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O NOtHING
06-22-2010, 09:09 AM
I have a Mag I just picked up
UL rail and body with a retro valve
the frame is a old stock frame

Off and on when I first air it up I get one shoot. But afterwards nothing. Theres pressure on the pin behind the trigger and when you release the trigger it pushs it back forward. I have no air leaks or anything all the o-rings are new.

Any help would be great thank you

O NOtHING

Ando
06-22-2010, 09:19 AM
Adj your velocity up some.

O NOtHING
06-22-2010, 09:27 AM
Yea I thought of that to didnt help. I got it fire once with it up and yea you could tell right away that the velcity would have been around 350 or higher

O NOtHING

Spider-TW
06-22-2010, 10:28 AM
Check the gap between the trigger rod and the trigger.

Make sure you have a rail bushing.

Make sure you don't have a quad o-ring with a standard on/off pin.

Used mags can have all sorts of quirks.

O NOtHING
06-22-2010, 01:56 PM
Check the gap between the trigger rod and the trigger.

Make sure you have a rail bushing.

Make sure you don't have a quad o-ring with a standard on/off pin.

Used mags can have all sorts of quirks.

Ok already checked trigger and sear. I was thinking this could be the problem since a older style sear.

Lost me on a rail bushing. Could some post a pic of one so I could see what to look for.

And all the o-rings look right and seem to be new But since its a retro valve I could be wrong on it

But thanks for the advise. its just been so long since I worked with mags brain just has to take a few to boot back up

O NOtHING

Spider-TW
06-22-2010, 03:05 PM
Rail bushings can get lost and cause odd problems. It's the little cylinder on the right. It keeps the rail, frame and valve lined up...

http://www.pentestone.com/paintball/PumpMag/PumpMag%20014.jpg

And you do have a small gap (~1/32") between the trigger and the trigger rod when aired up, right?

O NOtHING
06-22-2010, 03:09 PM
Yea the bushing is in there.

yea checked gap and everything. I think I'm going to try a different trigger frame and see if that helps

O NOtHING

iridehyperlite07
06-22-2010, 03:52 PM
Used mags also can have stick problems. You should pull the ENTIRE valve apart, including the pins and rings and lube it good. Make sure you remember how to put it all back together. You can find the "exploded view" of the retro valve on the AGD website HERE (http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/manual.shtml)... Just scroll down and click on the retro valve exploded view on the right side. I had problems with first shot drop off and sporadic fire with my Xvalve and pulling the whole thing apart and lubing it worked. I actually found that the regulator pin was sticking and once I pulled that out it helped.

Another thing to check is that your On/Off is put together correctly and the pin moves inside the housing. I also had an issue with that where the sear was not engaging the pin correctly. I pulled it apart, lubed it and put it back in too. Would recommend checking that... As most people will tell you on here, oil in a mag is key and will fix a lot of problems.

Sorry for the novel of a response. I hope it helps a little.

Spider-TW
06-22-2010, 04:11 PM
Lvl 7 or Lvl 10 bolt?

iridehyperlite07
06-22-2010, 04:15 PM
Lvl 7 or Lvl 10 bolt?

You will have to tell that... If you pull the bolt off and look down the center of it, the level 10 will have a black semi triangular foamie piece in the middle of it on the front. The level 7 will have a solid metal bolt center with holes around the outside of the bolt. Also, inside the power tube the level 10 bolt system will have "shims" which are small circular discs that create minimal spacing differences. They look like little washers.

O NOtHING
06-22-2010, 04:18 PM
Yea its a lvl 10

I'm going to go by the diagram info thanks for the link. And just rebuild it from the ground up and see if I catch something there

If no luck after that I'll repost that I still need help

LOL
O NOtHING

iridehyperlite07
06-22-2010, 04:27 PM
Yea its a lvl 10

I'm going to go by the diagram info thanks for the link. And just rebuild it from the ground up and see if I catch something there

If no luck after that I'll repost that I still need help

LOL
O NOtHING

No problem. Good luck. Remember even if it isn't a moving part, lube it. It won't hurt it and might help your issue.

fflamingmoe
06-22-2010, 06:01 PM
Don't try and turn the velocity up if the tank is in.
Did you try turning it up then puting the tank on?

athomas
06-22-2010, 08:28 PM
... the level 10 will have a black semi triangular foamie piece in the middle of it on the front. The level 7 will have a solid metal bolt center with holes around the outside of the bolt. ...Level 7 bolts come with both foamy fronts or extended metal noses.

Level 10s can be determined by the larger bolt stem narrowing to a smaller diameter stem at the back of the bolt. The level 7 has a larger diameter stem that stays the same diameter all the way.

BlackOps
07-06-2010, 12:24 AM
I have the exact same problem you have on one of my mags now. It fires exactly once and that's it. I can still feel pressure on the pin, but it won't fully reset and fire again.

Regular R/T on off. If I happen to figure out what it is before you do, I'll let ya know. Good luck! :cheers:

Ando
07-06-2010, 03:47 AM
Tighten up your field strip screw a little with a allen key. I have a mag that does the same crap. Only way to get it to fire properly is tightening it up.

XM15
07-07-2010, 03:41 PM
What spring is installed on the lvl 10 bolt? Lvl 10's have 3 different length bolt springs. The red spring is the longest, the silver is medium, and the gold is a standard length spring. You may have one of the longer springs installed and that would cause the problem you are having. I only have one valve that will work with the longer springs.

athomas
07-07-2010, 06:23 PM
What spring is installed on the lvl 10 bolt? Lvl 10's have 3 different length bolt springs. The red spring is the longest, the silver is medium, and the gold is a standard length spring. You may have one of the longer springs installed and that would cause the problem you are having. I only have one valve that will work with the longer springs.The silver spring is the longest and stiffest. The red spring is the middle spring. The gold is the short and lightest spring and will work in all situations.

BlackOps
07-09-2010, 03:35 PM
For the sake of helping you narrow down your issue. I had the exact same problem. I had a ULT lying around and installed it and it works fine, so I can only assume that the problem is On/Off related in some way.

athomas
07-09-2010, 04:23 PM
What is the output pressure of the tank regulator? It needs to be a high pressure regulator. When screwing on the bottle, hold the trigger in. This should get rid of the single shot when airing up. Then quickly release the trigger to set the orings. You should be using the short gold bolt spring when troubleshooting your problem. Make sure you are using the largest carrier that does not produce a leak when the gun is sitting in the ready position while aired up and the trigger forward. Don't use any powertube shims when testing carriers. A carrier that is too tight will not allow the bolt to cycle properly if at all, especially if the bolt spring is too stiff.