Removal of the On/Off valve?? How to

[Gibripper75]

I am replacing all O rings in the mag I have currently, now its just down to the On/Off valve. I studied the manual and searched the net but how do you get that darn thing out of there?? :confused: Thanks

[cyberave68]

The Brass piece has a small flat end on each side. You need to get ahold of it with your fingernails and pull it STRAIGHT out. If it has been in there for a bit and seems to be stuck. You can try to use a super SMALL flat head screw driver and carefully try to pry it up and out, switching sides often...

[Gibripper75]

I tried that too last night. I was also contemplating putting the valve back together and applying some air to the system to blow it down..

[georgeyew]

You can also try a pair of needle nose pliers. But make sure that you put a piece of cloth over the edge of the on/off so that you don't scratch it.

[Tunaman]

I tried that too last night. I was also contemplating putting the valve back together and applying some air to the system to blow it down..
DONT DO THIS!!!!!!
YOU CAN LOOSE AN EYE!!!!!!
NEVER AIR UP THE VALVE UNLESS IT IS INSTALLED IN THE MAINBODY!!!!!!
THE on/off will come out. Just pull it. NO Tools!

[punkncat]

Tuna is absolutely right from a safety standpoint you def. should not hook your HPA straight up to an uninstalled valve. Not only will the on/off assy be a bullet, but the bolt will as well.

I have had issue with removing an on/off that the orings had deteriorated and was stuck in the valve. Take off the bolt, wrap the valve in a rag with the on/off faced away from your face and hand. Leave the powertube open so you can cap it with your finger. Hook the valve up to a compressor running about 80-90 PSI and put your finger over the end of the powertube. It should build just enough pressure to eject the on/off and start leaking there. You should then be able to get enough purchase on it with your fingers to remove it (after taking the air back off of course).

[Gibripper75]

Yup thats exactly it, Its stuck pretty good in there and yes probably from bad O rings. I was able to get my hands on my friends Mag and I could pull his on/off valve easily out with my fingernails. Guess I'll be trying the air compressor trick..

[Spider-TW]

You could try a soak in WD-40 and use a small stainless knife blade to start it out.

Whatever you do, wear some sort of safety glasses because you're trying to get it to pop out. You're "asking for it" (or your tool) to pop you in the eye. It would almost not be an accident; it would almost be on purpose.

Be prepared for success. :)

[factoid]

I will admit to having been foolish enough to do what you're describing. While it didn't end up hurting me, I don't recommend it. I got lucky.

If you've got a hemostat around the house that might work. It's possible you'll scratch up your on/off bottom, but that's really just cosmetic...as long as you don't put a burr on it that's scratching up your valve body you'll be fine.

I prefer hemostats to needle nose pliers when working on paintball equipment...you're much less likely to put enough force on a part to break it if you're holding something like you hold scissors than pliers which you can easily just clamp down on with your whole fist.

[Newt]

Another option is near boiling water. It's possible you have some hardened oil holding it in like glue. If you use WD40, be ready to replace all the other orings as well.

[Gibripper75]

Yup its really in there and now I'll be trying the boiling/hot water trick, I guess the previous owner really neglected this gun :(

[factoid]

Yup its really in there and now I'll be trying the boiling/hot water trick, I guess the previous owner really neglected this gun :(

If it's really in there that hard there has to be something other than just gunky oil or a stuck o-ring. You might have some corrosion going on, or some kind of debris. Maybe an o-ring shredded and got pinched.

On off pins are stainless right?

Do you have access to any really powerful magnets? If nothing else you should be able to pull out the stainless steel on/off pin. At that point you might be able to get a pick down into the hole and pull it out.

A neodymium magnet is your best bet. You can usually find one inside a hard drive if you take it apart (this will destroy the drive in the process, though....but if you've got one laying around, why not?)

There's also the old nail and copper wire trick. Coil some copper around a steel nail, clip both ends to a battery and you've got yourself an electromagnet.


Method of last resort....you could always try to drill it out. Put a very fine drill hole into it, then go through with a tap. Now thread in a matching bolt and yank the sucker out. You've now destroyed your on/off assembly, but at least it's out of there. If you use a small enough bit and are careful you don't necessarily have to end up with metal shavings inside your valve, but those can be cleaned out if it happens.

Take pictures when you get it out! I think we all want to see what caused it.

[athomas]

Assuming this is a retro/X-valve, you should be able to get an edge of a screw driver under the lip of the on-off assembly and pry it out. It comes easily once started. If you can get something under the edge of he assembly, use a pair of pliers to grab the small flat surface on the outer edge.

If it is a classic valve, it is even easier. The on-off assembly can be pried out by using a screw driver on the groove of the exposed lip of the assembly, or you can grab it with a pair of pliers. There is more to grab on a classic assembly.

[Spider-TW]

I guess I should post my horrible thought, just in case.

Maybe it was leaking and they glued it in.

It would be silly, but many of us have seen worse.

[Newt]

Good point, Spider. I've heard of guys JB-Welding the on/off in because they tried to dremel out their ReTro for a ULT for instance.

Possible solution would be to hold a soldering iron tip to the on/off for a few minutes, then apply force.

[punkncat]

You should be able to disassemble and remove all the other parts before dropping it into boiling water...but really, that shouldn't get hot enough to really hurt orings. The only thing I actually think that is going to do, is loosen loctite, and if that had been put in there it would likely have caused more issue that just making it stuck.

As cheap as on/offs can be found, drill it and take and extractor to it.

[factoid]

I guess I should post my horrible thought, just in case.

Maybe it was leaking and they glued it in.

It would be silly, but many of use have seen worse.


That gives me an idea....goo-gone.

Go to the hardware store and buy a two dollar bottle of adhesive remover. Goo Gone is the brand I always buy, it's fantastic at removing sticker residue. Mostly I use it to remove the backing from price tags and stuff, but it even worked to take wood glue off my floors.

If Spider is right maybe someone tried the old "put some tape under the o-ring to thicken it up" trick and it's gotten dislodged and wrapped around the o-ring.

A little goo-gone into the on/off shouldn't hurt. Maybe even put a couple drops into your valve and let it blow through the marker like oil. That way it can maybe disolve the crud from both sides and loosen it up.

I take no responsibility for your o-rings being eaten alive, though. It won't damage any of the metal parts, and it evaporates very quickly in air, so a bit of dry firing should clean it out, followed by a healthy dose of marker oil. I have no idea if that stuff would ruin an o-ring or not...my guess is no, but have a rebuild kit on hand just in case.

[Gibripper75]

Goo Gone= GOod idea...hmmm yeah its still stuck, but I am looking into getting another Automag as a back up and pull its valve. The one I am working on looks nothing like a typical Automag now :D and I'll post pics once its done and I get a new camera (mine is totally busted)

[Gibripper75]

update, I got the sucker with a bike pump none the less...

[factoid]

update, I got the sucker with a bike pump none the less...

How in the world did you connect a bike pump to your valve? That's a neat trick.

How did it look inside once you finally got it loose? Was there anythign in there?

EDIT: Oh and people sell classic valves all the time over on the BST forum. I'm sure there are at least half a dozen for sale right now. Check to see if any have had a full o-ring replacement recently and buy one of those. No need to buy a whole second marker just to steal a valve.

[Frizzle Fry]

update, I got the sucker with a bike pump none the less...

Good move. Sorry to have missed this thread; my trick is similar. I use a coiled remote; it has an on/off valve and a function push button on/off (no bleed, seals). Basically pressurize the hose, shut off the tank (sealing the other end) and then open the other end. It's not even close to enough to fill the chamber, but it gently pops the on/off with ease.

...apparently a bike pump works, though. Sounds easier. So you ya'll know, most hardware stores have 1/8th to Schrader adapters for something like $1.25 or so.