Damn Level 10 Leaks!!

[Advanced]

So I got an ULE RT Pro mag today.

I noticed some problems with it on level 7, so I figured I'd start from scratch with level 10.

Here's something I noticed--the grip frame appears to be from a standard RT, it has the large banjo hole which allows slack(movement side to side, front to back of the valve screw). Is this an issue?

Here is where I currently am--I air the gun up, it seems to seal OK. I dry fire several times, eventually the gun starts chuffing on it's own, and the trigger SLOWLY recharges.

Any idea wtf is going on? I am wondering if the grip frame's movement is causing the valve/spring to seal differently after vibration.

[SockMonkey]

check the on off? oil the heck outa the whole valve.

And many of the CF grips had rather large holes for the banjo bolt, but there is supposed to be a spacer for normal mag use.

[Advanced]

Alright here's what I did.

I found a spare bolt screw insert, it's more stable now(my intelliframe will be here tomorrow anyhow).

I read the automags.org level 10 FAQ. I read it slowly...

I went ahead and started with just carriers, I've settled on the 1 groove/ring.

I tested it, firing it over and over with no leaks. When I used a wooden spoon, it stopped the bolt, the bolt did not reset, clicking trigger did nothing.

I then added 1 shim, found it would only occasionally reset.

I added a second shim, more reliable, but intermittent bolt reset failure.

A third shim seemed to do the trick. I believe I am good for now.

[BigEvil]

You cant use a Classic RT frame on a standard set up. :nono: That could be the cause of your issues.

[Advanced]

There was an awful lot of slack for the frame to move. I've got the insert on it now.

Maybe it's just a crappy frame.

[athomas]

When you set up your level 10, did it chuff/vent air when you stopped the bolt? Or did it just silently move forward a tiny bit and then not reset. If it vented any air at all, but did not reset, then your adding of shims will only be a band-aid fix for a problem that will come back. If shims did fix it, then the problem is most likely caused by your grip frame that is allowing your valve to sit in the wrong location(to far forward). If the valve is stable and cannot move, then you will probably be ok now. If there is any movement in the valve position, then it will cause problems later on.

[Advanced]

I've got an intelliframe now, so the movement has been taken care of. I'm waiting on my RT parts kit to completely rebuild all the internal orings(they're all dark brown inside, and definitely ready to give way).

[Advanced]

I just did a complete oring rebuild on it, everything seems to be ok now. Anxious to go play but being it's a 35 mile drive to the field and supposed to snow this weekend, I have to wait.