Custom Q-Loader Plumbing *Updated*

[Levi]

I wanted to get my Q-Loader hose plumbed a little tighter to my mag so I made up a little adapter to mount the low profile elbow right to the Socket.

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/Adapter1_zps6b16ec36.jpg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/Adapter2_zpsfb17177c.jpg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/Assembled1_zpsa0544c72.jpg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/Assembled2_zps6b11b69d.jpg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/Assembled3_zps7fff9e49.jpg

I still need to make provisions for mounting the detent spring that keeps the balls in the feedtube when you remove the pod. Otherwise it seems to work quite well. I just made the adapter this evening so I haven't played with it yet like this yet. I did just shoot a full pod through it and it fed without a single hiccup.

I want to get some playtime in with it to see if I'm going to like this configuration. If I do, then I'm going to turn a piece to replace the horizontal section of Q-Loader hose.

[knownothingmags]

dude that sweet, simple and awsome. thats awsome to see simple and smart things like this come up.

did you use a lathe?

[need4reebs]

Whoo Whee!!! thats some good stuff man!

[Levi]

dude that sweet, simple and awsome. thats awsome to see simple and smart things like this come up.

did you use a lathe?

Thanks!

I used a clapped out old Craftsman/Atlas lathe that we have at work. I used to have my own little machine shop setup in my garage, but all my equipment is now filling a storage unit. Its been a while since I've machined anything, and I had forgotten how much fun it is.

[Levi]

Whoo Whee!!! thats some good stuff man!

Thanks Reebs!

[need4reebs]

Thanks!

I used a clapped out old Craftsman/Atlas lathe that we have at work. I used to have my own little machine shop setup in my garage, but all my equipment is now filling a storage unit. Its been a while since I've machined anything, and I had forgotten how much fun it is.

hope it stays fun for ya man! better, more creative stuff gets made/done when you do it for fun! :headbang:

[GoatBoy]

I am quite jealous of all of you with machinery at your disposal for stuff like this.

I have my own stuff in the works, but I have to generally go through 3d printing to get stuff made.

[need4reebs]

I am quite jealous of all of you with machinery at your disposal for stuff like this.

I have my own stuff in the works, but I have to generally go through 3d printing to get stuff made.

did you have a Rail made using the 3D printing?

[uv_halo]

Many moons ago, I tried a similar setup with my Ion (Ion with low rise elbow, Custom adapter for identical elbow on Qloader socket). I shot the following video with some fresh Marballizer:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKAHZapr5p8

The very next day, it was blender city with the exact same case of paint, kept in a cooler. I was sure to get the length right (to prevent chopping rounds in the socket), I reduced the number of pre-winds down below the recommended 8, but I never figured out exactly what the problem was. I tried all sorts of changes to the gun to get it working: magnetic detents, spring detents, no QEV (for slower bolt travel), lower pressure (and higher dwell), replacing the eyes (which appeared to be working). For a couple months, I was the guy who had the reputation of showing up at the part, to work on his gun...

I switched the gun over to a warp (intellisynced with a Virtue OLED), and the problem went away for good, and it handles differing bolts, a QEV, High or Low pressure, with no trouble at all.

My final suspicions were (I never isolated it):
Fixed hose length doesn't allow for tiny amounts of hose flex to compensate for varying ball sizes (from case to case or even the same case as they day gets warmer, this would lead to socket chops during pod changes).
Fixed hose length doesn't allow balls to travel the necessary handful of milimeters back up the stack to prevent bolt clip.


I really wanted to use this system- I slugged through three years with the QLoader and I still have all of the pods/equipment. The last time I set it up was a direct mount onto an SP-1 with the pre-winds way down (6 or less), and it worked fine for a chrono session.

I'm not saying you've got a bad system. I'm really hoping that it works for you. If it works for you, then it must've been something else with my setup.

[knownothingmags]

it was an ion no wonder you were chopping :rofl:

[Levi]

Many moons ago, I tried a similar setup with my Ion (Ion with low rise elbow, Custom adapter for identical elbow on Qloader socket). I shot the following video with some fresh Marballizer:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKAHZapr5p8

The very next day, it was blender city with the exact same case of paint, kept in a cooler. I was sure to get the length right (to prevent chopping rounds in the socket), I reduced the number of pre-winds down below the recommended 8, but I never figured out exactly what the problem was. I tried all sorts of changes to the gun to get it working: magnetic detents, spring detents, no QEV (for slower bolt travel), lower pressure (and higher dwell), replacing the eyes (which appeared to be working). For a couple months, I was the guy who had the reputation of showing up at the part, to work on his gun...

I switched the gun over to a warp (intellisynced with a Virtue OLED), and the problem went away for good, and it handles differing bolts, a QEV, High or Low pressure, with no trouble at all.

My final suspicions were (I never isolated it):
Fixed hose length doesn't allow for tiny amounts of hose flex to compensate for varying ball sizes (from case to case or even the same case as they day gets warmer, this would lead to socket chops during pod changes).
Fixed hose length doesn't allow balls to travel the necessary handful of milimeters back up the stack to prevent bolt clip.


I really wanted to use this system- I slugged through three years with the QLoader and I still have all of the pods/equipment. The last time I set it up was a direct mount onto an SP-1 with the pre-winds way down (6 or less), and it worked fine for a chrono session.

I'm not saying you've got a bad system. I'm really hoping that it works for you. If it works for you, then it must've been something else with my setup.

Hmm... I suppose we will see. I've only put one pod through it so far, so its far from a proven setup right now. I will post up my results as I tune in this setup. I like how compact it makes the feedhose so hopefully it ends up being reliable.

[uv_halo]

it was an ion no wonder you were chopping :rofl:

You know, in all honesty, there was hardly any 'stock ion' any more. The Reg, the bolt, the board (and solenoid), the eyes, the detents, trigger, body, were all aftermarket from the best companies available. I got a kick because several folks lamented about using AKA and AGD components (reg and warp respectively) on an SP gun. I went with the Ion because, at the time when I started the project (2006) there were no single finger electro guns with rails.

When I switched to the Warp feed, that same gun worked great all the way till I switched to first strike rounds:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENq1kry82A8

I recently (May) took it down off the shelf, cleaned and re-lubed the o-rings, gave it and the Warp new batteries, and it went through the dinner battle at living legends without missing a beat. I didn't even chrono it before I loaded it in the car.

[uv_halo]

Hmm... I suppose we will see. I've only put one pod through it so far, so its far from a proven setup right now. I will post up my results as I tune in this setup. I like how compact it makes the feedhose so hopefully it ends up being reliable.

I'm with you! A good tight Qloader setup feels much better than any hopper-based gun. Keep us posted!

[Levi]

I'm with you! A good tight Qloader setup feels much better than any hopper-based gun. Keep us posted!

That's for sure!

I was a little worried that it would make my marker too front heavy mounted like that. With a full pod the ballance point is still about 5/8" behind the trigger. So far I really like how this setup feels... can't wait to get some playtime in with it.

[GoatBoy]

did you have a Rail made using the 3D printing?

Working rail, trigger, trigger guard, mag2cocker adapter ... I have 3 parts that I'm working on that are qloader related.



Levi: a telescoping horizontal piece would be interesting to see.

[Levi]

a telescoping horizontal piece would be interesting to see.

Not a bad idea... I'll have to ponder that one for a bit.

Where I'm going with this idea (if it proves out) is to have the q socket integrated into a custom foregrip so its even more compact. I recently came across some Solidworks models I started a few years ago with this goal in mind and figured its time to make some progress on it.

In order to continue with them I needed a baseline from which to measure, and I wanted to try the idea out without spending a ton of time on something custom just to find out I don't like it.

[need4reebs]

I still need to make provisions for mounting the detent spring that keeps the balls in the feedtube when you remove the pod.


just use the feed guide and detent spring that already comes with the Q-loader..that will be the easiest way to do that?

[Levi]

just use the feed guide and detent spring that already comes with the Q-loader..that will be the easiest way to do that?

That's probably what I'm going to do. The feed guide won't fit with my adapter in there though. So I'm going to cut it down so all that is left of it is the very bottom of it (essentially it will just be a black plastic washer). This should allow me to remove my adapter for easy cleaning without disturbing the detent spring. Getting the detent spring back into place isn't too bad when I'm working at a table, but its not something I want to be fiddling with on the field.

[need4reebs]

That's probably what I'm going to do. The feed guide won't fit with my adapter in there though. So I'm going to cut it down so all that is left of it is the very bottom of it (essentially it will just be a black plastic washer). This should allow me to remove my adapter for easy cleaning without disturbing the detent spring. Getting the detent spring back into place isn't too bad when I'm working at a table, but its not something I want to be fiddling with on the field.



could you bore out your adapter a lil so the feed guide will fit snug? keep tha OD of the adapter the same and just bore out the ID of the adapter?

did the same thing but with a PVC elbow and it worked great:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh230/jiggawat99/wrzq_zpse0644e6a.jpg

check out tha pod loader stand...makes loading at tha field so much easier:
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh230/jiggawat99/qloaderstand.jpg

[GoatBoy]

That's probably what I'm going to do. The feed guide won't fit with my adapter in there though. So I'm going to cut it down so all that is left of it is the very bottom of it (essentially it will just be a black plastic washer). This should allow me to remove my adapter for easy cleaning without disturbing the detent spring. Getting the detent spring back into place isn't too bad when I'm working at a table, but its not something I want to be fiddling with on the field.

Just because AIC did it a certain way doesn't necessarily mean you need to reproduce it. I would consider making the ball gate separate from the neck -- maybe just glue a standoff or something in the socket, put a hole in the gate and screw it into the socket. Either that or maybe try using a magnet -- I know reebs here is a big fan of magnets. Just glue a magnet into the socket and have that hold the gate.



And speaking of the loader stands, I remember a while back another thread where someone was complaining about having to bring a stand in order to reload his pods and how inconvenient it was or something.

I was like... really?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iq4Yijqz3as/SHcVxZ9KPYI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/f8r5jDon9ME/w524-h698-no/IMGP1649.JPG

[need4reebs]

Just because AIC did it a certain way doesn't necessarily mean you need to reproduce it. I would consider making the ball gate separate from the neck -- maybe just glue a standoff or something in the socket, put a hole in the gate and screw it into the socket. Either that or maybe try using a magnet -- I know reebs here is a big fan of magnets. Just glue a magnet into the socket and have that hold the gate.



And speaking of the loader stands, I remember a while back another thread where someone was complaining about having to bring a stand in order to reload his pods and how inconvenient it was or something.

I was like... really?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iq4Yijqz3as/SHcVxZ9KPYI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/f8r5jDon9ME/w524-h698-no/IMGP1649.JPG

very nice man!!! are you gonna market those...or start a pre-order?:rofl:

simple and works well...that box mod is wat i used before this loader stand.

[Levi]

could you bore out your adapter a lil so the feed guide will fit snug? keep tha OD of the adapter the same and just bore out the ID of the adapter?

did the same thing but with a PVC elbow and it worked great:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh230/jiggawat99/wrzq_zpse0644e6a.jpg

check out tha pod loader stand...makes loading at tha field so much easier:
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh230/jiggawat99/qloaderstand.jpg

Lookin good man!

How much paint have you put through it like that so far?

The stand looks handy too.

[need4reebs]

Lookin good man!

How much paint have you put through it like that so far?

The stand looks handy too.

probably only a case or two...then the Q-loaders went on the Nasty Mag....and the Nasty mag is set up the same but with 2 Q-loaders.

yeah DooD either tha box mod or tha loader stand makes loading the pods alot easier and faster...giving me more time to slam a few beers before tha next game...oh hells yeah!!!

[Levi]

Just because AIC did it a certain way doesn't necessarily mean you need to reproduce it. I would consider making the ball gate separate from the neck -- maybe just glue a standoff or something in the socket, put a hole in the gate and screw it into the socket. Either that or maybe try using a magnet -- I know reebs here is a big fan of magnets. Just glue a magnet into the socket and have that hold the gate.

I'll probably just cut down one of the extra feed guides I have laying around first, just because its quick and easy. I like the magnet idea though, I'm going to play around with that one and see what I can do with it.

I dig the box mod... that's probably what I'll be using until I get around to making a slick stand for it.

[Levi]

....giving me more time to slam a few beers before tha next game...oh hells yeah!!!
My Mag keep double firing!!!.... no wait that's just my vision....aww crap!
:rofl:

[need4reebs]

My Mag keep double firing!!!.... no wait that's just my vision....aww crap!
:rofl:


haha...they dont know if im moving really well..or staggering around??? too much fun DooD!!:headbang:

[Levi]

Here is an update on where I'm at with this:

I have a total of 3 pods of paint through the configuration in the first post.

Pod # 1 Using Draxus Bronze Blaze: Fed perfectly fine, no chops but I did have one barrel break because the paint was crappy (I tried the paint in 4 different markers and had barrel breaks with all of them)

Pod # 2 Using All Star paint: Fed perfect, no breaks, no chops Approx 90 degrees outside when I did this one.

Pod # 3 Using All Star Paint: I shot this one immediately after #2. I had left the pod sitting in direct sun for 45 minutes before I shot it. The outside of the pod measured 105.4 deg. at the point I used it. This one fed perfectly fine, no breaks but I did have one I would call a "leaker" meaning that it did not full on break, but was leaking just a little fill down the barrel and one small spot in an elbow.

On to my current configuration:

I redesigned my socket to elbow adapter to have two o-rings. It stayed in place just fine with the single o-ring, the two o-rings make it more rigid side to side though, so it won't be as likely to move if I knock it against a bunker or tree.

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/Gen2Adapter1_zps753cb683.jpg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/Gen2Adapter2_zps031760df.jpg


I modified the feed guide to hold the ball gate in place under my adapter. I just cut off the "tube" part of it leaving what amounts to a black plastic washer.

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/FeedGuide1_zps53119a99.jpg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/FeedGuide2_zpsb2eeafc0.jpg



I found that there was a nub molded into the Q socket that was preventing the feed guide from sitting squarely in the feedneck. I sanded this nub down until the feed guide and my adapter fit without a gap.

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/SocketNub_zpsdbb1a02f.jpg


I also made up the horizontal feed tube piece out of aluminum.

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/FeedTube4_zps8434b777.jpg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/FeedTube1_zpsbaeccd2a.jpg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/FeedTube2_zpsfa9ad21d.jpg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/FeedTube3_zpsbd013790.jpg

http://i1307.photobucket.com/albums/s588/SidedraftDats/Thread%20Pics%20No%20Delete/FrontG2_zps3b26683a.jpg


I've put one pod of All Star through this setup so far. The entire pod fed without any problems whatsoever.

The one thing i don't like about the aluminum horizontal feed tube is that it makes it more difficult to take apart for cleaning. I have a couple ideas on how to modify the ends of the feed tube to alleviate this problem. I will be trying these out soon.

[need4reebs]

whoo whee thats lookin Sa WeeT!!!

maybe you can find a few quick release screws or some thumb screws to make taking tha q-loader off for cleaning??

[Levi]

whoo whee thats lookin Sa WeeT!!!

maybe you can find a few quick release screws or some thumb screws to make taking tha q-loader off for cleaning??

Thanks, I'm really starting to like how this Mag feels in my hands!

I like the thumbscrew idea, I'm sure somebody sells some this size.

[need4reebs]

Thanks, I'm really starting to like how this Mag feels in my hands!

I like the thumbscrew idea, I'm sure somebody sells some this size.


easy..hit up tha hard ware store, get some socket screw head caps and a few stand off spacers and make your own thumb screws.

when i had my tippman A-5 w/flatline barrel i made some to make taking the flatline barrel easy to take off for cleaning. also did this for a few feed necks as well....they are with screws, bolts, nuts, and washers

hope that helps?

[uv_halo]

Here is an update on where I'm at with this...
I modified the feed guide to hold the ball gate in place under my adapter. I just cut off the "tube" part of it leaving what amounts to a black plastic washer...

I found that there was a nub molded into the Q socket that was preventing the feed guide from sitting squarely in the feedneck. I sanded this nub down until the feed guide and my adapter fit without a gap...

The one thing i don't like about the aluminum horizontal feed tube is that it makes it more difficult to take apart for cleaning. I have a couple ideas on how to modify the ends of the feed tube to alleviate this problem. I will be trying these out soon.

I really like this- it's looking really good.

I did the same thing to my 'top hat' ball guide- I assumed you had already done that.

I believe the lip in that section is there because the balls don't exit the pod at 90degrees (which is also why the opening in I.D. of the socket is oblong), and tilting the 'top hat' allows the rounds to enter the tube in line with the axis of the tubing (or in your case, the axis of the adapter).

[Dayspring]

That aluminum feed tube also eliminated a weak spot in the feed system - you won't break any paint if you take an unlucky shot in the tube.

Nice work!

[Levi]

easy..hit up tha hard ware store, get some socket screw head caps and a few stand off spacers and make your own thumb screws.

Good idea, I'm going to try that.

[Levi]

I believe the lip in that section is there because the balls don't exit the pod at 90degrees (which is also why the opening in I.D. of the socket is oblong), and tilting the 'top hat' allows the rounds to enter the tube in line with the axis of the tubing (or in your case, the axis of the adapter).

I think you're right about this. I haven't had any feeding problems yet, but if I do this will be the first area I will be looking at.

I can always countour the inside of my adapter and what's left of the ball guide if I need to.

[Levi]

That aluminum feed tube also eliminated a weak spot in the feed system - you won't break any paint if you take an unlucky shot in the tube.

Nice work!

It's also going to be easier to clean than the corrugated Q Loader hose in the event that something does end up breaking in there.

[GoatBoy]

I believe the lip in that section is there because the balls don't exit the pod at 90degrees (which is also why the opening in I.D. of the socket is oblong), and tilting the 'top hat' allows the rounds to enter the tube in line with the axis of the tubing (or in your case, the axis of the adapter).

If we're all talking about the same thing, I think its actually just a molding error. Never attribute to design what can be attributed to poor craftsmanship?

[uv_halo]

If we're all talking about the same thing, I think its actually just a molding error. Never attribute to design what can be attributed to poor craftsmanship?

I seriously doubt it. Just to be clear, Levi posted a pic after he dremeled the tab off. It's a couple milimeters thick, about 5mm wide and about 5mm tall. When the top hat is pushed all the way down to it, it cants in the same direction as the balls leaving the pod (if you unlock an unsocketed, wound and loaded pod, you see that they don't exit at 90deg (to the central axis of the pod).

Levi, I suspect that the orientation is more important for those using the stock corrigated tubing as the balls would press first against the inner lip of the tophat and then against the side of the tubing. You've given the balls a smoother surface to rub against.

[rukh013]

Just to be clear, Levi... You've given the balls a smoother surface to rub against.

He he

Did you make a feedneck adapter as well or is it just press fit?

[Dayspring]

You've given the balls a smoother surface to rub against.

And we wouldn't want a rough surface for balls to rub against. ;)

(It was too easy)

[uv_halo]

He he

Did you make a feedneck adapter as well or is it just press fit?

That's a good question for Levi. Do the ULE Warp bodies have fixed stovepipes or are they threaded? The Qloader 90 Elbows he's using require a flange on the stovepip to clamp around. If the ULE bodies stovepipe is removable, I don't think it would be much for Levi to make his own stovepipe with the necessary flange.

My Ion's Qloader plumbing went like this: Socket -> 'custom adapter'-> QL 90deg elbow -> Corrigated Tubing -> PTP Warp Feed Adapter -> Tarantula Paintball Stovepip Adapter.

The QL 90deg elbow fittings in this arrangement each include a hose adapter.

The 'custom adapter' was comprised of the bottom portion of a tophat, some PVC pipe, JB Weld, a QL 90deg Ion Adapter (normally used to replace the feedneck on an ion) and some o-rings. I may actually have the assembly somewhere.

[Levi]

You've given the balls a smoother surface to rub against.

Shh... don't tell my wife :ninja:

Looking at the openings in the socket and pod, it really looks like they are intentionally oblong. The tab appears to be there on purpose as well. Its certainly possible that the tab was added to the mold as a way to "fix" feeding issues that surfaced after the molds were already made. Its a kinda hokey way to do this but would be a cheap fix if the molds were already done. The addition of the tab to an existing mold would have been a trivial amount of machining compared to making the whole thing over again. There is something about that tab that just screams "afterthought" to me.

Looking at how my adapter sits in the socket, I'm really not expecting trouble but time will tell.

[GoatBoy]

Looking at the openings in the socket and pod, it really looks like they are intentionally oblong. The tab appears to be there on purpose as well. Its certainly possible that the tab was added to the mold as a way to "fix" feeding issues that surfaced after the molds were already made. Its a kinda hokey way to do this but would be a cheap fix if the molds were already done. The addition of the tab to an existing mold would have been a trivial amount of machining compared to making the whole thing over again. There is something about that tab that just screams "afterthought" to me.


That was why I was thinking it was an error. That tab wasn't there in all my sockets from factory, so it might be a ham-handed afterthought later down the line.

The oblong opening I can totally understand; it's simply the result of the the difference of the feed path with another curved surface. I've inspected the design closely and reimplemented the upper drive system for another part I've been working on.

I understand the path of the paint out of the socket -- I just fail to see how canting the top hat would realistically impact feed performance. My earlier sockets without the tab fed just fine, as does the socket I've removed it from. In fact I've learned the hard way that the thing works 100% fine on the few occasions where I didn't rotate the hose retainer all the way and it popped off, releasing the entire pod in about 3 seconds. Mid-game. And I even de-tension my pods to make them softer on paint.

All that said, you guys are probably right -- they probably did do it on purpose. So another razor supercedes my previous one -- never attribute to poor craftsmanship what can be attributed to a poorly thought out design?

[Levi]

That's a good question for Levi. Do the ULE Warp bodies have fixed stovepipes or are they threaded? The Qloader 90 Elbows he's using require a flange on the stovepip to clamp around. If the ULE bodies stovepipe is removable, I don't think it would be much for Levi to make his own stovepipe with the necessary flange.


The ULE Warp bodies are Angel threaded just like the vert feed ULEs. I removed the factory "stovepipe" feedneck from my body and replaced it with the Ion threaded feedneck that AIC sells. This piece has the flange to attach to the low rise elbow.

The feedneck piece would be pretty simple to make, I've been thinking about making one just so I could make it shorter and get everything even tighter to the body.

The one thing standing in my way of doing that though, is the lathe I currently have access to has its leadscrew sitting in a box of parts on a shelf. (The leadscrew is essential for threading operations)

I may have to put this lathe back together or something.

[GoatBoy]

So here are some parts that came in today. Actually got a few parts in these last couple weeks which will allow me to proceed.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RaBnkZASZdw/Ufxr2Qp528I/AAAAAAAAGJ4/_5Pfw5-3ELc/w1024-h768-no/20130802.png

The q-loader part of this is sitting on the body. Basically, I'll be drilling a warp-left hole in the body. (Eventually will be a D-slot for the big kahuna project that I'm still designing, but a lot of this was a test fit. All the parts fit like a freakin' glove. Also note the D-slot cut into the mag2cocker adapter.)

For the "neck" (I hate feed necks), I've actually just made a cowl which fits around the body. On one side it actually locks into the warp notch of the rail, so that keeps it from sliding forward and back. The holding tension of the rest of the cowl isn't good enough to hold, say, that SA-17 spring feed while running, but it should be enough to hold just a q-loader elbow and tube. I may augment with a clip made out of spring steel or something if necessary. Oh, and the cowl will cover up the other feed holes in the body when not in use. Single body, multiple feed options.

The part extending out of the body will just be a 0.695 steel Freak insert seeing as nobody has paint that large anyways. I'll have it stick out just enough to make the q-loader elbow happy, and nothing more, and put some sort of ring on it to lock the elbow in place. This should effectively be the lowest profile available (short of a totally custom elbow to begin with).




Levi, I don't suppose I could convince you to make me an aluminum ring segment or two which I can glue to my freak insert to lock that elbow down? Freak insert is 0.740 OD I believe. Cash in hand.

[Levi]

Looking good GoatBoy!

I really like the multiple feed idea for the ss body.

As for the rings.. I'm not really looking to take on more work, but I dig what you've got going so far and I can probably help you out. It would probably be a few weeks before I get to it though, as I have a lot of time sensitive stuff on my plate right now. PM me if you want to talk about these.