Slow Reset

[BlackOps]

So I've converted another mag with E lowers. Replaced the ULT in the valve with the RT on/off with the emag pin and quad O-ring. It fires fine (per se) in both mechanical and electronic modes, but then it takes almost a full second for the on/off to reset. I can hear it hissing while its trying to reset until it finally clicks into place, and then it stops. I've replaced the quad o-ring, the one that that goes around that and the little one inside the on/off. Same effect. I did grab the on/off from my other emag and used it with quad/top oring on my new setup and it worked fine. Seems to me that maybe the pin is fit too snug in the inner oring? I had read in a few places where people had the same problem and it eventually wears in, so I spent 30 mins on the couch last night popping off shots to see if it would wear in, but I've had no luck.

As is usually the case, I'm probably just over looking something simple.

[Ando]

I have a mag that does that same crap, mine isn't a wear in problem. My fix was tightening the field strip screw a little over finger tight with a allen key.

[BlackOps]

Yeah, no luck with that either. Maybe I'll order some O-rings and try a handful of different ones.

[Coralis]

try retuning your level 10 .... bolt stick can cause the same problem

[athomas]

Yes, bolt stick. The vent hole is exposed during this time. Residual air is vented out the bolt stem vent hole until the pressure is low enough that the bolt spring can overcome both the oring friction and the force of the residual pressure. Once this happens, the bolt resets and the on-off pushes the sear forward to reset the trigger mechanism.

[BlackOps]

If it was bolt stick, why does it work when I swap out on/off assemblies?

[Ando]

Measure the pin in that on/off and see if it's the correct size or try using a regular oring setup with the one giving you problems in the E-Mag. The quad isn't mandatory to use with lowers.

[athomas]

Sometimes just moving parts around temporarily fixes a problem. It isn't really a fix but works for now. If this is the case, the problem will return. Try swapping the on-off assemblies back and see if the problem comes back. That is one way to help find out.

Check the length of the on-off pins.

[BlackOps]

The pin is a tad bit longer than I expected. Not much, its .7135.

I removed the quad o-ring and replaced it with the standard o-ring that normally goes in its place and everything seems to be working fine. Not sure that's the 'appropriate' fix, but its doing the job, which is what matters in the end.

Thanks again for all the fast responses and help. :headbang:

[athomas]

That difference in pin length shouldn't matter. Are the body and rail standard retro/emag parts?

[BlackOps]

Yeah, full size Tac One body and a wingless RT rail.

[Tunaman]

I just did a mag that I spent 3 hrs on...couldn't get it to work for beans. Same symptom as yours. Finally swapped the rail with a new one and the problem is gone.

[athomas]

Interesting. Perhaps there were some rails that went through the system that were out of spec.

[Spider-TW]

Maybe the sear is rubbing on the sides of the rail? I had an old setup that had a good rub on the sear from the rail. I also had a rail that the sear pin had to be pressed all the way into the slot (am/mm), or else one side would sit a little high and the whole thing would bind. Then there's the homemade sear pins that aren't straight anyway. :rolleyes:

[MingusX]

make sure you have the rail bushing in place.

[Tunaman]

I believe the rail was bent ever so slightly. It had a super long foregrip and vert asa too. One drop is all it would take. I couldnt tighten the screws or it wouldnt fire.

[MingusX]

I am having kind of the same problem on mine.
Sometimes the on/off resets very slow and sometimes the bolt dosent go all the way back.
I have a RTpro X-valve whith LX.
I have noticed that i have a blue L7 bumper on.
Could that be the cause of the problem?

[Spider-TW]

I am having kind of the same problem on mine.
Sometimes the on/off resets very slow and sometimes the bolt dosent go all the way back.
I have a RTpro X-valve whith LX.
I have noticed that i have a blue L7 bumper on.
Could that be the cause of the problem?
The bumper shouldn't be the problem. Most likely bolt stick as noted above. Chronic binding sears are unusual. Getting something stuck under one side of a sear pin on an am/mm rail is probably more common (or less rare than a misaligned sear).

[athomas]

I am having kind of the same problem on mine.
Sometimes the on/off resets very slow and sometimes the bolt dosent go all the way back.
I have a RTpro X-valve whith LX.
I have noticed that i have a blue L7 bumper on.
Could that be the cause of the problem?Make sure you tune the level 10 without any shims installed. Use the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak. Always use the same white powertube oring and only change the carriers.

The blue bumper will not affect the level 10 tuning or bolt stick.