Emag info?

[Justus]

Somewhere out there in internet land there has to be a repository of information for the Emag... but I haven't found it. I've found questions and answers on minor issues on various forums, but even the AGD manual for the Emag is just 4 pages. Is there somewhere that information is compiled on this marker, and the various aftermarket upgrades? Like, a "Everything you would ever need to know about the Emag - Questions you didn't even know to ask" thread or something?

[OneSelfLost]

Good question! I am going to take a stab at writing something up. Probably won't be as complete and concise as most (lol) would like. If you have XMOD installed, the xmod manual is awesome, very informative!

[OneSelfLost]

Here is what I have so far. Please feel free to add anything.

Troubleshooting:

Leaking down barrel (trigger in home position) – Leaky powertube o-ring / Level 10 carrier too large.

Leaking down barrel (Trigger pulled and held) – Leaky on/off o-ring (top).

Bolt stick (won't fire) – Turn up your velocity, check your LVL 10 carrier isn't too small, try a light main spring.

Won't fire in E-mode – Make sure your battery is fully charged, check the solenoid is clicking, lube your on/off o-rings and the quad o-ring, make sure your ACE is turned OFF.

Won't power on - Make sure your battery is fully charged, check the main wire to the board, tighten the screw holding the board to the frame (as it is ground). Visually inspect for damaged components to the board.

Maintenance and Care:

Lubricate the on/off before and after every day of play to ensure that the o-rings will not become damaged or cause friction related problems, such as missing shots. Also, add a few drops of oil inside the air connection at the valve and fire a few shots to run the oil through. This connection is commonly called the quick disconnect (QD), macroline connector, or simply the air connection.

Be sure to use synthetic paintball-grade lubricant or you will damage your o-rings.

Only charge your battery when it needs to, do not charge it before every day of play. Despite the fact that nickel metal hydride batteries are known for not retaining a “memory”, they should still be discharged before recharging. However, nickel metal hydride batteries, when not used more than 6 months at a time, can go into a “deep-discharge” state, in which case the battery will not be able to charge and will need to be replaced. You will be safe to 'top up' the battery after longer periods of not being used, just try not to leave it for too long.

E-mag's circuit board can become damaged at high rates of fire. The E-mag is capable of 31 BPS, however, it is not recommended (nor is it necessary) to shoot at such high rates of fire. What happens is that the motion of the solenoid can cause very high voltage spikes, which will damage the circuit board. With a high rate of fire, these voltage spikes can add on top of each other, creating larger and larger spikes.

Too high of an input pressure can also cause damage to the circuit board. Many E-mag users increase the input pressure to achieve the RT effect when shooting in mechanical or hybrid mode. The high rates of fire can cause damage to the circuit board for the same reason explained above, voltage spikes.

The E-mag is NOT compatible with the Ultralight trigger (ULT) upgrade. Having this installed will cause damage to the sear, ULT, and possibly the valve.

Upgrades:

E-mags, like most Airgun Designs products, are modular and completely customizable. Common upgrades include:

Ultralight Engineering (ULE) mainbodies
X – valve
Aftermarket bodies and rails
ULE milling of most parts on the marker
Warp feed

Warp Feed:

When using a warp feed connection to your E-mag, a jumper inside the warp feed must be relocated in order for the warp feed to advance when the trigger is pulled. Please consult the warp feed manual available on the Airgun Designs website.

[athomas]

A few things to add if you want them.

Won't fire: Check that the trigger magnet is not reversed

Garbage on the display when you turn on the electronics: Trigger magnet too close to the HES

board won't power up. check the grounding screw hole for corrosion or excessive anodizing.

Full auto effect when firing in electronic mode with shot buffering (higher versions of software only): make sure the solenoid wires are connected with the proper polarity. ie reverse them and see if the problem goes away.

Emag generally won't achieve 31 bps. It has a hard time reaching anywhere near what the retro/X valve will cycle at due to the mass of the solenoid plunger.

Voltage spikes due to the solenoid coil are dependent on the rate of change. Therefore, a higher input pressure could theoretically cause a higher induced spike due to the fast sear return. You can protect against these spikes by placing a reverse biased schottky diode across the solenoid leads. That gives the current a path back to the solenoid without achieving high voltages across the electronics on the board.

For batteries: Always keep them topped up. A battery will develop oxidization on the electrodes if they are stored for periods of time at a reduced charge. This oxidization will reduce the batteries ability to deliver high levels of current.

[OneSelfLost]

Cool, thanks for the extra info

[MingusX]

http://www.automagsuk.com/emagandxmag.html

Lots of info.