Need for the lvl 10?

[Tek2974]

So the whole point of the lvl 10 was to reduce chops by not pinching the ball. Fair enough.
With today's hoppers (rotor, pinokio, etc etc) why is there a need for the lvl 10? It's harder to tune then the lvl 7, there's that damn foamie that keeps flying off, and it uses more air.

Also, what would you need to convert a lvl 10 x valve back to lvl 7? I have a lvl 7 I acquired in a trade, but do I need other spacers for inside the power tube?

[dahoeb]

With how good hoppers are, why would ANY marker need an anti-chop system? :rolleyes:

I use a warp and revvy, so my first hand experience with the latest and greatest hoppers is limited.

However, I'm willing to guess that if you're running low on ammo while shooting at an angle, you would probably still stand a decent chance at having a misfeed. Also, if your hopper battery starts to run low, your chances for a chop go up significantly (w/o an Anti-Chop system). Those situations are not uncommon.

And if you're shooting very fragile paint, the LVL 7 is not going to be nearly as forgiving as the LVL 10 and the bolt it comes with.

If you'd like to revert back to the level 7, you're going to need:

1) the Level 7 power tube spacer,
2) the Level 7 bolt w/ appropriate spring
3) the LVL 7 powertube tip assembly (with appropriate orings)
4) You might need a backup washer, I don't know if the LVL 10 one is the same.

[Loneassassin]

To put it simply - take an electronic gun, turn the eyes off, and then attempt to shoot the gun on ramp (14-15bps, preferably) with a Rotor or Prophecy. Very likely, you'll get a mess.

As good as the new loaders are - they are not perfect. They do not supply a perfectly consistant stream of paint at any speed. While they can achieve in excess of 20bps fairly consistantly, there are times where they pause or misfeed just long enough that you'll get a chop unless there's some way of stopping the bolt.

So if you are capable of shooting more than 12bps, I'd strongly recommend keeping the lvl 10 in there. In my experience 12bps seems to be the magic cutoff. (My E-cocker is capped at 12bps if I turn the eyes off - I just don't want to risk it.) If you can't shoot that fast, then you will probably never outrun a Rotor or Proph. But, as mentioned above, there's always those times where you forget to reload and shoot the hopper dry...

[Spider-TW]

When you install a level 10 bolt, put all of the parts, and the level 7 bolt that you take out, into a plastic bag and store it. You can always trade back, but those parts are good for pump mags too.

[Newt]

My Qloader solved my 98c chopping problems quite effectively back in the day.

Still, the loader dilema has come full circle. Now we're seeing breaks from loaders forcing the paint too fast and past detents. The "Super Loaders" don't seem to have this problem much, but units like overclocked Halos and Reloaders do seem to.

[factoid]

I have never noticed a difference between level 10 and level 7 gas efficiency...though others have claimed it's as high as 10 percent.

If you need to be able to shoot that extra 10 percent (I'm pretty sure it's a lot less than that myself) in a game then maybe it's worth the chopping risk. If you don't have easy, cheap or free access to air fills it's probably a more convincing argument.

I've never met a hopper that can prevent chops all on its own. Most of the fancy hoppers on the market now are intended for use with electros that have eyes in them so I don't think the hopper manufacturers consider preventing ball chops to be their sole responsibility.