Automag firing in full auto

[dsap420]

So here's my problem,

My gun is firing in full auto when I hold down the trigger. The On/Off assembly doesn't seem to be closing the valve and the gun cycles in full auto very quickly until i release the trigger. When I let go, the bolt resets and is ready to go again.

I just purchased a smaller sized carrier to keep the gun from leaking down the barrel. The gun was working great for a day then started messing up.

ULT body
X-Valve with LV 10 and ULT
No shims
Intelliframe (not hooked up to hopper)

Please help!

[Flatliner333]

What is the input pressure from your bottle ?

[correia3]

Happened to me before - I forgot to put the sear pin back in when I re-assebled the marker after cleaning... :tard:

[Ando]

2 issues you might have.

The marker needs oil or one of your top on/off orings is missing.

EDIT: ULT... :rolleyes: ...Too many shims probably.

[sjrtk]

2 issues you might have.

The marker needs oil or one of your top on/off orings is missing.

EDIT: ULT... :rolleyes: ...Too many shims probably.

This^^^ most likely.

[OPBN]

Is he stating that there are no shims in his ULT or in his Level X? If ULT that would rule out the too many shims theory.

[dsap420]

I'll take a look at the on/off o-rings again. That is likely the problem.

The tank is a brand new Ninja 68/4500 high pressure output, so that's not the problem.

There are no shims in the powertube for the lv 10.

[dsap420]

Guys, I am still having trouble with my mag. I oiled it up and took apart the on/off and I still can't see anything wrong. Should I be able to pull the on/off apart easily? Because I can't pull the two brass parts apart to check the pin and tiny internal O-rings. I feel like I'm going to break the dang thing if I pull any harder.

[maniacmechanic]

the ULT should unscrew , the shims go inbetween the 2 parts ( top & bottom ) the top should have a o-ring that sets " flush " on the top , there should be a Very small o-ring on the pin when you take the on/off apart

[dsap420]

So i took apart the on/off and removed all the shims, as i've heard that this will help fix the problem of double firing or full-auto firing. It helped a little bit, but the gun is still firing in full auto when i hold down the trigger.

Does anyone else have any ideas how to fix my gun?

[Dover]

AGD does mention that each o-ring is different from the last, and that i may need to let my LX leak a little while the o-ring wears in

however i just went through 2000 psi outputting at 800 psi and no luck with my Mag either... :cuss:

maybe keep trying o-rings ? My mag is pissing out the front but did a little lawn-sprinkler so i had to change out the on/off o-rings.

now my Mag just keeps pissing out the front of the LX bolt, i am not using any shims, the longest (red) spring, and still can't figure it out...

[dsap420]

My mag is still shooting full auto when I hold down the trigger. I've removed all of the shims from the on/off and it didn't solve anything.

I was wondering if the sear rod needs to be adjusted (aka screwed in or out). The guy at the local shop said that might be my problem.

Any ideas?

Just for clarification, my goal is to be able to fire semi-auto consistently and still be able to bounce the trigger for rapid firing.

[Tropical Life]

My mag is still shooting full auto when I hold down the trigger. I've removed all of the shims from the on/off and it didn't solve anything.

I was wondering if the sear rod needs to be adjusted (aka screwed in or out). The guy at the local shop said that might be my problem.

Any ideas?

Just for clarification, my goal is to be able to fire semi-auto consistently and still be able to bounce the trigger for rapid firing.

I had the same problem with one of my automags shooting full auto on trigger touch and yes it was the sear rod roll it inwards a bit and test you wont damage anything by doing that.

[dsap420]

I had the same problem with one of my automags shooting full auto on trigger touch and yes it was the sear rod roll it inwards a bit and test you wont damage anything by doing that.

I tried that. I tried rolling it in a bit, then i tried rolling it out again, then back in again...
This is frustrating.

So here are some theories I have.
1. It might be the piston/spring inside the valve right behind the on/off. If one of those was broken, then air would leak through to the bolt regardless of whether the on/off was closed.
2. It might be the on/off that isn't closing for some reason
3. It might be the sear that either needs more rod-length-adjustment or is old and worn and needs to be replaced.

Could old o-rings cause a problem like this? If so, which ones would be causing the problem and what should I do to fix it?

[athomas]

Full auto is a timing issue or a major leak past the on-off or regulator valve pin oring issue. The trigger rod does not affect the timing of when the sear catches the bolt compared to when the on-off opens the air passage. That timing is fixed by the shape of the sear itself. The only timing adjustments you can make is to add or remove shims from the ULT or change the length of the on-off pin.

If you are having issues, take the valve apart and clean it. Then replace all the orings. That way you are starting fresh and you won't have to wonder if it is an oring issue.

[dsap420]

Can anyone take a picture of the ULT on/off the way it's supposed to look with all the o-rings and pins in place? I can't seem to find a good picture or owners manual or anything like that. I think this is the problem...

[athomas]

Here is a link that has some pictures. It doesn't show the smaller white oring recessed in the top of the assembly, but shows the rest of them and their orientation.

ULT pictures (http://automags.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2702782&postcount=1)