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View Full Version : Automag 68 Classic w/lvl 10 Going Full Auto



Rogue Agent
08-24-2012, 10:06 PM
I'm having some issues with my 'mag and need some help. It has a classic valve but has been upgraded with a lvl 10 bolt. What is happening is that it is either firing once and then firing again when I release the trigger, or going full auto when I hold in the trigger. Sometimes a leak sounds, but I can't tell from where. It's been working fine for as long as I can remember. I clean and oil it after each use, which averages about once a month. But my last outing it started doing this. I got some ball breaks but I thought it was just the old paint I was trying to get rid of, and then it started double firing. The symptoms after cleaning remain now. The guns has been thoroughly cleaned since I played and it's still misbehaving.

What I've already done:

1. Cleaned, and rebuilt on/off assembly with ALL new o-rings.
2. Cleaned, and replaced the flat disc between the front and back of the valve (one note here*)
3. Inspected the sear for wear (it looks fine)
4. Inspected the bolt for wear (a slight nick in one place, but otherwise fine)
5. Replaced bolt spring with a new spring (no different behavior).
6. Lube, lube, lube.

*When I pulled out the valve pin with the spring on it, the spring was stuck inside the front part of the valve. I didn't try too hard to get it out as I didn't want to damage it. The pin fit back in it normally however.

All of the troubleshooting posts on similar issues seem to rule out anything to do with the power tube but it seems like that is all that's left. Any help or other ideas? I've been not wanting to take apart the power tube because my level 10 has been performing great for 8 years with no adjustment (seriously). Until my last outing I can't remember the last time I broke a ball in the gun. I was using REALLY old paint though.

EDIT: There was also one thing I changed between the 2nd to last time I had it out, and this last time. I removed my automag body (left power feed) and replaced it with a minimag body (right power feed) cause I wanted to try the hopper on the other side. EVERYTHING else the same, rail, grip, sear, bolt, valve, etc.

Please help!

Tropical Life
08-24-2012, 11:34 PM
what kind of on/off assembly do you have in the valve? ult or standard?

Rogue Agent
08-25-2012, 12:28 AM
what kind of on/off assembly do you have in the valve? ult or standard?

I don't actually know. I bought the gun used. All of it looks standard except the on/off top which is green anodized and has an oversized hole (i.e. the hole is bigger than the pin such that there is some play on the on/off pin). This is the only part internal or external that is green anodized. I'm guessing the original may have been lost and replaced with this? However this has been in there and worked fine for the 8 years I've owned the gun.

EDIT: The on/off top is the exact same as in my Minimag, also purchased used but from a different seller. Must have been a revision in their somewhere that had lime green on/off tops.

athomas
08-25-2012, 06:00 AM
Are the orings genuine AGD orings?
Is the on-off top right side up?
Is the on-off pin installed in the correct orientation?
Is the rail bushing in place?

Rogue Agent
08-25-2012, 07:45 AM
Are the orings genuine AGD orings?
Is the on-off top right side up?
Is the on-off pin installed in the correct orientation?
Is the rail bushing in place?

1. Yes
2. Yes, cross cut side down towards on/off bottom , smooth side up
3. Yes, grooved end in on/off bottom
4. What is the rail bushing?

211
08-25-2012, 09:31 AM
the rail bushing is the copper tube that sits in the rear hole of the rail
keeps everything aligned

Rogue Agent
08-25-2012, 09:43 AM
the rail bushing is the copper tube that sits in the rear hole of the rail
keeps everything aligned

I still don't know what that is. Is it the piece in the valve that catches in the Z groove? If so, it is there.

knownothingmags
08-25-2012, 01:16 PM
this is what goes in the rear hole of the rail and the frame.
http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.prodInfo&prodId=2095

Rogue Agent
08-25-2012, 05:31 PM
this is what goes in the rear hole of the rail and the frame.
http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.prodInfo&prodId=2095

Ah. Ok I see it now. Yes it is there too.

athomas
08-25-2012, 08:50 PM
If the sear and bolt are in good shape, and the both on-off top orings are in good shape, then it shouldn't be going full auto.

Is the sear pin pressed/snapped firmly into the rail?

Rogue Agent
08-25-2012, 09:57 PM
If the sear and bolt are in good shape, and the both on-off top orings are in good shape, then it shouldn't be going full auto.

Is the sear pin pressed/snapped firmly into the rail?

The sear pin sits fairly loosely in the slot for it in the rail. But it's always been that way. It's doesn't snap in. However in my impatience waiting for help I moved my old body back to this gun. No more auto firing!!! Apparently there are slight differences between my auto mag body and my mini mag body that the combination of automag trigger, grip and valve mixed with minimag body caused auto firing. Now to move my automag valve/level 10 to the minimag trigger, grip and rail and see if that works cause now I'm hooked on the different side power feed on the minimag. Gah!

athomas
08-26-2012, 09:02 AM
Check that the minimag body sits tight against the rail. If the pim on the bottom of the body bottoms out in the hole in the rail, then it should be filed down a bit to allow the body to sit flat.

Rogue Agent
08-26-2012, 11:44 AM
Check that the minimag body sits tight against the rail. If the pim on the bottom of the body bottoms out in the hole in the rail, then it should be filed down a bit to allow the body to sit flat.

I'm starting to this in may be either the sear pin being loose in the rail, or wear on the sear that isn't exactly clear to me that it's worn. I say this because, putting the minimag valve into the automag body with automag grip causes auto firing again. Weird scenarios, but seems to point to sear more than anything. Still not definite tho.

1. Automag rail, trigger, valve, minimag body - Auto firing (original problem showed up here)
2. Automag rail, trigger, valve, automag body - fine again (long standing config, prior to problem)
3. Automag rail, trigger, minimag valve, minimag body - Auto firing again
4. Minimag rail, trigger, automag valve, minimag body - Fine

Lesson here? Time to buy a TAC-One! :-)

athomas
08-27-2012, 08:16 PM
Check the length of the screws you are using to secure the body, frame, and valve. Perhaps they are bottoming out and you can't fully tighten the valve and body down.