Classic RT crapping out.

[ninja3454]

I got a classic RT, it was in great condition when I got it, but after playing (or attempting to play) with it today I kind of just want to hit myself in the face with a sledge hammer.

It leaks whenever I gas it up now. The first time it leaked I fixed it by changing one of the o-rings on the field strip screw (which are all in good shape now), but now it leaks from the back of the gun around where the regulator body sticks out of the back. I have no idea why this is leaking, all the o-rings are in perfect condition and it's driving me crazy.

When the gun actually worked for the first 5 minutes, it would shoot a few times, but then pulling the trigger stopped doing anything, but the trigger was still reseting, so I have no idea what's wrong with it.

Please help me. Thanks

[athomas]

Does it have a level 10 bolt?

[ninja3454]

Does it have a level 10 bolt?

nope, level 7

[C_losjoker]

Have plenty of air? Mine does that when I get down low. back out the pressure, might be high?

[athomas]

One of the two lower on-off orings can cause leaking out into the body area. The two little orings on the regulator pin assembly can cause leaking out through a vent hole in the side of the valve into the body area. The oring on the regulator piston assembly can cause leaking through a vent as well. Any of these can leak if a piece of dirt gets in there.

It sounds like the valve is not charging. Either the on-off pin is not opening, or your air supply is not a high enough pressure to operate the gun. Is the velocity turned up far enough?

[ninja3454]

I doubt the gun isn't getting enough pressure, I have a ninja shp reg outputting 1100 psi. I'll check the O-rings when I get home and see if theyre all good.

[Spider-TW]

I doubt the gun isn't getting enough pressure, I have a ninja shp reg outputting 1100 psi. I'll check the O-rings when I get home and see if theyre all good.

The early RTs had a rail that didn't support the field strip screw o-rings very well. They have a pretty large chamfer on the side near the valve that lets that middle o-ring loose its seal. Tunamart has the replacement rails, but you might need to contact BigEvil to get it.

As a test, it sometimes helps to put a ninja reg shim under the head of the banjo bolt. This pulls the middle o-ring down that much more. This helped on mine for a while, but I eventually repaired the rail for that particular problem. You could also try a lower pressure bottle (~800 psi) to see if it seals up. A shim and a standard bottle worked on mine, but RT'ing with a ninja bottle would set it back to leaking.

Also, be sure you are using AGD o-rings or 90 duro urethane o-rings on the banjo bolt. The o-rings hold the banjo centered in the hole. If you use soft o-rings, the valve will shoot itself towards the back of the rail, throwing off your bolt setup and making it easier for the banjo o-rings to leak.

It's hard to judge that middle o-ring leak, as a lot of the air often comes out of the back, under the valve.

[Chronobreak]

The early RTs had a rail that didn't support the field strip screw o-rings very well. They have a pretty large chamfer on the side near the valve that lets that middle o-ring loose its seal. Tunamart has the replacement rails, but you might need to contact BigEvil to get it.

As a test, it sometimes helps to put a ninja reg shim under the head of the banjo bolt. This pulls the middle o-ring down that much more. This helped on mine for a while, but I eventually repaired the rail for that particular problem. You could also try a lower pressure bottle (~800 psi) to see if it seals up. A shim and a standard bottle worked on mine, but RT'ing with a ninja bottle would set it back to leaking.

Also, be sure you are using AGD o-rings or 90 duro urethane o-rings on the banjo bolt. The o-rings hold the banjo centered in the hole. If you use soft o-rings, the valve will shoot itself towards the back of the rail, throwing off your bolt setup and making it easier for the banjo o-rings to leak.

It's hard to judge that middle o-ring leak, as a lot of the air often comes out of the back, under the valve.

great advice, mine had the same issue and a small shim solved it. the output holes on the banjo have to be aligned just perfect.

i also used a sharpie to mark it so i know when it was at the right angle

[Spider-TW]

i also used a sharpie to mark it so i know when it was at the right angle

I have a big blob of red(ish) nail polish. :)

It also lets you know if the banjo has moved or not, and you can keep track of how tight you make it as you chase that leak.

It tells you something when it doesn't leak, then leaks after shooting and the banjo didn't turn at all. :argh:

[kcpaintballpage]

replace inner outer reg spring

[ninja3454]

Thanks for all the advice guys, I will definitely be trying all of this as soon as I get the chance and I'll let you know what happens.

[Kajo]

+1 on shimming the banjo bolt in some fashion. My classic rt was giving me fits, air leaking between the frame and valve. I finally threw a fourth oring on the banjo bolt and I haven't had a leak since.

[ninja3454]

Alright guys, sorry about getting back to this so late. The RT is now fixed.

The banjo bolt was the problem with the leaking and everything you guys said was spot on.

To fix it, I screwed the banjo bolt in as far as it would go, then I gassed it up, the gun started leaking and I backed out the banjo bolt until the leaking stopped. then i marked the position of the bolt with some pink nail polish so now all I have to do is line it up and I'm good to go.

As for the trigger not working like I said before, I fixed that by adjusting the trigger rod, I had it set way too far forwards.

The thing rips now and I love it, I also installed a level 10 on it and it doesn't chop paint at all :P

[Tunaman]

replace inner outer reg springI never had to replace these springs in any mag...ever.

[Spider-TW]

I never had to replace these springs in any mag...ever.

Glad to hear that. Those look expensive.

***

eh, $4 a piece from AGD.