Oops...

[Wiscoballer]

Hey guys,

I had an extra hour and a half after class today, so I grabbed my emag rail, and went to the engineering building. I saw Luke's ULE milling on them, and wanted to duplicate it. While it looks great, and weighs about half of what it did before, I managed to mill across where the sear pin crosses. There is a bit of the channel still left, but I am worried that there is not enough, ant that my sear will wobble left/right. I have a fix for this that I am working on, but I was wondering if I am right, and need to fix this, or if the sear should balance itself.

[luke]

Can you post a close up picture of what you're talking about?

[Ando]

The slit in the body should keep it lined up. If all else fails just find some bushing to put on the sides of it.

[Wiscoballer]

Can you post a close up picture of what you're talking about?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/53181188@N04/6893075963/

The little black notches in the milled surface are what are left of the channels

If the picture doesn't work for you, like it doesn't for me, you can view the photo at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/53181188@N04/6893075963/

[Wiscoballer]

that pic doesnt work for me either, but you can view it from my link.

[OPBN]

Yeah, not sure why. Sometimes people try to just post the link instead of clicking on the insert image icon. Try using Photobucket instead. May be because the "all rights reserved" option is being used?

As far as whether is would cause issue, I'm not sure honestly. I would think as long as you had the opposing hole that the sear pin rests in that it may be ok. You still have the slot on the bottom to keep it in line.

[knownothingmags]

clean mill.
i would say if you can make a bushing or what i would do since i have it is make a bunch of carbon fiber bushings out of carbonfiber sheet. but thats an idea in its self.

[luke]

Since its a screw in sear pin, it should still work.

[Justus]

What about the sear wobbling back and forth on the pin? Will that not happen with the small amount of material left for the sear slot at the bottom?

[luke]

The bottom of the bushing should be held in place with what is left of the rail, wont need much..

[BiNumber3]

U can also use quiksteel or similar, putty that hardens, $5 or so at an auto store, quick easy cheap
If u need to that is

[Wiscoballer]

thats one of the two options im considering (was going to use JB tho)

[Ando]

I would go with bushings. If you decide to anno it later your going to be having to bust JB out.

[Hobbez]

Just cut yourself two short pieces of macro and slide them on the pin as bushings. Even if they wear out in a season, itll cost you like 1/2 a penny in macro and 5 mins in time to replace them.

[Ando]

Look at the big brain on Hobbez :cheers:

[athomas]

U can also use quiksteel or similar, putty that hardens, $5 or so at an auto store, quick easy cheap
If u need to that isThis seems like a likely solution.

Not seeing the other side of the rail, I can't determine if the end of the pin is held down or allowed to float in the sear pin groove. If the pin is secure in that it can't move up and down, then it should be fine. You won't need shims or bushings on the side, because the rail is still there on the bottom half of the sear pin. The sear won't be able to move from side to side. If the pin can float up out of the groove, then you will need something to hold it down. You can use JB weld or make an aluminum block that you can bolt down over the left side of the sear pin. You can drill it out after it is fastened down using a drill size that is the same as the size of the sear pin. That way the sear pin will be totally secure.