Dead Trigger with ULT

[shooter311]

I have an X valve with ULT, I had it working great, I could walk it, and was firing quite fast with it. I didn't touch anything, I gas it up today, and it won't fire. The sear pushed out on the trigger, but when I pulled it the marker did not fire, but the sear kept steady pressure on the trigger. I had another ULT that I put in it, and it did the same thing. I put my Rt on/off in it and it fired just fine. After every single shim combination I could make I found one where it would fire (2 shims), but the recharge is really slow. It can shoot about 2 bps max. I'm not sure what I am doing wrong. It shot great yesterday, and I never took anything apart then today it won't fire. Same tank, full of air, no paint, x valve, ule, intelli, rt pro rail. Any help would be great. Thanks

[Automag ReTro]

Check the field strip screw? I never had a problem with my screw coming loose but just recently it would loosen up after a lot of firing, or a really long, fast string. I think I need to add a little oring or something to add some friction so it won't turn out on me. But anyways, as it loosens I would experience and endless list of symptoms and having pressure but not firing was definately one of them.

[Spider-TW]

oil?

[shooter311]

I checked the field strip screw, and I oiled it a whole lot, but still same problem. This really has me stumped.

[Justus]

Bolt stick?

[Spider-TW]

With more than 2 shims it doesn't fire?

With the valve out, check the front screw and make sure it is snug. When the body is warped, it can rock up or down, changing the effective on/off pin length.

[shooter311]

Okay so I tried swapping everything around and finally I cannibalized my one rt and put 6 shims in the other. With six shims the ult was sticking out just a tiny bit so it was hard to slide the valve in (I did so very carefully). It fired. The trigger pull was extremely light, but it rt'd very easy, and too much for me. So I figured it meant the sear pin was not long enough, even though there was a gap about the size of a credit card between the sear pin and trigger. I adjusted it so that the pin was barely touching the trigger. I first tried three shims and it leaked. I went to two and if fired great. Very light and no bounce (the way I wanted it). I'm not sure if the pin backed out over use or what, but it seems to do the trick. It seemed to have the standard gap I always used when it was not working, any idea what would cause it not to work?

[aerosaaber]

sometimes I'll have the slow recharge and if I loosen the field strip screw slightly (1/4 turn or less) it'll be fine. I added an oring to remind me to avoid over-tightening it but sometimes I just don't pay attention.

[athomas]

So I figured it meant the sear pin was not long enough, even though there was a gap about the size of a credit card between the sear pin and trigger. I adjusted it so that the pin was barely touching the trigger.To set the trigger rod, air the gun up and put the safety on. Hold the trigger against the safety. There should be a slight gap (almost touching, but not quite) between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod. Adjust as necessary to get this gap.

For the ULT, add shims until the gun becomes too reactive. Then remove the shim that caused it and you have the correct setup. That should be somewhere between 4 and 6. There should be no leaks associated with ULT shims unless there are too many and it forces a bolt stick situation that causes a continuous stream of air through the opened on-off and out the front of the non-reset bolt.

[Spider-TW]

To set the trigger rod, air the gun up and put the safety on. Hold the trigger against the safety. There should be a slight gap (almost touching, but not quite) between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod. Adjust as necessary to get this gap.

For the ULT, add shims until the gun becomes too reactive. Then remove the shim that caused it and you have the correct setup. That should be somewhere between 4 and 6. There should be no leaks associated with ULT shims unless there are too many and it forces a bolt stick situation that causes a continuous stream of air through the opened on-off and out the front of the non-reset bolt.
Not at athomas; people don't appreciate that gap much, but it tells you that the sear is as far forward as it can go. If you have no gap, then you don't know where the sear is stopping. If it stops short, that means the on/off pin has not dropped as low as it can go. Considering you're talking about 1/32" making a big difference in on/off pins, you need to be sure the sear can travel fully. You're talking about one full turn of that trigger rod stopping the whole deal.