Rail whith picatiny mount for Tac one?

[MingusX]

I was just thinking why no one have made a E-mag length rail with piccatiny mount in the front.
That would have been perfect for a Tac-one.

[Darring D]

I think the new Tac-one rails have that mount in front of the foregrip:

Look here: (http://www.onlinepaintball.com/ab1038101equick/shopexd.asp?id=7919)

[luke]

I was just thinking why no one have made a E-mag length rail with piccatiny mount in the front.
That would have been perfect for a Tac-one.

I would make some if there was a demand for them.
Do you have a drawing of what you had in mind?

[Spider-TW]

I think the new Tac-one rails have that mount in front of the foregrip:

Look here: (http://www.onlinepaintball.com/ab1038101equick/shopexd.asp?id=7919)

That dove tail is about big enough to mount a single scope ring. It might be a good place to stack a sizable rail (that went forward) and secure it with set screws on the bottom.

[Fox_mini]

I think the new Tac-one rails have that mount in front of the foregrip:

Look here: (http://www.onlinepaintball.com/ab1038101equick/shopexd.asp?id=7919)

I have brand new tac one that I ordered last month at agd and the rail is not like that! Sorry I don't have pics on hand!

[BiNumber3]

Ive seen a few tacs where they mounted a rail in front, might be easier to go that route, plus you'd get to choose the length of the rail to mount.

[Justus]

Jason Finnie's Tac (Pic pulled from MCB) has a picatinny rail on the bottom:

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/2238/p1010194up.jpg

[MingusX]

[QUOTE=Justus]Jason Finnie's Tac (Pic pulled from MCB) has a picatinny rail on the bottom:

Yes it was that picture that made me think about it.
Not just a attached picatinny rail,but a mount milled in the mag rail
With so many different custom rails out there i think it's strange that it hasn't been done as far as i know.
There i more than 2 inches in front of the frame on a E-mag rail so there is room for it, and i thought it would look really good with a tac-one body.

[Fox_mini]

In fact that would be really nice and clean! If someone have the intention of making some of those keep me informed as I will be interested in buying one of those!!!

[jaysonmauer_xo]

I'd buy one too.

[Swampy]

I'd look into into one like pictured above but as one piece.

Need something for my tac - 2 project.

[OPBN]

Luke.... Calling Luke.....

[bbotts77]

This would be sweet for mounting a Metadyne (or similar) launcher.

[luke]

Luke.... Calling Luke.....

If you guys want to put some concepts together and decide on a final, I'll make some. I dont need CAD drawings, sketches are fine (A basic over-all length would help). :cool:

[finnmanpa]

Jason Finnie's Tac (Pic pulled from MCB) has a picatinny rail on the bottom:

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/2238/p1010194up.jpg

Hey guys, yeah that's my mag. Luke actually made that rail extension for me. I sent him a drawing, some rough specs, a sample of a picatinny rail, and the grips. Not long afterwards I had this nice foregrip.

Works awesome. Much more comfortable for me as i can move the grip to or fro depending on how I feel. I have 2 different grips I switch between, and I can slide the grip back to mount lights or stuff in the front.

[luke]

If you guys want to put some concepts together and decide on a final, I'll make some. I dont need CAD drawings, sketches are fine (A basic over-all length would help). :cool:


No interest huh?

[Swampy]

I want to but been busy with spring start up.

[Hobbez]

Would it be possible to mill about 1.5" of picatinny rail into the bottom front of an RT length rail? I think thats what most folks are interested in.

[luke]

Sure that's easy, what do you want the rest to look like?

[bbotts77]

If you were to design a new rail with this in mind, I would make it similar to the longbow-ready tac rail, so it is the same length of the standard tac-one body and add the picatiny rail stuff to it.

As far as the side milling is concerned, I'd say just make it look like it should be on a tac-one. I was thinking it would be neat to add side picatiny rail pieces to the rail with that hug the body in front of the feedneck, but that would get expensive with all the material you'd have to cut out for something like that.

[bbotts77]

The rail in this picture is similar to what I had in mind for a new tac rail. The only changes I would make to this rail would be the front would line up flush with the front of the body, without that angle cut out of it. Of course the addition of the picatiny rail on the under-side of the front of the rail, too.

http://automags.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2799833&postcount=6

[esperto96]

Ive seen a few tacs where they mounted a rail in front, might be easier to go that route, plus you'd get to choose the length of the rail to mount.

I'm one of those who mounted a rail on the front. I then have a quick release/adjustable tactical fore-grip attached instead of the bicycle grip. Mine's a rather long rail and doesn't sit flush the front of the gun. It pokes out quite a ways and has that odd gap between the rail and the barrel for a few inches.

[river031403]

bump this would be nice to mount my gopro camera to

[Fatalis]

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/GotSmilodon/2012-07-10_16-12-39_578.jpg

I purchased the magpul foregrip and it came with a 2" pic rail. I just mod'd the rail to fit the holes in the rail... and presto. It is out at ano right now, but will post a finished product soon.

NOTE: I went with the non-air thru stock version of the T2W, instead of the one pictured so I could have the tank on the marker.

[river031403]

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/river031403/4950C7C5-F26B-42FC-947E-E1C94EED84B5-834-0000005818AF8784.jpg

[bbotts77]

I was just thinking about this thread, earlier today. I know Luke is currently working on something else right now. Maybe this will get picked up again after the other projects.

[GoatBoy]

http://www.shapeways.com/model/683130/picatinny-example.html

[bbotts77]

http://www.shapeways.com/model/683130/picatinny-example.html
I'm actually thinking it would be nice to sink the picatinny rail into the rail, so it sits closer to the body. Then, we could have a flat piece that slides over the picatinny rail and is secured by the (RT-style) foregrip mount screws, so it sits flush with the rest of the rail. This way, you could switch between picatinny and standard foregrip if you wanted to. I'm attempting to draw it up in eMachineShop's "CAD" program, but it's taking me a while to draw the cuts and get them right.

[GoatBoy]

I'm actually thinking it would be nice to sink the picatinny rail into the rail, so it sits closer to the body. Then, we could have a flat piece that slides over the picatinny rail and is secured by the (RT-style) foregrip mount screws, so it sits flush with the rest of the rail. This way, you could switch between picatinny and standard foregrip if you wanted to. I'm attempting to draw it up in eMachineShop's "CAD" program, but it's taking me a while to draw the cuts and get them right.

Can’t see what you’re saying. Literally.

I’ve never used eMachineShop’s “CAD” program (looks like it’s a solid modeler), but it took me like a minute to find and download the parametric picatinny OpenSCAD file from thingiverse, set it to 5 segments or whatever, render it, import it into Sketchup and slap it onto my rail.

Drawing picatinny rails is probably about as fun as... drawing screw threads...

My example is up on Shapeways for a reason. My next rail isn't going to be milled...

[Ando]

Bbotts idea is ballz on to what i was thinking about getting made before I said screw it and just purchased a 2inch rail and just retrofitted it to the emag rail.

It's the same same either way.

Edit:

Goat...he's talking about creating a plate that would sit in the groves of the pica rail that would create a flat surface so you would be able to switch over to a standard foregrip setup.

[river031403]

I was thinking of sending my slug rail to luke have him do the ule milling and one of the designs he offers and at the end have him mill picatiny into it Emag length tails seem long enough so you can have in this order
Grip frame
Forgrip
Picatiny milling

[bbotts77]

Can’t see what you’re saying. Literally.

I’ve never used eMachineShop’s “CAD” program (looks like it’s a solid modeler), but it took me like a minute to find and download the parametric picatinny OpenSCAD file from thingiverse, set it to 5 segments or whatever, render it, import it into Sketchup and slap it onto my rail.

Drawing picatinny rails is probably about as fun as... drawing screw threads...

My example is up on Shapeways for a reason. My next rail isn't going to be milled...
Please, forgive my ignorance on the subject modeling. My only experience with it was building a female input fitting for the Tickler LPRs. That was easy.

Being that I have no formal training and very limited experience with modelling, I don't want to spend a big chunk of change on software and really don't know much about it. I didn't realize you can import objects into drawings.

Last night, I was attempting to model a rail with a physical rail and calipers. It's a lot more difficult than a fitting, where everything is round (or hex) and easily measured.

Anyway, what I was saying is, rather than add material to the rail for the picatinny rail, it would be nice to remove material from a non-ULE rail for the picatinny rail.

So, if you are going to have the rail 3d printed, what material are you going to use? I would be concerned about mounting anything to a rail made out of most of the materials they have available.

[GoatBoy]

Please, forgive my ignorance on the subject modeling. My only experience with it was building a female input fitting for the Tickler LPRs. That was easy.

Being that I have no formal training and very limited experience with modelling, I don't want to spend a big chunk of change on software and really don't know much about it. I didn't realize you can import objects into drawings.

Last night, I was attempting to model a rail with a physical rail and calipers. It's a lot more difficult than a fitting, where everything is round (or hex) and easily measured.

No problem; I’m just telling you that there is a better way to do some of this so you don’t waste too much time. I don’t have any training either. But with 3d printing becoming more common, there’s been more incentive for me to learn this stuff. There’s kind of this sadistic attitude floating about where people actually encourage others to waste time doing stuff like reinventing the square wheel in CAD.

Drawing stuff sucks (IMO), so take reasonable shortcuts wherever possible.

All the software I use is free. (Sketchup, Draftsight, Openscad.)


Anyway, what I was saying is, rather than add material to the rail for the picatinny rail, it would be nice to remove material from a non-ULE rail for the picatinny rail.

I can understand removing material from a non-ULE rail to get a picatinny basically flush with the bottom of the rail itself; I guess I don’t understand the method you’re using to “go back” to the RT foregrip, which involves that forward steel mounting plate and the 6 frame holes?

I’d just ditch that altogether, put the two-hole pattern right through part of the picatinny rails themselves and be done with it.


So, if you are going to have the rail 3d printed, what material are you going to use? I would be concerned about mounting anything to a rail made out of most of the materials they have available.

Nylon. I think it will be strong and accurate enough for this part, but I guess there’s only one way to find out.

I printed a mag2cocker adapter already in nylon, and it works great. I calculated the weight for the rail that I linked to be about 1.3oz, which is lighter than any aluminum ULE milled rail at least in my possession. And this is a full-length rail with picatinny rails I’m talking about.

[bbotts77]

No problem; I’m just telling you that there is a better way to do some of this so you don’t waste too much time. I don’t have any training either. But with 3d printing becoming more common, there’s been more incentive for me to learn this stuff. There’s kind of this sadistic attitude floating about where people actually encourage others to waste time doing stuff like reinventing the square wheel in CAD.

Drawing stuff sucks (IMO), so take reasonable shortcuts wherever possible.

All the software I use is free. (Sketchup, Draftsight, Openscad.)

Cool. Thanks for the info on the tools you use. Being a DBA and amateur programmer, I really like the concept of OpenSCAD. It will probably take a little bit to get used to the language. But, it looks like fun.



I can understand removing material from a non-ULE rail to get a picatinny basically flush with the bottom of the rail itself; I guess I don’t understand the method you’re using to “go back” to the RT foregrip, which involves that forward steel mounting plate and the 6 frame holes?

I’d just ditch that altogether, put the two-hole pattern right through part of the picatinny rails themselves and be done with it.

I'm actually talking about milling the picatinny so it sits higher than flush with the bottom of the rail, so it can be completely covered with a sleeve. The bottom of the sleeve would sit flush with the bottom and sides of the rail and the two RTP foregrip screws would hold it in place with the foregrip.



Nylon. I think it will be strong and accurate enough for this part, but I guess there’s only one way to find out.

I printed a mag2cocker adapter already in nylon, and it works great. I calculated the weight for the rail that I linked to be about 1.3oz, which is lighter than any aluminum ULE milled rail at least in my possession. And this is a full-length rail with picatinny rails I’m talking about.
very cool. Let us know how that works out for you.

Now, I just need to figure out all this fun new software.

[luke]

:) Has everyone forgotten that it may take far less time just to draft the idea on paper; it’s real simple to draw the top, bottom and side views. Bust out the paper, rulers and pencils and go to work. When I was in school (In wood shop) you couldn’t build anything until you had full set of drafted plans and a bill of materials to be then taken to the office to pay for everything involved. If anything was incorrect on your drawings or bill of materials the shop teacher would make you start over again, you built nothing unless the paperwork was correct. That was in the 7th grade, do they teach this anymore? It should be real easy to come up with a basic set of drawings. :D

[Swampy]

:) Has everyone forgotten that it may take far less time just to draft the idea on paper; it’s real simple to draw the top, bottom and side views. Bust out the paper, rulers and pencils and go to work. When I was in school (In wood shop) you couldn’t build anything until you had full set of drafted plans and a bill of materials to be then taken to the office to pay for everything involved. If anything was incorrect on your drawings or bill of materials the shop teacher would make you start over again, you built nothing unless the paperwork was correct. That was in the 7th grade, do they teach this anymore? It should be real easy to come up with a basic set of drawings. :D

Not everyone. Never use'd to do design work at all until I had a customer that asked to put something on paper, kind of caught on and started to offer it.

Never used any "CAD" type programs all paper, pencils, and a eraser. Honestly generations before used those tools before a computer was even thought about.

[bbotts77]

:) Has everyone forgotten that it may take far less time just to draft the idea on paper; it’s real simple to draw the top, bottom and side views. Bust out the paper, rulers and pencils and go to work. When I was in school (In wood shop) you couldn’t build anything until you had full set of drafted plans and a bill of materials to be then taken to the office to pay for everything involved. If anything was incorrect on your drawings or bill of materials the shop teacher would make you start over again, you built nothing unless the paperwork was correct. That was in the 7th grade, do they teach this anymore? It should be real easy to come up with a basic set of drawings. :D
I dropped drafting to do an independent study in C++. But that was almost 20 years ago. So, I don't know what they teach now.

I'm really just playing with the software to play with the software and learn. I'm in no huge hurry to get this rail. I mean it's something I'd love to have for scenario games. But, that's only a few times a year, anyway.

If I get to the point of wanting it now, I'll draw something on paper.

[luke]

Not everyone. Never use'd to do design work at all until I had a customer that asked to put something on paper, kind of caught on and started to offer it.

Never used any "CAD" type programs all paper, pencils, and a eraser. Honestly generations before used those tools before a computer was even thought about.

:)

I have designed and made hundreds (more like thousands, but it sounds like an exaggeration) of parts without ever putting a design on paper or in a cad program. Most of the paintball parts and mods I’ve done in the past 10 years or so were designed while standing in front of the milling machine; most were done without ever doing a prototype. Granted most of that stuff was not real complex but I’ve been making stuff since I was a kid and can figure out most stuff in my head first, which really is the first step anyway.

CADs or hand drafted drawings are necessary if you have an idea you want to relay to a machinist or CAD designer. For most designers a hand drafted plan is enough to get the part modeled. ;)

Really my only point is a ruler, piece of paper and a pencil goes a long way to get an idea across.

:cool:

[GoatBoy]

The wonderful thing about high school, for most people, is the fact that it ends.

There are many benefits to drawing things up in CAD.

The primary one is "sharing".

I can share these CAD files with others, and they can manipulate and build upon them if they want. So that they don't have to waste their time redrawing what you just drew up in order to make something new and interesting.

You are either behind this idea or against it, and everything flows from there down.

[luke]

IF you have CAD available to you and know how to use it, it's a powerful tool. :cool:

[GoatBoy]

What was that quote from Watchmen?

"I would only agree that a symbolic clock is as nourishing to the intellect as photograph of oxygen to a drowning man."


The tools are free, so clearly it's a matter of skill.

I sat down and taught myself how to actually draw something in Openscad yesterday evening (instead of just using other people's libraries) and converted my mag2cocker adapter, which went very, very smoothly. Far more smoothly than trying to intersect curved surfaces in Sketchup, which is a nightmare.

So I started on a rail tonight:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-86UsAmpRSg8/UEbQ4UMbkdI/AAAAAAAAFPU/DBeQ8UmcOMA/s1600/openscad_rtp_rail_start.png

Sample code snippet is shown for the body cutout.

[GoatBoy]

So after a little bit of tweaking, I can pop out multiple versions of rails at will now.

It all starts out with the super basic rail chunk with the minimum cutouts:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rTMm5-3GsSY/UEgABFyP9xI/AAAAAAAAFP4/h3MFQS7BZP4/s1600/super_basic_rail.png

So I can add the cuts to make it more like a stock RTP rail (minus wings; none of my stuff has those stupid wings), plus a warp left notch:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IdlBzda2CzU/UEgABwywHiI/AAAAAAAAFQI/wII5na3v69U/s1600/warp_rail.png

Really, the rail I'm after is something like this uber ULE rail with the pim converted to a classic, and accepts a classic vertical ASA:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gNYgNBlfJCA/UEgABrqDsFI/AAAAAAAAFQA/BZKIlU77Yuo/s1600/uber_rail.png

Just for giggles I did the Picatinny on a stock rail, roughly as described earlier; has clearance at the bottom so you could fit a plate over the whole deal. Again, I didn't draw the Picatinny, I straight instantiated it from another openscad library. I think the idea is a bit fruity and really interesting only as a CAD exercise:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4P57C2moXb0/UEgAAapfj5I/AAAAAAAAFPo/WoF60O6QMVw/s1600/pic_stock.png

And I went ahead and cut-and-pasted my ULE and the warp left cuts over to this module for funsies:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NPKAOV0tlqk/UEgAA6OkV6I/AAAAAAAAFPw/dcCFnrQRG-8/s1600/pic_ule.png

Pretty much any permutation between these is a cut-and-paste operation... in a text editor.

Seeing as it's all text (235 lines for everything combined), I went ahead and checked it all into a git repo, just in case.

[bbotts77]

So after a little bit of tweaking, I can pop out multiple versions of rails at will now.

Just for giggles I did the Picatinny on a stock rail, roughly as described earlier; has clearance at the bottom so you could fit a plate over the whole deal. Again, I didn't draw the Picatinny, I straight instantiated it from another openscad library. I think the idea is a bit fruity and really interesting only as a CAD exercise:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4P57C2moXb0/UEgAAapfj5I/AAAAAAAAFPo/WoF60O6QMVw/s1600/pic_stock.png

And I went ahead and cut-and-pasted my ULE and the warp left cuts over to this module for funsies:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NPKAOV0tlqk/UEgAA6OkV6I/AAAAAAAAFPw/dcCFnrQRG-8/s1600/pic_ule.png

Pretty much any permutation between these is a cut-and-paste operation... in a text editor.

Seeing as it's all text (235 lines for everything combined), I went ahead and checked it all into a git repo, just in case.
Thanks for chunking this together. As fruity as the design may seem, I think it would be fun to be able to mount a havoc launcher to my mag for scenario games. :D

[jaguarshark]

Sorry to dig this up from the abyss, but has there been any follow up on this? I'm interested in an extended picatinny rail for an emag to accommodate an angled foregrip like so:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7941639/foregrip.jpg

[Syko89]

I was thinking about it and might want to look at picatinny rails with ring clamps designed to mount on a scope. Just measure you barrel and look for ring clamps that size

[GoatBoy]

Typical cocker barrel will have at least some point which is 1" in diameter.

https://images2.sw-cdn.net/model/picture/625x465_1475489_1632690_1384501317.jpg

[crudeidol]

I got to thinking about this too actually. Would be cool to have an AM/MM style Rail that's extended out, say to Minimag Body length, with the veritcal ASA in the normal place, just in front of the trigger frame, but have the rail continue with pic rail to the end of the MM body.. I'll try to sketch something up a little later to convey this better.

I'm not an artist.
89790

[river031403]

So after a little bit of tweaking, I can pop out multiple versions of rails at will now.

It all starts out with the super basic rail chunk with the minimum cutouts:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rTMm5-3GsSY/UEgABFyP9xI/AAAAAAAAFP4/h3MFQS7BZP4/s1600/super_basic_rail.png

So I can add the cuts to make it more like a stock RTP rail (minus wings; none of my stuff has those stupid wings), plus a warp left notch:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IdlBzda2CzU/UEgABwywHiI/AAAAAAAAFQI/wII5na3v69U/s1600/warp_rail.png

Really, the rail I'm after is something like this uber ULE rail with the pim converted to a classic, and accepts a classic vertical ASA:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gNYgNBlfJCA/UEgABrqDsFI/AAAAAAAAFQA/BZKIlU77Yuo/s1600/uber_rail.png

Just for giggles I did the Picatinny on a stock rail, roughly as described earlier; has clearance at the bottom so you could fit a plate over the whole deal. Again, I didn't draw the Picatinny, I straight instantiated it from another openscad library. I think the idea is a bit fruity and really interesting only as a CAD exercise:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4P57C2moXb0/UEgAAapfj5I/AAAAAAAAFPo/WoF60O6QMVw/s1600/pic_stock.png

And I went ahead and cut-and-pasted my ULE and the warp left cuts over to this module for funsies:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NPKAOV0tlqk/UEgAA6OkV6I/AAAAAAAAFPw/dcCFnrQRG-8/s1600/pic_ule.png

Pretty much any permutation between these is a cut-and-paste operation... in a text editor.

Seeing as it's all text (235 lines for everything combined), I went ahead and checked it all into a git repo, just in case.

Any chance you could print a black working model of this?? I need one

[TheJackal28]

I'm going to leave this right here

92200

[GoatBoy]

Any chance you could print a black working model of this?? I need one

Uh, actually I can't personally print one because it exceeds the printable area of my printer. I can't even print a standard sized rail, much less an RTP sized one. Might need someone else to hook you up.

If you just want a rail on the front underside of your gun there are probably other ways to accomplish that though... should state what you're trying to do.

Maybe TheJackal28 can hook you up... He's got some interesting stuff as well.


TheJackal28, did you get my email? I responded, dunno if it got spam filtered though.

[going_home]

Theres quite a few different lengths picatinny rail on eBay.

[Justus]

For prototyping, if you wanted to get something done quickly, you could just hack a chunk off the bottom front of a standard RTP rail, and then drill/tap a couple screw holes and bolt a piece of picatinny to it. It wouldn't look polished by any means, but the cost would be low to see if something like that would be functional.

[Pudgey51]

I'm going to leave this right here

92200

edit: took a closer look, looks like you mounted your fore grip directly to the rail. Very nice.

[ghost flanker]

I made this picatinny foregrip mount when I was a kid.
92241

I would've loved to have had and a mag rail with a built-in picatinny at the front, but this sufficed for years.

[TheJackal28]

No I mounted a rail coming of the rt and mounted a shroud on the end of the tac rail. The picatinny rail I used was a jcs tac rail that is 6 inches long

[TheJackal28]

92246

[Pudgey51]

Ah I see. Very nice