Xvalve problems... i think...

[iridehyperlite07]

I just received my Xvalve, LVL 10, and intelli frame. I installed all of it on my RT rail with ULE body. I have tried just about EVERY shim combination on both the ULT and the LVL 10, but I still can't get it right. I gassed it up and pulled the trigger but nothing happened. Its like the sear is not engaging the ULT pin enough to push the bolt forward. I am using the largest carrier without it leaking and have lubed everything I could possibly lube. My tank is at about 2000 psi so I know it is putting out enough pressure, and I can hear the air enter the gun when the tank pin engages, no leaks, but no action. I screwed the velocity adjuster on the back of the valve as far as I could to force as much air out of it as I can, but it won't even leak out the back of the gun like one that has too much pressure. I don't know what else to try. Could it still just be shims that are the problem? I have checked all the O-rings and made sure that everything was put together right. HELP!

[reckid1986]

sear rod may need to be adjusted, try firing it by pushing on the sear itself with the grips off. also get it firing without any shims in the ult then tune it to your liking with the shims. Have you tried turning up the velocity? what bolt spring are you using?

[iridehyperlite07]

sear rod may need to be adjusted, try firing it by pushing on the sear itself with the grips off. also get it firing without any shims in the ult then tune it to your liking with the shims. Have you tried turning up the velocity? what bolt spring are you using?
I shot it out of air last night trying to get it working. I will go get more air today and try the sear firing method. I have the velocity turned up all the way and it still won't leak out the back of the xvalve like it should if it is over-pressured, which is why I was assuming that it was something wrong with the valve itself. I am currently using the red "middle" spring.

[Ando]

Pull your reg pin out the valve. Inspect, oil, reinstall and try again.

[athomas]

...using the smallest carrier without it leakingUse the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Using the smallest carrier won't allow the bolt to move at all.


I unscrewed the velocity adjuster on the back of the valve as far as I could to force as much air out of it as I can, but it won't even leak out the back of the gun like one that has too much pressure.Screwing the velocity adjuster in, increases the velocity. Screwing it out reduces the chamber pressure and the velocity. The mag will not cycle with the velocity adjuster screwed out all the way.



Could it still just be shims that are the problem? I have checked all the O-rings and made sure that everything was put together right. HELP!Remove all the shims in the level 10 bolt system. They do nothing to the actual operation but may cause leaking which could cause you to use a carrier size that is too tight.

The ULT shims may need to be added to make the gun cycle with a nice crisp feel, but putting 4 in to start should allow the gun to cycle properly for testing and general usability. ULT shims are 0.005" thick. Level 10 shims are 0.01" thick. You can substitute 1 level 10 shim for 2 ULT shims.

[iridehyperlite07]

OK. Got the gun working now but I occasionally have bolt stick where it wont push back all the way to make the sear stick. As soon as I push the LVL10 back manually it will fire again. I am using the silver spring.

Also, when I first gassed it up and pulled the trigger it was RIPPING full auto when I would hold the trigger down, not even pushing the trigger forward. I adjusted the velocity input and now I am back to a semi. I am assuming I need to adjust the LVL X with shims, but will the ULT with different shims affect this too? Also, will more shims=more of a response from the trigger? In other words, will they force the trigger back more to give me the higher rate of fire? Thanks!

[Ando]

To fix your full auto problem, removed a ULT shim.

It's def bolt stick. Have you already tried tweaking the lvl 10 and has the silver spring been cut down?

[iridehyperlite07]

To fix your full auto problem, removed a ULT shim.

It's def bolt stick. Have you already tried tweaking the lvl 10 and has the silver spring been cut down?

Silver spring has NOT been cut, from what I can tell. It still has both round ends on it and looks to be factory. I have not touched the lvl 10 yet. I didn't know what would affect bolt stick so I left it alone and decided to ask here first.

[athomas]

For tuning purpose use the red spring or even the shorter gold spring. The silver spring doesn't work on all the setups. It is too stiff and requires a velocity setting that is too high for normal use.

For your full auto problem, remove a ULT shim as mentioned.

Your level 10 needs to be tuned for the bolt stick problem. It probably just needs a larger carrier size. Always use the same white oring when changing carriers.

[iridehyperlite07]

For tuning purpose use the red spring or even the shorter gold spring. The silver spring doesn't work on all the setups. It is too stiff and requires a velocity setting that is too high for normal use.

For your full auto problem, remove a ULT shim as mentioned.

Your level 10 needs to be tuned for the bolt stick problem. It probably just needs a larger carrier size. Always use the same white oring when changing carriers.

Somehow the full auto problem stopped when I lowered velocity input, which is when the bolt stick started happening every other shot. I'll give the other springs a try. According to my stabilizer I am at about 650 PSI input which is about what I expected for normal. Will the LVL10 shims affect the bolt stick at all?

[Flatliner333]

Look at the lvl X carriers closely. I had one that was scarred up and caused me to have bolt stick.

[iridehyperlite07]

Look at the lvl X carriers closely. I had one that was scarred up and caused me to have bolt stick.

Will do.

[Ando]

Somehow the full auto problem stopped when I lowered velocity input, which is when the bolt stick started happening every other shot. I'll give the other springs a try. According to my stabilizer I am at about 650 PSI input which is about what I expected for normal. Will the LVL10 shims affect the bolt stick at all?

Normal is 800+ psi for a mag. You can go lower but you'll be in for some problems. Boost your pis back up to 800+ and start removing shims out of your ult one at a time.

[athomas]

Somehow the full auto problem stopped when I lowered velocity input, which is when the bolt stick started happening every other shot. I'll give the other springs a try. According to my stabilizer I am at about 650 PSI input which is about what I expected for normal. Will the LVL10 shims affect the bolt stick at all?650psi is really low, especially if you are using the silver spring. By lowering the velocity, you lowered the chamber pressure which increased the differential between the input and chamber. That is why the full auto stopped. I'll bet the whole gun works much better if you fed the valve with 850psi directly from the tank reg.

[iridehyperlite07]

650psi is really low, especially if you are using the silver spring. By lowering the velocity, you lowered the chamber pressure which increased the differential between the input and chamber. That is why the full auto stopped. I'll bet the whole gun works much better if you fed the valve with 850psi directly from the tank reg.

Velocity is now set at about 825, I just feel like the air coming out of the chamber is way too hard... Maybe thats just me. Anyway, even with the pressure set at 825 I am getting bolt stick and the same all the way up to 900...

[Ando]

You need to tweak your lvl 10 and go down to the red or gold bolt spring.

[athomas]

Ok, now that the input is up to the proper pressure, tune your level 10 as Ando said. The bolt stick is caused by a carrier that is too tight. Make sure you remove all the shims from the powertube when tuning so that you don't get any shim induced leaks.

[iridehyperlite07]

Ok, now that the input is up to the proper pressure, tune your level 10 as Ando said. The bolt stick is caused by a carrier that is too tight. Make sure you remove all the shims from the powertube when tuning so that you don't get any shim induced leaks.

Ok. So from here I just need to mess around with shims in the LVL 10 AND the ULT?

As for the bolt stick, I noticed that the front of the powertube is fine with the current carrier, it doesn't get tight until the back 1/4. Is that normal?

[Ando]

When we say "TUNE" we mean go up or down in your carriers. If it's a tight fit at the bottom then your carrier is 2 small. You need to use the largest carrier that won't leak. Removed the shims completely out of the lvl 10. Install the largest carrier that won't leak then try tripping your lvl 10. If it resets properly you don't need any shims in it. If it stalls, doesn't reset or slow to reset then add shims till it's properly working.

[athomas]

I wouldn't use any shims in your level 10 when tuning. You should be able to get your level 10 working perfectly without them. They don't actually do anything except determine how far the bolt needs to move to vent air. Since they only change the distance by 0.01" at a time, they really don't matter that much. Any breach blockage on a properly working level 10 will move at least that far and be able to vent air. Only use shims if the bolt moves, doesn't vent air, and doesn't reset. If the bolt vents air or leaks, shims will not help.

The tightness at the back end of the bolt travel into the powertube is the bolt stem fitting into the level 10 carrier. If the carrier is too tight, it squeezes the oring so that the inner diameter is tight on the bolt stem and it stops the movement too soon. This is bolt stick. By using a larger carrier, it allows the inner diameter of the oring to just fit the outer diameter of the bolt stem. With this, there is minimal friction between the oring and the bolt stem while allowing the bolt stem to be able to move freely inside the oring. Always use the largest carrier size that does not leak. Since it is the carrier oring tension on the bolt stem that is the critical force, it is important to always use the oring inside each carrier that you use. It is the oring that you are actually sizing. The carrier is just the method.