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madcrisis
01-22-2011, 03:05 PM
i was thinking of having a buddy of mine who is a machinist bore one of my barrels out for freak inserts.is it worth it? what should the new ID of the barrel be? does it need to have o rings? should it be a flat or sloped at the end of the boring? all information is appreciated.

death594
01-22-2011, 03:07 PM
twist lock or not? if it is a twist lock it will have to be a two piece and drilled from the front not the back.

SockMonkey
01-22-2011, 03:11 PM
automags with twist lock barrels use the back of the barrel as the breach. The bolt actually goes into the back of the barrel like an inch or so.

Thats why you need a two piece barrel and would have to have it machined from the front of the back half of the barrel.

madcrisis
01-22-2011, 03:36 PM
im sorry for not clarifying its an autococker threaded one peice barrel

SockMonkey
01-22-2011, 03:41 PM
Oh then you should be fine. The breach is built into the ULE aluminum bodies.

Cant help you with what need to be done/specs, sorry. :D good luck!

mpsd
01-22-2011, 04:18 PM
You do know that there are machinists already providing this service for just $30, right?

I'm saying it because it's not so expensive and it's easier than gathering all the info and having someone new do it.

The two I can point you to are:

- Mongo (http://www.desertduckdd68.com/4436.html)
- Super Stanchy (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/airsmiths-mcb/146796-ssc-freak-boring-update.html#post1637023)

Mongo did one of my barrels and it came out just perfect. I also heard a lot of good thing about Super Stanchy's work.

:cheers:

pinkanese
01-22-2011, 06:00 PM
i was thinking of having a buddy of mine who is a machinist bore one of my barrels out for freak inserts.is it worth it? what should the new ID of the barrel be? does it need to have o rings? should it be a flat or sloped at the end of the boring? all information is appreciated.

http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/cadfilepost/barrels.html CAD Files of the Freak insert. I can't seem to find any threads with the dimensions for boring. Best bet is to hand your buddy the barrel and an insert and go to town.

It is quite worth it, especially if its a barrel in a not so common threading.

had my ATS barrel bored out recently, the machinist that did it for me sloped the end of the cut to help center the insert in the barrel. Freak inserts, especially the aluminum ones are known for having a horribly inconsistent outside diameter so sloping the front will help compensate for smaller inserts.

Traditionally bored barrels don't have oring grooves. If the OD of the barrel is large enough to allow it, though it might not be a bad thing to experiment with. I would suggest using two orings, one towards each end, not sure if your buddy has the tooling to accomplish this though.

best thing to do is have your buddy ream the barrel out a bit smaller than the diameter of a freak insert then take a boring bar and smooth it out and increase the diameter to a few thousandths more than the OD of the insert. You will also want to leave the length slightly shorter than an insert so that when you screw in the barrel there will be a small amount of pressure on the insert to keep it tight against the slope at the front.

Depending on what barrel you are using while you are boring the barrel bored out for inserts you may also want to have the rest of length of the barrel over-bored slightly. It all depends on the bore of the barrel you are using and what size paint you typically use. If the barrel is .693 or something like that then boring it shouldn't be an issue. Actually if your barrel is smaller than .685 why are you even doing this?

If your buddy is a competent machinist he should be able to do this just fine. But if there is any doubt in your mind there are people as mentioned who can do it for $20-35