So I must be bored...

[TimmyJay]

I got this crazy idea that I wanted to modify an automag to function basically as an autococker. I don't know if a blow forward can become a blowback or just stay as a blow forward.

Is it possible?

My plan:

Remove spring
install ram in front like a pump setup
install a 3 way in grip similar to a pneumag
install reg at asa or sleeper

reg to feed 3way
trigger to activate 3way and on/off
3way to activate ram
ram to move bolt

I know you will want to castrate me, but you can't say I don't think outside the box. Also, understand that the following cocker was my go to gun for 10+ years. I owned numerous other setups but this was my rock.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/ddntim/100_9419.jpg

[sQuidvision]

so if i understand correctly you want to replace a simple spring with a complex pneumatic setup? you MUST be bored!

[TimmyJay]

I know! Kinda in the mood to tinker...

[OPBN]

Its early, I havent had coffee yet, and still trying to wrap my mind around this. Essentially, are you wanting to set it up as a pump, but have a ram inplace of the pump? If this is what you're thinking, you could have a specail vert asa built that would act as a multiport block to mount the 3 way and the ram. Would you also need an LPR to feed the 3 way?

[TimmyJay]

Thats pretty much what I was thinking. Using a cocker pneumatic front block to cycle a mag. It would take the trigger pull to activate the 3way and the on/off. It would allow the use of a lighter bolt.

I really wanted to hide everything possible in the grip frame. Ideally I would like to hide an ans mini ram(or similar) in the automag rail. Threading the 3 way into the grip frame to adjust timing and run all tubing internally.

[need4reebs]

Thats pretty much what I was thinking. Using a cocker pneumatic front block to cycle a mag. It would take the trigger pull to activate the 3way and the on/off. It would allow the use of a lighter bolt.

I really wanted to hide everything possible in the grip frame. Ideally I would like to hide an ans mini ram(or similar) in the automag rail. Threading the 3 way into the grip frame to adjust timing and run all tubing internally.


so would it be a Pneumag with a ram? u got good ideas TimmyJay! do you have all the parts already? the STO ram would be another good option...second to the ANS ram! :headbang:

[TimmyJay]

I don't have anything but ideas right now. I sold all my extra cocker parts and we'll say I do botch jobs with the dremel.

I was thinking if it was blow back then the powertube area could be adjusted so it closes in the forward position and opens upon the return.

I guess it could be considered a pneumag with a ram instead of a spring?

[bbotts77]

I'm pretty sure you wouldn't want to remove the main spring. You'd probably want to set it up like a normal pump-mag and then add your 'cocker pneumatics to it. I'm pretty sure removing the mainspring (unless you add something else to buffer the bolt) could do some damage to your (marker's) body.

[TimmyJay]

Would the ram have enough power to compress the spring? I thought about that since the bolt gets some stability from the spring. I considered making a custom bolt and an insert to replace the existing bolt and spring.

I'll see if I can free up some money and get some parts.

I was looking to get some expert feedback so I don't waste money on something that isn't even possible.

It may not be practical, but that doesn't mean it isn't worth the time of tinkering.

A name like MAGNUM would be fitting.

[Ando]

Would the ram have enough power to compress the spring?
you would have to setup the spring properly but I don't see an issue with it.

I would love to see this :D

What do you get when a mag humps a cocker :rofl:

[need4reebs]

Would the ram have enough power to compress the spring? I thought about that since the bolt gets some stability from the spring. I considered making a custom bolt and an insert to replace the existing bolt and spring.

I'll see if I can free up some money and get some parts.

I was looking to get some expert feedback so I don't waste money on something that isn't even possible.

It may not be practical, but that doesn't mean it isn't worth the time of tinkering.

A name like MAGNUM would be fitting.


hit up super staunchy on MCB...he asked about a Pump Assisted Pneumag maybe a month ago...but not sure if he ended up trying it since not much feedback was given?

[TimmyJay]

Not much interest in this project on MCB.

Anyone know if the spring becomes fully compressed during the forward motion of the bolt?

I need to know the length of the small female threaded piece of an AKA pump arm.

Pneumag experts...could the ram that activates the sear be used to activate the on/off pin directly? Didn't know if the rail would need to be modified...

Thanks for any info...starting to think this isn't going to work though. :confused:

It would be helpful to see the rail/pump arm setup on a pump mag. How does the arm seat against the bolt? and what happens the the pump arm when the mag is fired...

[Tempted]

The benefit would be increased efficiency, decreased body wear and if you use a double acting high pressure cylinder, quicker cycling *ability*. But when you can cycle at 25+ times per second that doesn't matter.

The down side is you would add the necessity to time it and increase the chance of leaks and failure.

I've already toyed with it. The better idea is to use a Mag style valve on a Cocker. An RT Classic valve will fit in a drilled Cocker lower tube. Then you get zero moving parts during the firing cycle(minus the vertical on/off pin movement that has no weight transfer). This would make for the smoothest shooting, most accurate marker possible due to no "kick" while the ball is in the gun. If timed well you could have the re-cocking happen after the ball has left the barrel.

[Jaccen]

The benefit would be increased efficiency, decreased body wear and if you use a double acting high pressure cylinder, quicker cycling *ability*. But when you can cycle at 25+ times per second that doesn't matter.

The down side is you would add the necessity to time it and increase the chance of leaks and failure.

I've already toyed with it. The better idea is to use a Mag style valve on a Cocker. An RT Classic valve will fit in a drilled Cocker lower tube. Then you get zero moving parts during the firing cycle(minus the vertical on/off pin movement that has no weight transfer). This would make for the smoothest shooting, most accurate marker possible due to no "kick" while the ball is in the gun. If timed well you could have the re-cocking happen after the ball has left the barrel.

Now that sounds cool.

I've always thought it would be neat for someone to do an EPMag that looked 1/2 like a 'cocker. Mesh an Eblade kit or similar so the solenoid hangs off a special vert asa and then just route the tubing as usual. Your LPR mounting spot is done. Just trim off the ram hole or just leave it. The frame mounting holes should already line up so that's done. Tricky part would be putting the MPA-3 in the frame. I think there might be enough room once you take out the sear tripper (ala Pneucocker in Centerflag frame). Either that, or try something similar to Flatliner's "Eddie." Ie. have it push "up" rather than "back"

[Tempted]

Now that sounds cool.

I've always thought it would be neat for someone to do an EPMag that looked 1/2 like a 'cocker. Mesh an Eblade kit or similar so the solenoid hangs off a special vert asa and then just route the tubing as usual. Your LPR mounting spot is done. Just trim off the ram hole or just leave it. The frame mounting holes should already line up so that's done. Tricky part would be putting the MPA-3 in the frame. I think there might be enough room once you take out the sear tripper (ala Pneucocker in Centerflag frame). Either that, or try something similar to Flatliner's "Eddie." Ie. have it push "up" rather than "back"

I want to put an EP regulated Mag valve in a Tippmann. Just a slap in the face.