RT goodness

[the mag guy]

Hey everybody,
First off I hope you're enjoying your 4th of July. I am about to acquire an original Automag RT, but before I do I would like your input. My main question is how different is the trigger and valve compared to a regular automag? Secondly, how "reactive" is the rigger, is it anything like the RT trigger on the tippmann A-5?

I've owned and worked on many 68's and at one point I even built a pneumag using an X-valve, but the X-valve had the ULE trigger kit and it was pneumatic so I never really felt the reactivity of that valve/trigger either. From what I've read and heard, the X-valve is the aluminum version of the RT valve, but once again I have never used it without the ULT.

Basically I'm looking for what I can compare the original RT trigger to. Is it easy to get a real quick burst of shots or is it really all that different from a regular automag? Can the gun start to "run away"? My last question is this: Besides enhanced looks, is the RT different enough to be worth the extra money over a classic mag?

A little extra info from me: This gun is going to be primarily a woodsball gun with the occasional trip to the speedball course and a scenario games thrown in here and there. I'm not too concerned about the ROF, I'm more concerned with shot to shot consistency.

[VFX_Fenix]

The RT Trigger was pretty fast, but not run-away like a Tippmann RT. You could certainly shoot 'em fast and with some practice there is a sweet-spot that will produce a pretty good string. The Original RT Mags are pretty close to the stock X Valve mags in terms of trigger feel so long as you don't have an ULE installed.

The RT will feel like a Tippmann RT that isn't quite set to run-away, but getting close to run-away. Overall pretty sweet guns and the bodies on 'em are beautiful. As with anything that was Once-Upon-a-Time Pro-Level guns from the late 90's they'll be more than competent in any environment you'd choose to throw them into. Maybe lacking a little of the firepower end of things for the tourney scene, but certainly not a slouch.

[the mag guy]

The tourney days are long gone for me. I played the tourneys for a while and they were the cause of my dissappearance from paintball. I'm glad to be back and I'm glad to be playing REC again and I'm really excited to have a mag again. Thanks for all the information, that's exatcly what I was looking for. :headbang:

[cerrik]

A friend of mine picked up an RT a while ago with a Benchmark trigger on it. we aired it up and I pulled on the trigger maybe 3 times before it started to RT on me. And I was able to do that every time I started shooting it. I went through about 4 cycles of 2-3 pulls before I could get it ti react. That pretty much convinced me that I wanted one too. It was a preset High output PI tank.. so I'm gonna say 850 output.

[Newt]

Best solution for an RT mag today is a Ninja system. I had Ninja put a reg together for me with the max output they would recommend (~1000 PSI). My ReTro valve just freaked out. I'd been using a .720" pin just to get any bounce at all, and I could not even control it until I put a quad oring in. At that point it settled down to a controllable 20+ BPS. It works great with the standard .750" pin and oring too.

[the mag guy]

ok so I thought you were reffering to a reg that would replace the RT valve. I checked it out and it looks like I'll be getting a ninja tank when I scrap up some more cash. this purchase is prolly gonna break the bank for a bit.

[tosburn3]

Hey everybody,
First off I hope you're enjoying your 4th of July. I am about to acquire an original Automag RT, but before I do I would like your input. My main question is how different is the trigger and valve compared to a regular automag? Secondly, how "reactive" is the rigger, is it anything like the RT trigger on the tippmann A-5?

I've owned and worked on many 68's and at one point I even built a pneumag using an X-valve, but the X-valve had the ULE trigger kit and it was pneumatic so I never really felt the reactivity of that valve/trigger either. From what I've read and heard, the X-valve is the aluminum version of the RT valve, but once again I have never used it without the ULT.

Basically I'm looking for what I can compare the original RT trigger to. Is it easy to get a real quick burst of shots or is it really all that different from a regular automag? Can the gun start to "run away"? My last question is this: Besides enhanced looks, is the RT different enough to be worth the extra money over a classic mag?

A little extra info from me: This gun is going to be primarily a woodsball gun with the occasional trip to the speedball course and a scenario games thrown in here and there. I'm not too concerned about the ROF, I'm more concerned with shot to shot consistency.

Having owned both an x-valve mag and a 98 with RT I can say:

RT mags are much easier to do single shot without rebounding.

Tippmanns have a much easier/broader sweet spot. Finding the sweet spot on an RT mag can be like finding a needle in a haystack (I run about 900 psi) . You can increase the input pressure to make the RT easier, but then the ROF skyrockets and I don't want to be shooting more than 15 bps.

[athomas]

Basically I'm looking for what I can compare the original RT trigger to. Is it easy to get a real quick burst of shots or is it really all that different from a regular automag? Can the gun start to "run away"? My last question is this: Besides enhanced looks, is the RT different enough to be worth the extra money over a classic mag?The retro trigger is a reactive trigger but not a response trigger. The tippmann triggers are a response trigger.

The retro triggers cut the pull force in half compared to the standard automag, but the kick-back is approximately doubled due to the force of the input air on the top of the on-off pin. That gives a 4 to 1 ratio of pull force to return force on the trigger. A standard automag, even with a retro on-off assembly installed only gets a 2 to 1 ratio.

You can get runaway if you go too high on the input air pressure or if your on-off pin is too short or if the bolt/sear gets worn. Under normal settings, you will not get a runaway trigger.

The retro valve cycles at over 26 bps without any shootdown compared to 16pbs of the classic. While 16bps from the classic is excellent, it relies on perfect trigger operation. The faster recharge of the retro valve allows for error when pulling and releasing the trigger. You are much less prone to short stroking a retro valve than you are a classic valve for this reason.

[the mag guy]

Thanks for the plethora of information, that's why this forum is still the best one out there! Unfortunately the guy I was negotaiting with raised the price at the very end and refused to come back down. I will not be acquiring the RT currently, maybe another day. I;m gonna fix my sights on an epic or a nova for now.

[the mag guy]

so in a weird turn of events I just bought an RT!!!! I'll post pics once I get it in!

[Newt]

Congratulations! I knew you'd make the right decision!