Autocockers?

[OPBN]

So played some rec ball yesterday and oddly enough ended up with a great group of guys, a lot of which were shooting CCM pumps or older markers like Cockers, PGP, PPS etc. Had probably one of the best rec play days in a very long time. And it was at a field we normally hate to play at, so overall it was really awesome.

On to my question. As mentioned a few guys were playing with CCM/Autococker pumps (Snipers for you anal retentive about correctness) and some Autocockers. I have been somewhat intrigued by Cockers for awhile but honestly been scared off partially because I always hear how hard they can be to tune/sycronize and also because I need another brand obsession like I need a third nipple.

With that said, I am thinking about sticking my toes in the water and picking up an inexpensive cocker.
1. I have seen/heard that Trilogies are cheap, but is there a reason? What pitfalls should I steer clear of?
2. I also prefer vert feed markers so I assume I am looking for 2k+ only right?
3. Can all Autocockers be converted to pumps if I choose to go that route?
4. What interchageability issues to I need be concerned with?
5. Can all Cockers/snipers be half blocked? If so, what all is involved besides getting the body milled and installing a sled?

I'm sure other questions will pop up as/if this progresses.

I know there is customcockers, but I figured I would get more straight answers possibly here from people I know. Not looking for fanboyism on either end, just honest non-biased info.

[IrishRedneck86]

1. I have seen/heard that Trilogies are cheap, but is there a reason? What pitfalls should I steer clear of?
2. I also prefer vert feed markers so I assume I am looking for 2k+ only right?
3. Can all Autocockers be converted to pumps if I choose to go that route?
4. What interchageability issues to I need be concerned with?
5. Can all Cockers/snipers be half blocked? If so, what all is involved besides getting the body milled and installing a sled?

1. The Trilogies are great shooters some "PURIST" dont care for them because they came out just after WGP was sold to JT and you cant change the 3way because it is built into the body.

2. Yes as a general rule for cockers vertfeed is most common in 2K+ but you can find some PRE99 ones as well Ive personally had a few.

3. Yes all cockers can be made into a pump all ya have to do the take the front block off and install the pump kit.

4. The main problems people run into are Year range differences for size such as Pre2K banjo bolt is smaller than the 2K+, then you have the different valve sizes, and then the different bolt sizes ranging from longest to shortest Pre2K, 2K+, EVO, Midblock, Halfblock.

5. Again yes all cockers can be halfblocked besides the milling and bolt your gonna need the mid/half block slotted hammer for the bolt pin to catch and cock the gun as it removes the cocking rod and back block to cock the gun.

[OPBN]

Are all frames interchangeable? I have seen a trilogy pump for sale that interests me, but hate the frame thats on it and would like to put an 86* frame on it. Why do some of the frames have the big space on the top of them like this:

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn308/oldpbnoob/paintballgate_2218_169205334.gif

[IrishRedneck86]

Yeah all frames are interchangeable as long as its made to fit on a cocker. What do you mean by the big space on top are you talking about above the trigger because thats where the whole trigger mechanism and sear assembly is so with the stock WGP hinge's none of the moving parts dip into the frame handle so its more straight forward design and shorter springs.

If ya post a pic of the trilly I could tell ya more about it. Its just with the trilogies if your gonna make it mech again youll need the Tech T LPR nut so you can use any after market LPR otherwise you gotta get a trilogy LPR, and I would recommend Tech T's trilogy shaft kit which is an adjustable 3way rod for better timing otherwise its a solid shaft and if the pneumatics arent set right its gonna be a pain to shoot if it does at all.

[OPBN]

compare the above picture to this one:

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn308/oldpbnoob/KGrHqFrUE-lIbreGRBQDELm3Pw60_12.jpg

I am talking about the difference in the frame section above the trigger. I always thought the first one looked terribly awkward vs the one in this post. I have seen both types and wasnt sure if this was something that was indicative to one particular year, model etc.

[GEE TEE]

The newer CCM frames like the one shown above won't work on mech semi's. They are made for pump markers only as there's no provision for operating the 3 way timing rod.

Earlier WORKS style CCM hinge frames will be ok on a semi

http://i.pbase.com/o6/38/632238/1/73459328.XlRWJ8Mg.werksgoldcocker.jpg

[OPBN]

So if I am looking at a Trilogy pump the CCM 86 would work on it?

[IrishRedneck86]

Like I said the thicker portion is for the full trigger mechanism because the trigger has to have the added lever/arm to actuate the 3way which is the slot indicated by the green line in the photo below. Where as the CCM 86 frames now are only ment for pump as they are only a simple hinge with the hole behind the trigger for the auto-trigger cam. Some mech frames are a bit smaller on top but not by much and none will be as thin as the CCMs because of the 3way rod.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i95/RedneckRebel86/paintballgate_2218_168518420.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i95/RedneckRebel86/dyesingleblack.jpg

[IrishRedneck86]

So if I am looking at a Trilogy pump the CCM 86 would work on it?

Yes the CCM 86 will work for the Pump but if you ever want to make it a Mech youll have to buy or use a different frame

[OPBN]

Yes the CCM 86 will work for the Pump but if you ever want to make it a Mech youll have to buy or use a different frame
Im a gun whore, of course I would just buy another one with spare frame sitting around... duh. :rofl:

The frame on the bottome is better.

[IrishRedneck86]

Yeah the Dye single trigger hinge is my personal favorite unless I want a slider then its the Benchmark 45's. I'm just not big on tons of misc parts sitting around anymore so if Im gonna have a gun that swaps back and forth from pump to mech Ill keep it with one frame so all I have to change is the front end.

[captian pinky]

ive learned my lesson, tried to shoot cockers but they don't like me been shooting a pump since about 2k2,i know i wont be playing with a mech cocker anytime soon.

most people don't like the trilogies. because they are made over seas now and are not the same quality the older cockers are.

but if you are looking for a nice pump let me know i have a couple for sale.

[OPBN]

ive learned my lesson, tried to shoot cockers but they don't like me been shooting a pump since about 2k2,i know i wont be playing with a mech cocker anytime soon.

most people don't like the trilogies. because they are made over seas now and are not the same quality the older cockers are.

but if you are looking for a nice pump let me know i have a couple for sale.

I like to tinker, thus the reason I am sort of interested in one. I really dont care where theyre made so not an issue for me. Maybe if/once I get more into them I will, but the fact that they are cheap works for me.

PM me what you have, I may be interested, but I am truly looking to start pretty cheap unless it has exactly what I am looking for, but even then cash flow isnt great now so cant afford to spend much.

[OPBN]

Another question. I have seen some Cockers that seem to have regs for foregrips. The one the guy had yesterday didn't. I thought maybe just pumps had them, but than I see on on MCB that looks like a mech, but has what appears to be a reg mounted on the foregrip?

Anyone?

[IrishRedneck86]

The normal mech trilogy's being the Basic(Blue), Competition(Black/Red), and Pro(Silver) ones are ok where they get the most problems are the selectfire's. The 3 mech types were still made here but when JT added the electronics they shipped production to their overseas plant to keep cost down.

For front regs its usually best to run all cockers with a HPR reg other wise your trying to keep it tuned with just the IVG and it puts alot of stress on the springs and makes the velocities pretty inconsistant where you can normally just set your hpr around 280-300 PSI and then fine tune your velocity with the IVG only for pump and both IVG/LPR for mech

[OPBN]

Ok. I think I need to find something that explains how these work so I have a better idea of what is going on.

[going_home]

http://cockerfanatics.blogspot.com

Cocker nuts here, they like to help with tech and questions.



;)

[OPBN]

http://cockerfanatics.blogspot.com

Cocker nuts here, they like to help with tech and questions.



;)
As mentioned, I know there is also Customcockers, but wanted some more neutral info.

[zondo]

This is what I found when I was researching picking up an Autococker... pretty good episode, if it is a little long.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yty2wMSSQDk&feature=plcp

[IrishRedneck86]

The link below is probably the best and most neutral info for the Trilogies because when you are just looking for the problems with cockers most of the time there really isnt one its usually people tinkering too much with them or it crept out of time and they dont know how to time it fully then automatically cockers suck according to them just like it is with mags these days you get the I cant figure it out in 5 minutes and my local tech doesnt know enough so the gun sucks and Im just gonna sell it

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=987989

[OPBN]

Thanks guys. I'll need to steal some time and go through the info.

:cheers:

[tribalman]

frames are NOT always interchangable. The trilogy has a slightly shorter frame than the regulars. as for pumping, one pump kit will not work on the others. If you want pictures i can show you them. I have a pumped Trilogy along with 2 others i'm trying to ID.

The 2 other ones are probably 2000-2004 year..

[IrishRedneck86]

frames are NOT always interchangable. The trilogy has a slightly shorter frame than the regulars. as for pumping, one pump kit will not work on the others. If you want pictures i can show you them. I have a pumped Trilogy along with 2 others i'm trying to ID.

The 2 other ones are probably 2000-2004 year..

Post a pic of the other 2 I can probably ID them for ya but heres a few just to show ya the easy ones

2003, Orracle
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i95/RedneckRebel86/Misc/autococker004.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i95/RedneckRebel86/Misc/DSC00266.jpg

2004, Karnivor
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i95/RedneckRebel86/Misc/DSC00254.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i95/RedneckRebel86/Misc/DSC00257.jpg

2005, JOLE Blackout, JOLE V1
http://www.stormofdarkness.com/stuff/newmarker.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i95/RedneckRebel86/gun2.jpg
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc253/dbkid0486/P1010226.jpg

[IrishRedneck86]

2006 Black Magic, JOLE V2/3, SR
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/3729/img1904fy.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/401/img1904fy.jpg/)
http://www.freepaintballplans.com/gun_showcase/Jeff_Orr_LE_JOLE_Cocker.jpg
http://www.ipixelspot.com/files//2/My%20Paintball%20Markers/JOLE%20V3%20complete.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i95/RedneckRebel86/100_6097.jpg

[Darring D]

Here's 2 nice starter cockers, one has CCM pump
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/pump-guns/208873-pick-pump.html

[mpsd]

As a huge Mag collector, I also bought some few Cockers over the past years and so here's what I have to say about them:

- I don't really like the feel of a mech Cocker. The trigger feel is way different when compared to a Mag, especially if you have a RT Mag. Even a pneu Mag is a little different and I like it better than a Cocker. I have an Eclipse mech cocker in the collection.
- Trillies are cheap and there's a reson to it. If you're looking for a cheap Cocker, I wouldn't buy a Trillogy. You can find very nice Cockers under $200.
- An electro-Cocker is a cool gun to have. As any electro, not much trigger feel to be had but these guns perform really well. I don't have any, though.
- Pump cockers (Snipers and others) can be the best pumps around. They are certainly better than Sheridans (I have a Palmerized Pirana SB that I love but the overall feel of my pump Cockers is better for sure). If I can recommend one, that would certainly be a CCM T2, although they are not cheap. I absolutelly LOVE mine and it's certainly my go to pump. And this is comming from someone who has over 30 pumps (most of them Nelsons). You can find S5s and SS25s for good prices if you look for them on the forums.

Anyways, it's always good to try.

My cockers can be seen here:
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x299/mpsd18/95902d71.jpg

- 1998 Bellsales Evolution painted camo with a pump kit
- 1999 Eclipse mech in Green Envy, blind
- CCM T2 - factory camo anodizing, 1 of 6

:cheers:

[OPBN]

If I can recommend one, that would certainly be a CCM T2, although they are not cheap. I absolutelly LOVE mine and it's certainly my go to pump. And this is comming from someone who has over 30 pumps (most of them Nelsons). You can find S5s and SS25s for good prices if you look for them on the forums.


:cheers:
CCM's are waaaaayyy out of my price range ATM. I'm looking to spend as close to $100 or so if possible.

[mpsd]

CCM's are waaaaayyy out of my price range ATM. I'm looking to spend as close to $100 or so if possible.

For that amount, I'd say that you should try finding an older pre-2000 cocker with a slider frame. You can find some of those for good prices and with good components.

Anyways, I preffer a 15 year old Cocker than a 3 years old Trilogy.

[OPBN]

For that amount, I'd say that you should try finding an older pre-2000 cocker with a slider frame. You can find some of those for good prices and with good components.

Anyways, I preffer a 15 year old Cocker than a 3 years old Trilogy.
But then I'm looking at RF bodies which I hate. I'm patient. I'll find what I need.

[cockerpunk]

But then I'm looking at RF bodies which I hate. I'm patient. I'll find what I need.

you can find good vert cockers all day under 200.

dont be afraid of the 2k+ WGP guns, even stock the WGP stuff was really pretty good after 2k.

[mpsd]

Here's a nice 2003 vert feed cocker being sold for $120 OBO:
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/mechanical-semi-autos/208295-gear-closet-sell-off.html

Go down and see the blue one.

I don't really like the frame but it's a good cocker and certainly better than a Trilly.

[dboggs79]

You should be able to find a 2k or newer for $100 to $150. It'll probably be bone stock and well used. But it'll give you something to tinker with, learn the ins and outs, and see if its for you.

[Spider-TW]

3. Yes all cockers can be made into a pump all ya have to do the take the front block off and install the pump kit.

4. The main problems people run into are Year range differences for size such as Pre2K banjo bolt is smaller than the 2K+, then you have the different valve sizes, and then the different bolt sizes ranging from longest to shortest Pre2K, 2K+, EVO, Midblock, Halfblock.

When you take 3 and 4 above together, be careful about your particular model and the pump kit that you think about buying. It seems fairly common that people end up buying the wrong pump kit.

Regulated, low pressure "snipers" are very nice (they usually have lighter springs). I often forget about roll-outs when I've been playing with mags of any sort. Other than that, the consistency can be top notch.

I never have been able to bring myself to own a real autococker, but I like to watch other people shoot them.

[OPBN]

Here's a nice 2003 vert feed cocker being sold for $120 OBO:
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/mechanical-semi-autos/208295-gear-closet-sell-off.html

Go down and see the blue one.

I don't really like the frame but it's a good cocker and certainly better than a Trilly.I saw that one, thanks. Yeah, hate the frame as well. Discussing the one that DD linked with the seller. Sounds like it was a basket case when he got it and right now its bareish metal. I don't mind reanodizing, but by the time I start doing that, costs are going to add up.


Edit: Apparently, I thought about it too long and some Canuc beat me to it on the STO. Oh well.

[Darring D]

Check this out. Looks like he is parting out an autococker. Has all the parts for sale Buy it now to make a pump. You would need a back block for either body he has for sale.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/imon1maybe6/m.html?hash=item3cc8b2bd3b&item=261065194811&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2562


The sanchez pump handle is nice, has double pump rods and comes with a back block. It will work nicely with the post 2K body he is selling. The body is milled on both sides so the 2 rods will fit.

:headbang:

[OPBN]

If I was building from scratch, I would probably go more for something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WGP-VF-AUTOCOCKER-BODY-UNDRILLED-GLOSS-RED-PUMP-CCM-FBM-DYE-WORR-PRO-COCKER-/300739296218?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4605757bda

Besides obviously a frame, pump kit, reg/gasthru what esle is needed to make this complete? Says it has no lower tube internals....

[Darring D]

That looks like a 2003 body, nice, I have that same body as a mechanical.

you would need a Bolt, a bottle ASA/On-Off, and autococker threaded barrel.

The e-bay link I gave has lower internals for sale too!

Thats a fair price on the CCM 86* frame. only for pump, not mechanical.

That sanchez pump kit would work on it too!

[OPBN]

That looks like a 2003 body, nice, I have that same body as a mechanical.

you would need a Bolt, a bottle ASA/On-Off, and autococker threaded barrel.

The e-bay link I gave has lower internals for sale too!

Thats a fair price on the CCM 86* frame. only for pump, not mechanical.

That sanchez pump kit would work on it too!

I am strongly leaning towards pump. Is that a fair price for internals? Stupid question is the bolt included in the lower internals?

Is this what I need? http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-ANS-INTERNALS-KIT-4-AUTOCOCKER-VALVE-HAMMER-REX-KIT-COCKING-ROD-ECLIPSE-/300743305702?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4605b2a9e6

I don't see a "bolt listed.

[mpsd]

Lower internal kits don't usually include a bolt.

One thing I've learned is that if you try procuring each part individually you will most likely end up spending twice the money you thought you would. It would certainly be cheaper to buy a complete marker with a lame frame and then just change that specific part. IIRC, a nice slider 45 frame can be found for $30, including the trigger and sear.

[Darring D]

yes thats a fair price, The bolt goes in upper tube and is seperate. I know I have extra bolt, you don't need anything fancy if using it for a pump.

Those lowers are nice but it is not a Rex dialer. The rex dialer allows you to adjust your velocity at the IVG without removing the cocking rod. See here and notice the second smaller allen key that allows for velocity adjustment.

[mpsd]

One more hint. I believe this is the best Cockers forum around:

http://customcockers.com/forum/forum.php?

100% focused and with very good people there too.

[OPBN]

One more hint. I believe this is the best Cockers forum around:

http://customcockers.com/forum/forum.php?

100% focused and with very good people there too.
Thanks. I've already mentioned twice that I know about customcockers. lol. You need to read the entire thread man. ;)

I like it here and seem to be getting decent info so far.

[Darring D]

One more hint. I believe this is the best Cockers forum around:

http://customcockers.com/forum/forum.php?

100% focused and with very good people there too.


I second this, plus they too have a great buy/sell section.

Contact KMac http://customcockers.com/forum/member.php?34-k-macocker

He has his own site with much info and pictures and tons of stuff to sell!

:ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja:

[mpsd]

Thanks. I've already mentioned twice that I know about customcockers. lol. You need to read the entire thread man. ;)

I like it here and seem to be getting decent info so far.

LOL

Sorry, I admit I didn't read all the minor details. Just did a quick look over and saw that no-one linked you to CC before. My fault!!

[OPBN]

LOL

Sorry, I admit I didn't read all the minor details. Just did a quick look over and saw that no-one linked you to CC before. My fault!!
No worries. I appreciate the help.

I also agree on buying a complete marker being cheaper, but I have been looking for a few days and not really seeing anything that is exactly what I want. The argument could also be made that by building it peice by peice that I get exactly what parts I want and don't have to worry about buying a marker and swapping things out. Essentlally I want the body I linked above with an 86* frame and CCM pump kit. Doubtful I would find that exact combo without waiting for months or possibly years. I'm patient, but not that patient.

[mpsd]

No worries. I appreciate the help.

I also agree on buying a complete marker being cheaper, but I have been looking for a few days and not really seeing anything that is exactly what I want. The argument could also be made that by building it peice by peice that I get exactly what parts I want and don't have to worry about buying a marker and swapping things out. Essentlally I want the body I linked above with an 86* frame and CCM pump kit. Doubtful I would find that exact combo without waiting for months or possibly years. I'm patient, but not that patient.

Well a CCM pump kit with an 86* frame will run you at least $150 used, I believe. Add the body, internals, reg, other smaller parts and shipping costs from different sellers and you will be looking at spending US$ 300, at least. That's used CCM teritorry already.

[river031403]

I finished this one about 2months ago and Im starting on another one :ninja:
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/river031403/GEDC0377.jpg

[OPBN]

And so it begins:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300739296218?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Body =$51.90

[GEE TEE]

Trilogy's are budget level cockers. I had one which I converted to pump (gat products kit) and it shot really well. They need a specific pump kit.. regular cocker ones don't work by the way. Eclipse, CCM, ANS and Dye hinge triggers all have a much lower profile than the WGP frame. Minus points with Trilly's are fixed feedneck, built in 3 way, LPR and HPR not adjustable without stripping. But many of these bits can be replaced if needed, and even the feedneck converted with a bit of machining work.

You either like Autocockers or you don't - there's very little middle ground. I've owned, built and shot them since the late 80's, so shooting one comes naturally. You really have to set up the trigger pull to suit you, and then get used to it with practice. They need a full positive trigger stroke to cycle properly, other wise you'll get half cocks, double feeds or chops. I think a double hinge like the Eclipse frame is the easiest to shoot fast with, but actually prefer a quality slide single trigger.

I'm a regular poster on Custom Cockers, and the help given to new cocker users is usually very friendly and unbiased compared to other forums. I honestly think its the best dedicated forum for serious cocker addicts. The £100 budget is a bit low to be honest. $200-250 would get you a nice, ready upgraded cocker which will perform way better.

Put it this way... you won't get much Automag wise for $100, so expect the same deal with Auto cockers

[OPBN]

So what constitutes "good" internals? When I started playing paintball I mainly shot Tippmanns and always facepalmed when I saw people listing upgraded powertubes, bolts etc as I never saw any benefit other than fattening the sellers wallet. What true benefits are there to CCM, Belsales or any other internals in an AC or is it just hype?

BTW, I have registered on customcockers, but so far my account has not been activated as I cannot do anything but read through threads and PM people.

[Darring D]

I PM'ed K.macocker to see if he can get you activated. did you use OPBN as account name? :ninja:

[GEE TEE]

So what constitutes "good" internals? When I started playing paintball I mainly shot Tippmanns and always facepalmed when I saw people listing upgraded powertubes, bolts etc as I never saw any benefit other than fattening the sellers wallet. What true benefits are there to CCM, Belsales or any other internals in an AC or is it just hype?

BTW, I have registered on customcockers, but so far my account has not been activated as I cannot do anything but read through threads and PM people.

Internals do make a difference but not as much as some other mods. Good quality pneumatics, trigger frames, lightweight bolts and inline regulators are where the wise money gets spent. You can still fit a better valve, hammer etc.. But the stock WGP internals are not that bad, and a lot of my cockers still have them. Expensive parts won't make a cocker shoot right if it's been badly put together and timed.

Account activation on CC can take a while.. but you'll get there on eventually

[saintnoir]

a lot is hype stock works fine but are you gonna run hpa,co2 or 12 grams? that dictates what you need in a setup

[river031403]

my 05 prostock had stock lowers with a farting issues and not very smooth. I put ccm lowers no farting and smooth no lie no hype

[saintnoir]

had a farty 03 changed springs solved it i said a lot not all.ccm are good but ive found that most of the time a bit of air,time and a spring kit works wonders

[cockerpunk]

my 05 prostock had stock lowers with a farting issues and not very smooth. I put ccm lowers no farting and smooth no lie no hype

merely respringing and retuning your WGP stuff could have achieved the same thing. CCM knows how to do this well, doesn't mean they are the only ones. the WGP stuff is not tuned for a pump.

[river031403]

another reason why i got the ccm lowers is due to there great customer service and the fact that there parts have a lifetime warranty

[GEE TEE]

WGP parts will last for years if properly maintained.

They may not be made to same tolerances or quality of finish as CCM parts, but they work and cost peanuts to replace.

As Cockerpunk said.. Farting could have been fixed for free by adjusting inline pressure, springing or both

[river031403]

WGP parts will last for years if properly maintained.

They may not be made to same tolerances or quality of finish as CCM parts, but they work and cost peanuts to replace.

As Cockerpunk said.. Farting could have been fixed for free by adjusting inline pressure, springing or both

I shot my gun with both set of internals/components and there is a difference. :cheers:

[OPBN]

I PM'ed K.macocker to see if he can get you activated. did you use OPBN as account name? :ninja:
Yeah. Says my account is activated, but in the moderator que.

As for internals, I 100% intend for this to be a pump running HPA.

Also, anyone know how to tell if a CCM pump kit is 2K+ or not?

[Darring D]

Pre 2k pump guide rod is 3/8"-24 thread, 2K+ is 9/16"-24 thread

[cockerpunk]

pre 2k looks like a pencil
post 2k is more like your finger

[GEE TEE]

I shot my gun with both set of internals/components and there is a difference. :cheers:

The biggest difference is in your wallet

There are other internals which work just as well as CCM IMHO

http://www.belsales.co.uk/pa.htm

[OPBN]

Got my body in today.Yay! Had a little more ano wear that I was expecting. Booo!. Heavier than I expected TBH.

[OPBN]

Update:

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn308/oldpbnoob/sniper.jpg

Pretty much everything excepting I am waiting on an SS screw kit, slider shoes, beavertail, cocking rod, bolt pin and CP HPR. All chrome of course. Still need to find the ever elusive red Kapp 45's. Theres a guy on MCB selling red acrylic ones, may just go with those for the time being.

Pump action is fairly smooth. Seems to be some adjustment to get the pump action to fully cock the sear, but I'll fiddle with that more then I get the HPR.

I asked this on CC, but still havent gotten a definitive answer, but will the item below fit this body and if so, anyone here know someone that can pull the old one and put the new one in?

http://paintballgateway.com/wgpauthvefep.html

[cockerpunk]

Update:

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn308/oldpbnoob/sniper.jpg

Pretty much everything excepting I am waiting on an SS screw kit, slider shoes, beavertail, cocking rod, bolt pin and CP HPR. All chrome of course. Still need to find the ever elusive red Kapp 45's. Theres a guy on MCB selling red acrylic ones, may just go with those for the time being.

Pump action is fairly smooth. Seems to be some adjustment to get the pump action to fully cock the sear, but I'll fiddle with that more then I get the HPR.

I asked this on CC, but still havent gotten a definitive answer, but will the item below fit this body and if so, anyone here know someone that can pull the old one and put the new one in?

http://paintballgateway.com/wgpauthvefep.html

have to press out the old feedneck and put that one it.

if you dont care about wrecking the stock feedneck, then yeah, you can do it pretty easily. remember, that part is merely the threaded portion of the feedneck that is stuck in the body, have to buy a CCM or something to go on top of that.

[mpsd]

So, I have to ask. Can you let us know how much it ran you in the end?

And how many people did you have to negotiate with in order to have all the pieces and bits for this build?

I like how you assemble it, just got curious.

:cheers:

[Darring D]

I see you got the parts. Evrything work okay? Nice valve tool :p
Looking good can't wait to see the final product!

Don't get the mag parts too close they might mix with the cocker gene pool! :eek:

[Darring D]

Pump action is fairly smooth. Seems to be some adjustment to get the pump action to fully cock the sear, but I'll fiddle with that more then I get the HPR.

You can shorten the pump stroke by screwing the adjustable end of the cocking rod in. If you are going to replace the rod I I'd wait to make those final adjustments.

[OPBN]

So, I have to ask. Can you let us know how much it ran you in the end?

And how many people did you have to negotiate with in order to have all the pieces and bits for this build?

I like how you assemble it, just got curious.

:cheers:
Probably more than I would have if I would have just bought it outright, but it would have taken me weeks or months to find exactly what I wanted. I don't mind giving a breakdown:

Body= $ 52
Lower internals, delrin bolt, bolt pin, valve tool, spare cocking rod, and Hitman mod = $ 60
ANS cocking rod, Beavertail, & Chrome bolt pin = $ 22 (also bought a delrin tipped, chrome WGP bolt $18. Not sure why)
CP Medium length Chrome HPR = $ 35
CCM Deluxe Pump kit = $ 40
Chrome Slider frame w/Kapp panels = $50 (I plan on selling the cap panels so should bring this down)
Slider shoes = $ 11 (shipped)
SS screw set = $13 (A lot of $ imo, but the guy is in Columbus and gives me someone to contact for cocker issues)

I already had the CP on/off and tons of fittings laying around, so those are freeish. So essentially I have $283 into it, but if I sell the Kapp panels for $25-30, it puts me down to around $250. Valve tools cost $12-15, so IMO it is considered a tool and not part of the build, so if I deduct for that, I get down to about $240 or so. IMO, not too bad considering this figure INCLUDES SHIPPING.

As far as people dealing with goes, it was a total of 8 including the guy on Ebay that I bought the body from and an actual online store that I got the shoes from.

[OPBN]

I see you got the parts. Evrything work okay? Nice valve tool :p
Looking good can't wait to see the final product!

Don't get the mag parts too close they might mix with the cocker gene pool! :eek:

I studied the parts, and a diagram for several minutes gleening how they go together. Went together fine, I have yet to air it up, so not sure if I have any leaks or not. I plan on stripping and polishing the hitman piece this afternoon. Bye bye black!

[OPBN]

have to press out the old feedneck and put that one it.

if you dont care about wrecking the stock feedneck, then yeah, you can do it pretty easily. remember, that part is merely the threaded portion of the feedneck that is stuck in the body, have to buy a CCM or something to go on top of that. I was just making sure there wasnt a year issue? I do not have faith in myself that I could accomplish this without marring up the body more than it is, so will probably see if I can find someone willing to do it that will give me some sort of guarantee that they wont fubar the ano. I know that this is just he threaded portion, but I really hate the static bucket style feedneck and don't like the milling down option much more. At least with putting this feedneck in, I could have a wider range of feednecks to choose from.

In hindsight I should have opted for an AC body that came with a threaded feedneck. Which ones did and didnt?

[mpsd]

Probably more than I would have if I would have just bought it outright, but it would have taken me weeks or months to find exactly what I wanted. I don't mind giving a breakdown:

Body= $ 52
Lower internals, delrin bolt, bolt pin, valve tool, spare cocking rod, and Hitman mod = $ 60
ANS cocking rod, Beavertail, & Chrome bolt pin = $ 22 (also bought a delrin tipped, chrome WGP bolt $18. Not sure why)
CP Medium length Chrome HPR = $ 35
CCM Deluxe Pump kit = $ 40
Chrome Slider frame w/Kapp panels = $50 (I plan on selling the cap panels so should bring this down)
Slider shoes = $ 11 (shipped)
SS screw set = $13 (A lot of $ imo, but the guy is in Columbus and gives me someone to contact for cocker issues)

I already had the CP on/off and tons of fittings laying around, so those are freeish. So essentially I have $283 into it, but if I sell the Kapp panels for $25-30, it puts me down to around $250. Valve tools cost $12-15, so IMO it is considered a tool and not part of the build, so if I deduct for that, I get down to about $240 or so. IMO, not too bad considering this figure INCLUDES SHIPPING.

As far as people dealing with goes, it was a total of 8 including the guy on Ebay that I bought the body from and an actual online store that I got the shoes from.

That's what I figured. Not bad. In the end of the day, the important thing is that you have fun with your build. Don't forget to upload some pics of the final product.

:cheers:

[OPBN]

CP HPR came in today. Trying on these grips for size. I still want red Kapp 45's, but these may have to do. Conatacte Mike780 to see if he was still making the G-10 ones as an alternate, but haven't heard back yet:

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn308/oldpbnoob/sniperalmostdone.jpg

Got a chance to air it up. Rigged up a fixture to preset the HPR to arounnd 300 output as suggested, screwed it back in, aired it up and voila... no leaks! First freaking time. Probably won't get a chance to check the FPS/set it until next week as I am playing tomorrow and really need to run through the 3 or 4 markers I'm taking tomorrow to make sure everything is right with them.

And honestly, I want to assemble the E-TAC more than I want to mess with this....

One thing I did notice is that I almost felt a need for a drop for this. I hate drops. Really, but as I am shouldering and dry firing this, I kept thinking how much better it would feel if the tank was dropped down a couple of inches and possibly forward. Might have to dig out my chrome flame drops that I thought I would never use. :rofl:

[mpsd]

I really like it as it is now. Even the grips. I'd install a red trigger shoe and call it done! :)

[OPBN]

I really like it as it is now. Even the grips. I'd install a red trigger shoe and call it done! :)
Unfortunately, I bought a nickel one before I found someone with a red one :cry: I'm too cheap to spend the $10 + shipping to get a red on now. Maybe after someone buys some of my stuff I 'll be a little more spendy.

[Darring D]

If you are stripping and polishing the hitman mod then you need clear pump handle! :cool:

[Darring D]

doesn't it figure, there's always one for sale just after you finsh your build! Look at the second picture. :eek:
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/pump-guns/209267-2-ccmed-wgp-pumps.html

[OPBN]

doesn't it figure, there's always one for sale just after you finsh your build! Look at the second picture. :eek:
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/pump-guns/209267-2-ccmed-wgp-pumps.html

Meh, I like mine better and I didnt spend that much. Had I bought that I would have to have spent time selling the black frame to find a chrome one etc.

I got it chronoing at around 280. Shredded the O-ring around the IVG and just put a tank o-ring on it. That one shredded too, but seem to just be there to keep it from backing out?

Seems louder than I thought it was supposed to be. Neighbors are loving me right now. Spent an hour on and off teching my main Mag and now just shot through a 100 round hopper with the sniper. :rofl: :shooting: :dance:

[luke]

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn308/oldpbnoob/sniperalmostdone.jpg

OK, so are you ready to trade that towards some Mag mods/parts/etc?

:)

[OPBN]

OK, so are you ready to trade that towards some Mag mods/parts/etc?

:)
Actually looking through to see what Mag parts I could sell to fund a mech build..

[river031403]

sorry to jack your thread but this just walked into my front door can anybody identify this cocker? I'm thinking its a ccm of some sort?
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/river031403/GEDC0403.jpg

[OPBN]

If you are stripping and polishing the hitman mod then you need clear pump handle! :cool:

Or the polished silver aluminum one.... :ninja:

[OPBN]

sorry to jack your thread but this just walked into my front door can anybody identify this cocker? I'm thinking its a ccm of some sort?

Someone else may have to verify, but I think its a CCM Works.

[GEE TEE]

Yes looks like an early one before they went to P-block style rear end

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b310/VinceZ/2k2-3%20WORKS%20Autococker/pacsworks.jpg

[GEE TEE]

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn308/oldpbnoob/sniperalmostdone.jpg

These Tanked 45 grips would look pretty funky on that if you can get a set

http://www.zephyrpaintball.com/product/PB-TNKD-45KILZON/Tanked-Paintball-45-Grips---Killzone.html

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51HMqBH5e4L._SL500_AA300_.jpg

[tribalman]

OPBN, good looking cocker!

anyone know where i can get trigger hingpins? on 2 of my 3 cockers i've had them fall out now and i can't find replacements.