New EMAG PROBLEMS. Plz help me.

[Chris TS-1438]

I just picked this EMAG up. And have some problems.

1. When I put air through it.. It rt"d till the tank was empty. Why? ( I noticed that the valve was screwed as tight as it would go... Could this be the cause? By this I mean that the velocity adjustment was tightened.

2. The level ten bolt rubbe washer ( the rubber price that the bolt sits against) was stuck to the valve and was sticky. Like it wa glued...normal?

3. The electronics do not even light up. What should I check first. The battery doesn't look like an Agd battery. What should it look like? It does fit on the charger. The board doesn't appear to have any visible damage. Advice?

4. The reg springs seem a bit worn and had a very small amount of sticky grease in them.

Doing this from my phone. I'll try and get pics up later.

<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/72/chrisphoto009.jpg/" target="_blank"><img src="http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/2002/chrisphoto009.th.jpg" border="0"/></a>

this might be why the battery doesnt seem to be charged. oddly enough the light on the charger still glows green. none of the wire are connected.

another question i have is...around the middle of the board. should their be a little plug in loop. looks to be jumping to wires. is this stock...or a burst/auto jumper?

[Ando]

I just picked this EMAG up. And have some problems.

1. When I put air through it.. It rt"d till the tank was empty. Why? ( I noticed that the valve was screwed as tight as it would go... Could this be the cause? By this I mean that the velocity adjustment was tightened.

The velocity screwed in wouldn't have caused the full auto. It would have cause it to shoot hot but not full auto. Did you pull the valve apart and inspect everything, manually lube everything, replace orings? It could have been set to full auto and the magnet for the hall sensor was too close which would actuate the marker. Another thing would have been a bad sear, missing sear or sear pin.

2. The level ten bolt rubbe washer ( the rubber price that the bolt sits against) was stuck to the valve and was sticky. Like it wa glued...normal?

Not normal. The lvl 10 bumpers after time will brake down and gum up. Probably what happen to that one. Just replace it.

3. The electronics do not even light up. What should I check first. The battery doesn't look like an Agd battery. What should it look like? It does fit on the charger. The board doesn't appear to have any visible damage. Advice?

This could be quite a few things.

1. Bad battery. Charge it for a day and put it on a multi-meter. Fully charged right off the charger it should read 18v give or take.

2. Bad ground. Open the grips. You'll see one screw holding down the board. removed it and run a 4-40 tap down it. That will clean the threads from any corrosion and give you a good ground.

3. Magnet to close to the hall sensor. You'll see a set screw at the center of the trigger. Move it away (turn left) from the hall sensor and see what you get.

There's a few other things but those are the normal issues that pop up all the time.

4. The reg springs seem a bit worn and had a very small amount of sticky grease in them.

Doing this from my phone. I'll try and get pics up later.

There's no way you can tell my eyeballing it. The spring should have something coating them. That is normal.

Pics of everything would be great.

....In red

[Tropical Life]

Hi,

1) I do recommend turning the valve out some and them increasing your velocity.The reason the gun rt'd all the air out is due to something wrong with your on/off in the valve its remaining in the open position, cant be your electronics since they are dead atm. I recommend lubing it some, also check the orings. Make sure you have a .712 pin

2)The rubber wash sounds normal, except the glue stuff.

3)Before you mess with the electronics tune the marker in manual 1st. Some pics would be nice to see what battery you have going on.

4)You might want to get a gold spring to get started the red is a high tension spring. Look up the difference in springs and decide what you like down the line.

Thats all I can tell you for now off your description, sure some members will chime in also to help you. Good Luck

[athomas]

Yes, first thing you want to do is give the valve a good cleaning and inspect all the orings. If you have an oring kit it would be best to replace all the orings so they are new. That way you know what you are dealing with from the start since it is a new to you gun. There should be no lubricant of any kind on the bolt spring. Lubricant here only causes oil/grease build up inside the barrel and causes inaccuracies.

The bolt bumper glued to the front of the valve is something that was often done to prevent tearing of the bumper when using level 10 bolts.

[Chris TS-1438]

those pics might help with a prognosis.

[athomas]

The jumper on the board activates the 3 and 6 shot burst modes for AGD firmware. What version is installed on your emag?

[Tropical Life]

The emag charger looks like someone played techie with it dont waste your time. Get one like the below pic or ask in misc sell section if anyone has a oem emag charger for sale.

http://i39.tinypic.com/xfx4sn.jpg

[Chris TS-1438]

I have solved the electronics issue. I resold seed some fresh wire to the board. It works as far as I can tell. But my battery doesn't want to charge very much. I can get it to charge a little longer each time but it only carries enough power to barely click the noir and run the electronics.

Firmware is 1.8 something.

I am very concerned about the valve. I want to find out why it rted like it did without a trigger pull.

[Ando]

Replace all the orings and manually oil everything.

Put it in a mech frame

Completely tune the valve

Buy a new battery

Make sure your plunger and sear rod are set correctly

Slap it back together and see what you get. There's nothing hard about tuning. You just need to know how to do it.

[Chris TS-1438]

I don't have a sear for a mech frame. I blew the valve apart. Oiled every thing , all the orings were perfect. Aired it up and it still cycled till the tank was empty. Could this be a level ten issue?
Or a sear issue. Wht is my action from here?

[Ando]

Hmm...Pull your battery. See if it goes full auto. If it does then you know it's not electrical :rolleyes:

Use this to verify everything is in your valve.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk300/jbonot/AGD%20Tech%20Support/xvalveexplodedff7.gif


Make sure you have your sear installed along with the plunger and sear rod.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk300/jbonot/AGD%20Tech%20Support/Xmag2.gif

And make sure the tip of your sear doesn't look like this
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk300/jbonot/Untitled-1.jpg

[Chris TS-1438]

#22 was missing. would that do it? is this something I can find anywhere?

[Ando]

Dude. Get yourself a rebuild kit. Since you have a lvl 10. Get a X-Valve kit and yes that oring is important.

What type of valve do you have BTW? If it's a half steel / alumium type then you more then likely won't have oring #23 but they all have #22.

It was either going to be a missing or bad on/off oring like you have, your pin valve assy orings were bad or a bad sear causing the full auto. This is the reason why you rebuild valves you get from other people. To find things like this and keep yourself from chasing your tale around troubleshooting it.

[OPBN]

Actually, if its an Emag, it shouldnt have 22 or 23, but a quad O-ring instead. That is a ULT on/off, I would think he should have just an RT on/off. This is what should be there:

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.prodInfo&prodId=1938

[Justus]

That's an RT on/off shown, not a ULT. And the early Emags didn't come with the quad o-ring, they used a urethane o-ring and a slightly longer pin (.726 I believe?). Later AGD changed to the quad o-ring and the .712 pin. So conceivably, depending on what his valve is and how old it is, it could have come with the urethane ring.

Pull the on/off pin and measure it with a set of calipers. If it's .712, then you need to order some quad o-rings with the X-valve rebuild kit. (And if it's longer than .712 you might want to order the quad o-rings anyway, along with a shorter on/off pin)

[OPBN]

I saw the two piece on/off and didnt look that close. I just pulled one of my on/offs out and tried to unscrew it like that and it doesnt budge...

[Justus]

It's really hard to get apart. I use two wrenches. The little o-ring on the inside is a 004 and can get pretty dirty over time. It's not something you'll need to take apart and clean often though.

[Chris TS-1438]

The valve is in the 001000s. Should it have a quad oring?

[athomas]

Missing the on-off top oring would definately cause the full auto problem.

It probably didn't come with a quad oring in a valve with a low SN in the 1000's. The pin is probably 0.725" in length. I would still use a quad oring. The quad oring reduces friction.

Check the on-off area in the valve. If the bottom of the hole has an indentation for the top oring, then you don't use the two orings on top of the on-off assembly. You only need the single quad oring.

The battery looks like it was rebuilt in 2010. It should still be good. I suspect the charger is not working properly. Also, don't go by the light on the charger. Leave it on charge over night. If you have access to a voltage meter, measure the output of the charger. It should be fairly high at around 25Vdc.

I would say the firmware has been updated to Xmod version 1.8, which is the latest version of Xmod firmware. It will give you all the modes of operation including ramping.

[athomas]

The emag charger looks like someone played techie with it dont waste your time. Get one like the below pic or ask in misc sell section if anyone has a oem emag charger for sale.

http://i39.tinypic.com/xfx4sn.jpgThis is only a 12V power supply for the charger. You still need a working charger to charge the battery.