Anyone ever do this to their valve?

[TimmyJay]

I had a thought awhile back that has probably been posted here in the past. I am sure there is a safety issue doing this mod. However, it doesn't seem any less safe than the cap'd valve.

NEW photos of progress:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/ddntim/IMG950237.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/ddntim/IMG953347.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/ddntim/IMG953471.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/ddntim/TimsHackedValvemod2.jpg

Let me know your thoughts. Maybe there is a better way to get the same weight loss/ compaction results and maintain safety.

[Drix]

It looks like you are trying to remove the regulator from the setup, which has been done before, you're going about it all complicated, unless I've missed your point.

[TimmyJay]

Yes, I removed my reg on one on my mags using the Cap. However, the cap adds weight and rear length. I would like to remove the female threaded part of the valve. Basically shorten the back section by another 1/2 inch or so. 1/4 inch cap and 1/4 threaded portion if that make sense.

[dboggs79]

I've had this exact thought in mind for awhile. I came to the conclusion that I was gonna intersect the air passages through the field strip screw hole though. Getting a drill that small of a diameter to drill properly at that angle and through stainless would not be easy.

[magfan]

Apparently AO is very concerned with weight.

[FOOGLEMAN]

Apparently AO is very concerned with weight.


The first thing people say when the see I'm running a Mag: "Isn't that thing heavy?"

I don't know many people outside AO that consider AGD products "Light-weight"

[GoatBoy]

Isn't this kind of a permanent mod?

[TimmyJay]

Yes, but being that classic valves sell for about $40-60. I would be willing to give it a go to see how compact the valve can get.

[Deus Machina]

I've had this exact thought in mind for awhile. I came to the conclusion that I was gonna intersect the air passages through the field strip screw hole though. Getting a drill that small of a diameter to drill properly at that angle and through stainless would not be easy.

He contacted me, and this is my exact thought and worry.

My idea: find the biggest tap I could fit down the threads without buggering them, probably #6-32 or even #4-40, drill through, tap the resulting hole in the bottom, and loctite.

The valves seem to be a more agreeable stainless than I've used, which is great, but a .1" drill with so much extended would still such... I'm doing some measuring to try and figure that out.

[OPBN]

I Pmd DM on this on MCB, but are we attacking this the wrong way? Would it be easier to just mill a classic style valve body out of aluminum?

[cougar20th]

He contacted me, and this is my exact thought and worry.

My idea: find the biggest tap I could fit down the threads without buggering them, probably #6-32 or even #4-40, drill through, tap the resulting hole in the bottom, and loctite.

The valves seem to be a more agreeable stainless than I've used, which is great, but a .1" drill with so much extended would still such... I'm doing some measuring to try and figure that out.

My solution to the small drill bit issue.
Drill the valve/frame/rail for the larger RT banjo. You dont need the banjo for sealing you only need if for its size (diameter). Then you have all sorts of room to drill and tap a decent size air passage between the air ports in the valve. And getting a biger set screw up there. The banjo is also hollow so you may be able to use it to help "hide" the plug that is up in the field strip screw hole.

[OPBN]

For that matter, it doesnt even have to be a Banjo, just a simliar sized bolt right? As long as you used a simliar sized bolt, you could still use the same bushing.

[magfan]

The first thing people say when the see I'm running a Mag: "Isn't that thing heavy?"

I don't know many people outside AO that consider AGD products "Light-weight"
I've never been concerned with weight. My setup weighs about 6lbs, full hopper. Never bothered me.

[TimmyJay]

I Pmd DM on this on MCB, but are we attacking this the wrong way? Would it be easier to just mill a classic style valve body out of aluminum?

I would love to see this as well. with a smaller air chamber to boot.

[splat15k]

I would love to see this as well. with a smaller air chamber to boot.

Agreed!!

[Army]

'Mags aren't heavy when you have arms like a battleship!!

"Fire one, beeches!!"

[Chris TS-1438]

"...and when starting a project"...the lector stated "ask yourself why."

please do this. I saw a pic of something similar. makes no sense. if TK and AGD spent so much time designing a super-fast valve. why muss it up? I find it hard to post in these evangelical-type, tame, new testament-like, words. why can my words contain no colour on AO??? who is it that we are protecting? :tard: haha. im sure i circumvented something or other and the mighty ao fingering is going to happen. hopefully they will drip some gold cup on it first. Muss isnt a curse word....just to clarify, but was the replacement for one.


Im sorry. I dont understand the use of this "mod." even if you shorten the body, you still have the asa in the same spot, and you are going to save no weight using a foregrip reg.

[BiNumber3]

How bout using a larger hole in the back, large enough to connect both of the airlines, and then 1 large plug. Going from the pics in the first post. Might have to be a larger hole than the standard 1/4npt but should be easier to do.

As far as why do this? I personally find that with some of my setups the Reg is up too close to my goggles, and with the way I like to hold and shoot, a shorter rear end would be nice. Weight savings are a non-issue really, no matter how light your gun is, the tank and hopper of paint will make that negligable imo.

[TimmyJay]

I don't use a foregrip reg currently as I use my Dynaflow to bring the pressure down. I haven't been to a field to chrono since installing the cap'd valve mod. Therefore, I can't comment on consistancy. I may have to use a foregrip reg and then weight savings would be nil.

:rolleyes: I like to think out of the box. I offer no apologies for this...

[SkinnyHare]

'Mags aren't heavy when you have arms like a battleship!!

"Fire one, beeches!!"


That's about how I feel. Whenever someone tries to tell me my 'Mag is too heavy, I throw that half-sneer on my face and tell them they need to put down the Xbox controller and lift some weights.

[koleah]

Why not just drill from the top to connect the two passages and then put in a set screw plug?

[dboggs79]

"...and when starting a project"...the lector stated "ask yourself why."

please do this. I saw a pic of something similar. makes no sense. if TK and AGD spent so much time designing a super-fast valve. why muss it up? I find it hard to post in these evangelical-type, tame, new testament-like, words. why can my words contain no colour on AO??? who is it that we are protecting? :tard: haha. im sure i circumvented something or other and the mighty ao fingering is going to happen. hopefully they will drip some gold cup on it first. Muss isnt a curse word....just to clarify, but was the replacement for one.


Im sorry. I dont understand the use of this "mod." even if you shorten the body, you still have the asa in the same spot, and you are going to save no weight using a foregrip reg.

Because! That's good enough. Would it be considered absurd to want to take a different path. I'm sure TK and AGD would agree. Otherwise they would have produced a piece of crap blowback!

[TimmyJay]

Why not just drill from the top to connect the two passages and then put in a set screw plug?

I thought the same, but I wanted to minimize the holes.

[OPBN]

Seems like a couple of the approaches would work on this. I think a thinner back cap would be a cleaner look though. By the time you thread and put set screws in the back and one vertically, its gonna look kinda jake IMO.

[TimmyJay]

I decided to toss another option into the mix. However, I don't like the idea of a screw through the top. Additionally the valve would need to be made even more custom. I spent 30 seconds changing the image so I figured I would post it anyways.

[TimmyJay]

Still interested in the hack job. Any machinist willing to make the cut?

[Arstron]

I remember someone doing a mod like this years ago, they machined a flat back cap to replace the back half of the regulator, its simple, anyone could do the mod, and if you dont like it you can go back to stock.

[OPBN]

I remember someone doing a mod like this years ago, they machined a flat back cap to replace the back half of the regulator, its simple, anyone could do the mod, and if you dont like it you can go back to stock.
Read through the entire thread. He's aware of the caps.

[Arstron]

I had to reread it a couple times, my brain just isnt working today. Sorry I see what his doing now.

[TimmyJay]

Version 1 of the Hacked Valve Mod is started. Found out that my Bro-in-law is a tool and dye guy with all the basics.

Crossing fingers as first pic looks good. now onto the hard part.

I will post pics asap. Only problem is that he sends them over phone and I can't get them to the computer.

[ta2maki]

I don't know if anyone brought this up, but that center hole goes to the dump chamber side of the on-off. Connecting the top and bottom hole, the on-off becomes useless.

[TimmyJay]

I am pretty sure that having the macro fitting in the top hole will direct the air straight to the top of the on/off.

He is going to plug the middle hole and drill out the top hole to fit the macro fitting. Not enough material to do it without putting in a plug.

[TimmyJay]

Posted pix on the original post. Still a work in progress.

[athomas]

I don't know if anyone brought this up, but that center hole goes to the dump chamber side of the on-off. Connecting the top and bottom hole, the on-off becomes useless.The classic valve back isn't connected to the dump chamber. The retro valve is. Since the project is using a classic valve any cap on the back will work and all air has to go past the on-off pin to get to the front dump chamber.