Retro Valve, or ELCD Frame?....

[TheSneakyPengui]

Im not sure what to get , can someone please tell me the advantages and disadvanteges of both of these products , Retro Vavle and Mako Storm Elcd Grip (169) I was just wondering the diff, and which one would you rather get, I also dont got a heck of a lot fo money either? What is this I hear you can trade in vavles or soemthing? Plese tell me more.

[TheSneakyPengui]

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[gibby]

In my opinion, I would go with the Retro Valve. I personally like the mechanical feel rather than a mouse click(I sit in front of a computer all day long...UGH). Also, from my last few games with my RT, I haven't found any problems keeping up with the electros. It's all about preferences I suppose. Either or, I'm sure both would almost guarantee you'll be shooting a lot of paint. With the electric frame, you'll probably worry about battery issues whereas with the RT, you won't. Haven't had any problems with it yet. Just make sure you have air going through that thing and you're always ready to play.

[beam]

See, now I am the opposite. I would get an e-frame. You keep your A.I.R valve which allows you to shoot CO2. A retro limits you to only N2. That was the main factor in my decision. Plus.....I LOVE the *click* *click* *click* *click* *click*!!! I have a hyperframe btw.

[gmag]

ELCD Frame:
You will eliminate a lot of chopping with an electronic trigger frame. The trigger pull will be short and "clicky". You can use CO2 with them.

Retro Valve:
Must use nitro. The trigger is very reactive; it pushes your finger back. You can trade in your A.I.R. Valve and get a retro for 200(instead of 280-300). Its called the "go retro program", and I believe you can make this transaction at CO Paintball.

My Opinion:
I personally like the feel of an electronic marker. Pressing the trigger is like clicking a mouse. You can set modes and change settings resulting in a more efficient gameplay. It also reduces chopping a lot because it virtually eliminates short stroking. Don't get me wrong, the Retro Valve is amazing. Shooting a retro valve is a unique feeling and is hard to compare to anything else. You'll be happy with either one you get.
~Brett

[TheSneakyPengui]

Nitro is not a problem, I alreay have a Flatline tank. A few more questions though.

1. Are you allowed to use your RT vavle/setup in tournies, mostly rookie and novice.?, because I will be entering a few more NPPL tournies this year, and if I cant then I will problly just sell my mag and get a Matrix or something.

2. How much do you think I could get for my stock vavle with all that stuff, its got one star, only used a handfull of times? (to lower the cost of the rt valve)

3. Is the RT Valve similar to the TM98 rt kit, I used to have one and damn! did I like it , there is nothing else like shooting reactive, I rec almost every weekend too, so I will be using it a lot, Is the RT adjustable from input pressure to the gun?

Anyhting else please tell me.

Thanks.

[gibby]

From what I understand, yes, the RT valve is legal in tournies. As long as it's one ball per pull. You should be good.

I know I took advantage of the "Go Retro" program which allowed me to trade in my A.I.R. Valve and get the RT valve for 200 bux instead of the 275-300 bux it would cost to buy one without the trade in. However, some people don't mind paying for it in full because having the old valve can be used to build a back up gun.

As for shooting the TM98 with RT valve, I wouldn't know much about it. Never shot one before. But if it means anything, I always have a big smile on my face whenever I shoot my gun. Getting the RT valve was the difference between night and day.

If you get an adjustable tank, you can tweak the reactiveness of the RT valve. I only have a preset tank so I haven't really messed around with the reactiveness but it is possible.

Also, I found that the Intelliframe and the RT Valve compliment each other very well. But make sure your hopper can keep up with the ROF if that's your thing.

Whatever it is you decide, I'm sure your gun will work great! =)

[TheSneakyPengui]

Can anyone here tell me what the rates or psi's are for the reactive ness levels with the RT valve, like wht input pressure would lay a certain amount of reactive ness.

also i will be getting the intelliframe with the rt vavle and stuff, so I will have intellifeed with my intelliframe, can anyone else post more about rt valve and there expiernces and such.

[Bluntman]

I got to try a teammates retro valve, and damn can you rip on those things. I've never tried a elcd on a mag, but I think that since the trigger pull would be short and light you could fire fast without screwing up your aim. I didn't actually get to play with the retro valve, just dry fire, but it was still pretty cool.

[FatMan]

Originally posted by TheSneakyPengui
Can anyone here tell me what the rates or psi's are for the reactive ness levels with the RT valve, like wht input pressure would lay a certain amount of reactive ness.

also i will be getting the intelliframe with the rt vavle and stuff, so I will have intellifeed with my intelliframe, can anyone else post more about rt valve and there expiernces and such.

I've been shooting a ReTro Valve on a regular Mag for about 3 years. The ReTro Valve is nothing like the TM98 thingy - its a totally different thing. I tend to set my reg about 700psi. I know people who run more like 600 psi and have a less reactive trigger, but you can also run up around 750psi and get more reactive. I don't find the trigger to be *noticably* reactive at 700psi, I just don't short stroke it - ever. I can fire off a string as fast as I need to and find the gun to be pretty stable. I generally don't like electro thingys - the RT valve is the answer to my situation.

RT valves are legal in every tourney and event I've seen - unless its like a pump event or something. My RT valve has been extremely reliable - minimal maintenance - and never runs out of batteries. No adjustments needed, it just works. I have never felt out gunned by anyone - Angels, Cockers, Bushies, whatever.

I recommend the ELCD (whoopse! just joking)!

FatMan

[hitech]

Originally posted by TheSneakyPengui
Can anyone here tell me what the rates or psi's are for the reactive ness levels with the RT valve

When you pull the trigger you are pushing against what ever pressure the ReTro regulator is set at (approx 375-425). Adjusting this pressure is how the velocity is adjusted. Once the marker fires the full pressure from the HPA tank pushs the trigger back. The higher the output from the HPA the harder it will push back.

Hope that helps.

[TheSneakyPengui]

I have played with an RT a fe times before and that is the same thing as a Rt vavle in an reg automag right? He had it set so it was like a ceratin pressure into it, like 550 i think and the trigger pull was not reall reactive at all but it was very light, would this be posilbe for me to do. Thanks.

[TheSneakyPengui]

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[MAGS own YOU]

Id go for the retro, as it will reduce short stroking and will give you a reactive trigger speeding up yo BPS.

[TheSneakyPengui]

I have played with an RT a fe times before and that is the same thing as a Rt vavle in an reg automag right? He had it set so it was like a ceratin pressure into it, like 550 i think and the trigger pull was not reall reactive at all but it was very light, would this be posilbe for me to do. Thanks.

Can anyone help me out with this?
Thanks.

[gibby]

I believe he's just stating that the valve that's in the Automag RT is the same as the valve that you upgrade for the older Automag models.

Also, since they adjusted the pressure down, they were able to reduce the "reactiveness(bounce back)" of the trigger to a point where it was still a light trigger pull with very little bounce back from the trigger.