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Red Reign
04-17-2011, 12:20 PM
i've been looking for a mag, originally thought along the lines of rt lvl and rt-pro+ valve, but not finding much in my range. think i came across a steal on a NIB minimag, i'd like to know a little more about it, what was stock in it for bolt and valve, whats available for upgrades, hows the performance, and whats it worth NIB?

sorry,
1) whats stock parts?
2) fitting upgrades?
3) stock performance?
$) new in box value?

OPBN
04-17-2011, 12:54 PM
You may want to post of a pic of the marker in question. From what I understand, stock Minimags would have come with a carbon fiber single trigger, AM/MM length rail, Vert ASA, MiniMag body short barrel and a MiniMag/Classic valve. What sort of price is the NIB marker being offered at? Considering you can build one for something in the $125-150 range, it doesnt seem to make much since to pay a lot more unless it has upgrades of some sort. As soon as you take it out of the box and play with it, it is no longer going to be NIB.

As far as upgrades, same as any other non-RT Classic Mag.

Red Reign
04-17-2011, 01:29 PM
all that seems accurate, can i assume its not a level 10 bolt?

OPBN
04-17-2011, 02:36 PM
all that seems accurate, can i assume its not a level 10 bolt?
LvlX was not standard when the MiniMags came out, but any Classic style valve could have had it installed. You would have to look at it to be sure. No other way to tell.

One thing I did forget to mention. The pricing given above is for a standard powerfeed MiniMag body. If it is an uncut Centerfeed body, it is worth substantially more. Untouched CF MM bodies can sell for upwards of $ 150 alone to the right buyer. PF bodies on the other hand usually only sell for $30-35 or so.

Red Reign
04-17-2011, 05:32 PM
It's a right power feed. bone stock, never been fired, they're asking for 150, I'm going to see if I can talk him down to 100. My first mag, got a couple of cockers. Wish me luck.

XM15
04-17-2011, 06:39 PM
Another thing different about minmags could come with a left air inlet instead of standard right side.

sjrtk
04-18-2011, 10:15 AM
ahh i remember that time in my life fondly when i bought my minimag. It was my first mag ever, and i had seena picture of one when they first came out and decided i was going to have one. 12 years later i bought one. Then right away put the level 10 in it and next an intelli. It just installs like butter, and worked great. only thing you have to remember is with the level 10 you sometimes need to change the reg piston to stabilize it with hpa unless you are gonna run CO2 :nono: But HPA is the best for a mag.

Pneumagger
04-18-2011, 11:28 AM
1) whats stock parts?
2) fitting upgrades?
3) stock performance?
$) new in box value?

1) Single Carbon fiber trigger frame with rubber grips, Q/D air hose for ASA to valve, and Vert ASA. Obviously the standard AM/MM rail with MM body. It also comes with a shorter barrel than the standard Automag. Valve is a stainless A.I.R. Valve with "MiniMag" logo and level 7 bolt.

2) Fitting upgrades for performance would be a Level 10, compressed air tank, double trigger frame, New barrel, and possibly a foregrip and bottomline ASA if you don't want to hang the tank vertically. In that order would be my preference. You'll want a GOOD elbow for the powerfeed if you've got a heavy or offbalance loader (eggy or halo) because gravity and inertia can cause it rotate on the off-center tilted feedneck... it's a pain because cheap elbows slip and acrylic elbows eventually crack because you have to overtighten them (electrical or athletic tape helps alot). A vert-feed body or cutting down of the feedneck is always helpful.

3) Stock performance will be about 8-9 balls per second before you get noticable dropoff. Single trigger with a somewhat stiff/crips pull will limit you to about 5-6 bps anyways. You may want to get a 12v revvie loader or something for it.

4) Minimags will last forever. It would probably make a fine woodsball or leisure game gun... low maintenence and consistent. For any tournament play, they are bit antiquated and HEAVY. Steel body, solid rail, Stainless valve... they are quite hefty. Basically, it's a niche market, so the value is dependant on what you think it's really worth. As far as automags go, Minimags aren't common but they're not too rare either. I don't know how it being "new" affects the price, but regular used automags can occasionally be found around $80-$100 on ebay... so I'd think a used minimag should be at home in the $135-$150 region.

You mentioned it was brand new, which is nice & all... but these are AIR valve mags. "New" means very little other than cosmetic newness because the AIR valve and marker will literally last forever with a few spare orings. Keep in mind, the classic automag is pretty much the same as a minimag... only the body and factory ASA setup is different on them. Air setup and ASA setup is cheap enough to change that it doesn't really matter... which means the only difference is the cosmetic barrel shroud. The valve, frame & rail are identical - so the preformance is identical (the regular mag is actually a bit lighter with the shorter body).

If you're looking for best value in automag performance for your limited cash...
the Classic Automag will be equal to the Minimag and still be about 30% cheaper.
You may be better off getting a cheap used mag so you have some money already saved towards a ReTro valve or vert feed body.

Well used $70 automags (already have a vertical feed like a minimag):
http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=256195

athomas
04-19-2011, 05:42 AM
A bone stock minimag is the same as a classic mag except it has the vented body. It comes stock with a left side hardline, vertical feed and short 8" barrel as well as a single trigger carbon fibre frame. It will have a level 7 bolt. The valve, like any classic valve, has a capability of about 16bps if the trigger is pulled and released in full strokes. It can be run on both CO2 and HPA without any changes. If you install a level 10, you will probably need a new regulator piston assembly because the older stock versions were designed for the lower chamber pressures of the level 7 bolts, not the higher pressures of the level 10 bolts.