN]

AGD made 2 valves the rt and the classic. An rt can be relabeled as an emag, xmag, rtpro, retro, xvalve, etc, etc.

http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paintballs/automag_info/agd_valves.html

[mpsd]

I know the Retro Valve is a upgrade from the Classic Valve, CO2 to HPA, but was it a reactive trigger, or just HPA valve?? I know the RT Classic, RT Pro, X Valve are reactive trigger, but what is the difference with the E Valve over the X Valve? I want to switch my Classic Valve out to a HPA valve but I didn't need a RT valve, so I was thinking of using a Retro or E valve, plus I would save a few $. Right or wrong?? Thanks for your help.

The Classic and it's variants (Automag, Minimag, Micromag, Classic, Gold and Titanium) can shoot up to 13 bps reliably, runing on either CO2 or N2/Air. If you use air and replace the on/off for a RT on/off, you may be able to get it runing well up to 20 bps.

The Retro is and RT valve, therefore, can only be ran on N2/Air. The Retro, RT Pro, e-Mag, MicroRT and Micro e-Mag are all the same, changing just the lasering (ie: the name of the valve). They are all made of steel. The X-Valve, X and X-Mag are the same thing but made of aluminum, therefore, they are lighter and are anodized. These valves can go up to 35 bps depending on the on/off and on the input pressure.

So, if you just want to go from CO2 to N2/Air, you don't even have to change your valve. Also, any valve can be upgraded to Level 10. The aluminum valves can also be upgraded to ULT on/off and the other will probably need some internal milling but it's still doable.

:cheers:

[kcombs9]

if you don't want RT and non classic valve just install a ULT kit in any RT valve, you can tune it to no RT at all.

[Aslan]

I have a Level 10 Classic valve with a retro on/off. And I have a Level 10 Retro valve milled to accept the ULE trigger. I'd say with the classic I get 5-6 bps and with the Retro valve I get 7-8 bps. I run both on standard pressure (screw in) HPA.

I can't get higher bps because it short strokes. I don't think you can hit those higher bps rates without flirting with the RT effect. But, from my experience, you can't really get the RT effect without increasing your input pressure higher than the standard (screw in) pressure. The ULE trigger helps, but it's not "RT equivalent" by any means.

I'm trying to get an adjustable output tank for the retro valve to see if that gives me a little of an RT effect, but I'm realistically not looking for more than about 12bps because my warp is being fed by a 12V revy which can't feed much faster than 12bps.

As to your last question, a classic valve is cheaper and an X-Valve is more costly. All the other valves fall somewhere in between depending on whether they are working, Level 10, tuned, etc... Can you save money by getting an Emag or Retro valve over an X-Valve? Definitely. Do you need a new valve to go HPA? Absolutely not. The Classic valve works great on HPA.

[El Camino]

Thank you everyone that helps alot!!

[ProblemKinder]

E-Mag valve is an uglier, heavier X-valve (it's made from steel as opposed to aluminum, and they come in ugly grey). funcionally they are exactly the same valve.