Tap a valve

[C_losjoker]

Can you tap another inlet on the valve without issues?

[Flatliner333]

Where you wanting to put it ?

[my automag]

Short question...hmmm
Short answer...YES.

[rukh013]

Can you tap the bottom where the field strip screw is?

Then relocated the field strip screw to the reg, or not at all

[C_losjoker]

Opposite side or possibly under the rail.

[athomas]

Yes, you can put a new hole in through another surface.

[my automag]

Can you tap the bottom where the field strip screw is?

Then relocated the field strip screw to the reg, or not at all


Yes, not easy without a good machine...

Yes, carefully. I believe it has a thin wall, big time guessing maybe 1\4 inch or less...

D.K.

[Justus]

Where you wanting to put it ?
^^ If I recall correctly, this guy did it already, and hid the airline through the grip. Put a gauge on the original inlet hole, and made a MOTM winner.

[Ando]

^^ If I recall correctly, this guy did it already, and hid the airline through the grip. Put a gauge on the original inlet hole, and made a MOYM winner.
Fixed ;)

[Justus]

Fixed ;)
Wait, what? MOTY you mean? ;)

If not, then what is MOYM? :confused:

[Flatliner333]

If your going to tap it in on the bottom near the field strip hole you cannot go with the standard 1/8 npt hole there's not enough room. It has to be a smaller hole and you have to have a fitting that reduces down from a female 1/8 npt to a smaller male to fit the hole. Also there is not much room to play with, too far one way and you cut through the wall of the field strip hole too far the other way cutting through the dump chamber wall either way causing it to leak. Also the field strip screw has to be replaced with a smaller hex head screw that attaches the valve to the rail before the fitting is screwed in to the valve so no more field stripping.

[Flatliner333]

Can you tap the bottom where the field strip screw is?

Then relocated the field strip screw to the reg, or not at all

After much trial and error (if you wanna call 2 times much) I am thinking the following description is the best way to achieve what we are talking about here (until someone finds a better way...uhmmm..Hill?)

*** I am not a machinist and take no responsibility for for encouraging someone to destroy there $200.00 Valve or toy with strict AGD tollorances that might render there gun FUBARD ....But this is what I would do if I try this again...If you try it do so at your own risk and you still have to figure out if there is room for the fitting and macroline to run through your grip frame

* Attach body and valve to the rail...use small screw with the rail bushing for the valve

* Find dead center of original air input hole and draw a line around to bottom of rail

* Drill a small pilot hole through bottom of rail & valve that is in line with original input hole

* Remove valve and fill in field strip hole with JB weld ( no more field stripping)

* Finish drilling pilot hole in valve into air chamber...Drill and tap to 1/8" NPT

* drill out pilot hole in rail to make room for snug fitting straight macro line fitting

* Make sure this hole is large enough to let the threaded part of the fitting pass through but small enough so the fitting will snug up to the rail holding the valve in place.

* Rail hole may need a little counter sinking to allow enough threads to screw into bottom of valve and allow fitting to fit tight against bottom of rail (this is your new field strip screw / air input)

* Now you have to move the rail forward on your grip frame and position it so that the fitting and air line move through the frame and do not interfear with the sear.drill and tap new holes in the rail to attach rail straight to the grip frame. :cheers: