Slow Recharge

[jrod]

Yet another slow recharge thread...

So I was tuning a new to me Automag with X Valve and Level 10 and RT on/off. I was getting a little bolt stick. So I went up to the biggest carrier that didn't leak (no shims).

While dry firing, it just seemed really slow. After a couple of rapid shots, the marker seemed to recharge really slow. There was some chuffing, some minor bolt stick, and a mushy trigger response. I was using a tank that output about 850 psi (maybe a little less). I did notice that the air gauge on the ASA would drop to 650 and then climb back to 850 (took a second maybe).

My first thought was the automag's regulator. So I stripped the entire valve, cleaned everything, replaced o-rings (not the carrier o-ring), and put it back together. I was still getting slow recharge.

As a last resort, I switched tanks. My current tank has a no-name reg. I switched to an older tank with a crossfire reg. It was like night and day. Does this make sense? I've already ordered a Ninja reg for my 4500 tank. I figure I'll shim it up and try for at least 900 psi. Am I on the right track?

I don't want to go too high. I do use the tank for my other markers (Autococker and an Ego). As long as I have a regulator on both of these markers, I shouldn't have to worry about ruining anything, should I??

Sorry for the long post, but I appreciate any feedback.

[Ando]

It's either your reg going bad or your ASA. Some ASA can push the reg pin in too far causing it to partly close the airflow.

[Olsson]

Before you start tinkering with your reg, just as Ando said - make sure is isn't your ASA causing the trouble. I have seen a lot of shoot downs on several markers due to the ASA depressing the reg pin in the tank too much.

Are you using a remote? In my experience the on/off on a remote can quite often be depressed quite far, causing the valve pin to depress too far, with starvation as a result. Quite a lot of players at my field have habitually put a tank o-ring as a spacer inside the remote's ASA, to make sure that they're not depressing the valve pin too far.

Bit of a rant. Bottom line - check your ASA.

[Hobbez]

Check your entire airline, not just your ASA. I went through literally months of fighting and fighting with my wife's classic last year. I was about to give up and get her a different valve when I noticed a little bit of tefon tape just in the hole where your airline goes into the valve, right behind the valvle pin/spring. Once that was removed it was like a new valve.

[SeeK]

Before you start tinkering with your reg, just as Ando said - make sure is isn't your ASA causing the trouble. I have seen a lot of shoot downs on several markers due to the ASA depressing the reg pin in the tank too much.

Are you using a remote? In my experience the on/off on a remote can quite often be depressed quite far, causing the valve pin to depress too far, with starvation as a result. Quite a lot of players at my field have habitually put a tank o-ring as a spacer inside the remote's ASA, to make sure that they're not depressing the valve pin too far.

Bit of a rant. Bottom line - check your ASA.

You can confirm this by unscrewing it 1/4 to 1/2 turn. If it fixes the problem just drop a tank oring in there to prevent it from being screwed in too far.

[athomas]

I did notice that the air gauge on the ASA would drop to 650 and then climb back to 850 (took a second maybe).This is an indication that the problem is with the bottle regulator. It could be that the pin is depressed too far or not far enough, or possibly a bad oring in the bottle regulator itself.