X Valve Ano'ing

[D3adpool]

Hey Gang,

Stupid question. I am sort of new to mags and what I am about to say is based on limited information that I have seen tjus far. I havent looked though all of the threads on this site etc.....

Having said that, Can you anno a X Valve? I dont see too many valves in different colors and was wondering if there is a reason for that.

Thanks.

[Justus]

You can, but your anodizer will have to know what they're doing. I know hill had his done by Arnold's Metal Finishing (http://arnoldmetalfinishing.com/anodizing.html).

[tigar19]

I had mine done by BazookaBoy but he's done with his anno side job. It can be done.

[OPBN]

You can, but your anodizer will have to know what they're doing. I know hill had his done by Arnold's Metal Finishing (http://arnoldmetalfinishing.com/anodizing.html).This is the crucial part. I have an X that was reanodized and its a mess.

[C_losjoker]

when doing this, is it better to have them plug the ends and cover the threads? that way the tolerance of the inside stays the same and valve screws together just like before?

[NU_METAL]

I always used to "CAP" off any areas that i did not want getting "Acid Dipped " :ninja:

Here is X valve prepped ,cleaned & ready to go to the acid bath :

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/9199/hpim1903b.jpg

And after :
One i had done for G.H. many years ago

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/8129/dsc0503va.jpg

Notice the two shades of green from the body ,to the valve
Thats due to different grades of aluminum
Usually 6011 & 7011 , valve being a better,denser grade (prolly same as barrel)
This creates a "shade difference " That can USUALLY be corrected
90% of the time ,and with alot of patience & practice
This one i could not get exact ( shade that is )
So being as it was a dust digi camo feel , it grew on me and i decided to leave it

[C_losjoker]

nu, i think you did awesome on that and right by leaving it. that is my type of colors right there and exact how i would thinkg be the best way to do any ano valve.


also while we are talking ano and i hope OP does not mind. I have couple of markers that are completely raw. when going to ano, is it better to have the body sealed so the bath does not go inside the body, could that change the tolerance or to let the inside get ano too and it should not cause a problem?

[NU_METAL]

nope
your body will be fine ,Barrels do well ,just about everything does fine

I have done an Angel once without capping anything & its performance was identical .And they can be alittle tricky when it comes to tolerances .Technically , nothing has to be CAPED off ,.......I just got into the habit because i know how x valves can be "sometimes" even when you dont Anodize them ;)

and with keeping to the topic ,....then comes the headache of finding a good LAZER ENGRAVER to put the "X" back on .

[D3adpool]

Thanks guys. I knew there was something unusual here with x valves.

I don't mind however loosing the X marking after the process

[going_home]

I always used to "CAP" off any areas that i did not want getting "Acid Dipped " :ninja:

Here is X valve prepped ,cleaned & ready to go to the acid bath :

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/9199/hpim1903b.jpg

And after :
One i had done for G.H. many years ago

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/8129/dsc0503va.jpg

Notice the two shades of green from the body ,to the valve
Thats due to different grades of aluminum
Usually 6011 & 7011 , valve being a better,denser grade (prolly same as barrel)
This creates a "shade difference " That can USUALLY be corrected
90% of the time ,and with alot of patience & practice
This one i could not get exact ( shade that is )
So being as it was a dust digi camo feel , it grew on me and i decided to leave it






http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b195/going_home/Stuff%20to%20keep/DSC_0010.jpg



http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b195/going_home/Stuff%20to%20keep/DSC_0011.jpg




;)

[mpsd]

My anoed X-valve:

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x299/mpsd18/DSC00093.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x299/mpsd18/DSC06589.jpg