RT and the x-valve

[stimpysan]

I've had 5 or 6 x-valves, an RT pro, Emag, Retro valve and RT. Can someone explain to me why one of them RT's so well and another doesn't. I just bought another x valved gun and by far this thing is a machine gun at 1100 psi but still shoots nice with a regular trigger pull.. It's perfect. I have compared it with my other valves and there is no difference. My RT pro valve rt's nice at 850. What is the secret to getting all of them to shoot that nice?

[rawbutter]

The gnomes that live inside the gun can be finicky. :ninja:

Seriously, I've heard others explain that despite the incredible tolerances that AGD markers have, the pure magic that makes RT work is incredibly delicate. The tiniest of variations in the valve specs makes it necessary to treat each gun like an individual, so no two valves shoot exactly the same. You just have to fiddle with each one until it works.

The same holds true to the Level 10 anti-chop bolt. That's the reason why there are eight o-ring carriers of different sizes and shims on top of that. On some valves, the smallest carrier works great with two shims, but on others, a larger carrier and three shims might be needed. :confused:

I don't get why each piece can't be machined perfectly identical. I really don't. Still, I love it when everything's working correctly.

[stimpysan]

I had a couple of friends over yesterday and they were shooting their mini invert and a brand new angel. They where talking about rate of fire and how nice thier guns where. I pulled out the mag I just got and it blew them away that it shot faster than thier Electro's.

It's great to have a nice x-valve! :cheers:

[Ando]

Mainly it's the length of your on/off pin and input psi. Get a micrometer and ck the size of the pins in your valves. I've set all my pins between .725 and .730 at around 1200-1500 psi and they're all roughly about the same when it comes to RT'ing and finding that sweet spot. Stock is .750 on the pin.

A finely tuned lvl 10 will also help keep your paint streams a-going.

Other factor which you hear a lot about and which I don't agree with this is wear in time, I've replaced ever oring in almost every one of my RT, Retro, Emag and Xvavles and still shot 100% the same on the new orings.


The same holds true to the Level 10 anti-chop bolt. That's the reason why there are eight o-ring carriers of different sizes and shims on top of that. On some valves, the smallest carrier works great with two shims, but on others, a larger carrier and three shims might be needed. :confused:

Reason behind that was the orings AGD got from the manufacture. If you purchase a lvl 10 kit now. They'll only come with 4 carriers, not the 9 that it had before. The manufacture either got their crap together or AGD went with a different one.

[stimpysan]

I have one pin that I took out of a valve that is .633. You pull the trigger and it goes full auto until you shut the air off. Another is .740 and it RT's sometimes nice then others only 5 or 6 shots no matter how much pressure you put on it. The new one is stock .750 and it's perfect at 1100.

I do truly think that each valve must be fine tuned to each body, rail and sear. Just would be nice if there were standard specs for operation. But they are fun to tinker on!