Any thoughts? I am sure this is already out there somewhere.

[TimmyJay]

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/ddntim/DSC_0962_zpsf6cbe68a.jpg

***Yes this is another Eclipse awaiting modification.

balls feed thru foregrip
re-drill valve so straight macroline feeds thru grip frame
field strip screw directly into reg back (new hole needed but would hold reg in place for adjustment)
No z lock really needed?
brings valve weight further over grip
trigger pants could attach to sear directly?

[BTAutoMag]

balls feed thru foregrip
similar mag fed design build before recently, look on tech forum

rotate valve so straight macroline feeds thru grip frame
on/off would then be on the left side of mag

screw directly into reg back (new hole needed but would hold reg in place for adjustment)
doesnt this contradict your above statement?

No z lock really needed?
its never really needed, just there for saftey so it doesnt unscrew when you have 1000lbs of pressure behind it and it wants to say hi to your face

brings valve weight further over grip
mags are heavy, but already pretty balanced

trigger pants could attach to sear directly?
first class ticket to short stroke city


:rolleyes:

[knownothingmags]

if you want to do it right you would want to design a new body and rail just for the mag feed design.

but i also see the versatility of being able to modifying existing parts to accomplish this.

[need4reebs]

oh hells yeah!!! any thoughts of possibly mounting a VASA like on the mm2k9 and using a 12gr and a spring feed along the left side of the body? either way looks like your having alot of fun as well as having some great ideas dood!!! :headbang:

[mpsd]

All I can say is: if you manage to do one, don't waist your time and make two of them already. You have a buyer here!! :D

[OPBN]

I would actually have to agree that it might make more sense in the long run to start from scratch rather than modding an existing body. Maybe mod for he proto, but if you have ambitions to produce more than one, you're going to have a much cleaner end product starting with a slug or block of aluminum than cutting up warp bodies. Seems like the idea of using the sear as a trigger has been tried before with epic failure as the end result. However, you could still move the valve forward and use a vert mounted ram to actuate the on/off through pneumatics or electronics.

Flatliner did something sort of simliar. While he still had a rail, the did move the valve and everything forward and had the valve input on the bottom and used a ram to hit the back bottom of the sear to actuate the on/off.

[sQuidvision]

Obviously not even close in terms of compactness... but here was something i put together using a similar concept

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?262517-Mag-feed-Mag!

[Jongyver]

87319 I have been working on one on and off for a few years. Started with a solenoid and board out of a Hyper frame. Now has a Virtue board with eyes from a Spyder. Made the body from 2" square aluminum, frame from 3/4 aluminum copied from the Hyper frame. Solenoid sits vertical under the on/off valve and pushes on the sear.

[sQuidvision]

Wow thats super cool!

[SoulCoffin]

wow... reading what timmyjay wrote, then seeing something further along in the build to visualize the concept... just wow, that is really cool! jong, does it currently work and do you have vids?

[OPBN]

Wow thats super cool!Agreed. More pics would be great.

[GoatBoy]

This was basically what I was thinking about when I posed this question:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?262891-alternate-trigger-sear-mechanism

It seems that it would be easier to draft new parts than try to modify an existing part to get what you want.

I'm reasonably certain this can be done in two 3d printed parts: a body+rail single unit, and a new grip.

It's the grip that I currently have no design for. The trigger would have to change as pictured into a direct actuated sear.

[TimmyJay]

Seems like I need to do more reading and less thinking. :)

What about a sear that has the down rod angled backwards. Similar to a reverse emag sear if that helps draw a picture. Screwing with the geometry?

[OPBN]

Why not just get rid of the sear rod and go pneu or electronic?

[Jongyver]

It works but chops paint. I don't think the warp is starting to feed soon enough with the Hyper frame board. Had warp tied to solenoid for activation. Now have Virtue board with eyes for a Spyder that should help with that and working on how to connect warp to board so that it will run the whole time trigger is pulled and when held. I also have to re do the ball detents sens I put in the eyes. I have an idea on how to connect the warp but working on another project now. I should be able to get back to it soon.

[Spider-TW]

Seems like I need to do more reading and less thinking. :)

What about a sear that has the down rod angled backwards. Similar to a reverse emag sear if that helps draw a picture. Screwing with the geometry?

You can re-arrange the shape of the sear all you want, as long as you keep the pivot point, the on/off pin surface and the sear catch in the same spot. It comes out as a "two-force member", so you can take whatever route you need from the pivot to the clevis hole. It could be a "C" shape. Actually making the sear is the hard part. "Hard" haha, get it? :rolleyes: