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Xmagterror
07-17-2013, 10:25 AM
Making this pole to see how many people would be interested in a classic valve cap to eliminate their regulator.

Patron God of Pirates
07-17-2013, 10:30 AM
Price is a factor

Mercenario
07-17-2013, 10:40 AM
I agree price is a factor.

(Can't think of a funny pole joke)

OPBN
07-17-2013, 11:05 AM
If in the $20-30 range, yes.

Xmagterror
07-17-2013, 11:20 AM
Yes in the 20-30 price range

OPBN
07-17-2013, 11:22 AM
Yes in the 20-30 price range


Then at least one, possibly two for hoarding purposes.

Patron God of Pirates
07-17-2013, 11:59 AM
Yes in the 20-30 price range

Word

TimmyJay
07-17-2013, 04:17 PM
I want 1 (and 2 depending on final appearance). Looks like you have enough interest already. Hope for some more

Just a question....I am not trying to kill a project....Could they be made small enough to fit completely inside the front valve section? I was thinking that it could be built similar to a screw in reg with the oring going in first, etc?

big poppa fluff
07-17-2013, 08:01 PM
this sounds interesting but im not sure I understand the concept.....as in you would replace the charger section of the valve with a cap?

So the you would have to control your velocity with a in line reg, Correct?

OPBN
07-17-2013, 08:30 PM
So the you would have to control your velocity with a in line reg, Correct?

Yes. Takes the weight off of the back of the marker. Since most people use a foregrip anyways it puts the weight there. IMO makes it better balanced. I have a pump set up with one as well as a pneu setup.

big poppa fluff
07-17-2013, 08:48 PM
Yes. Takes the weight off of the back of the marker. Since most people use a foregrip anyways it puts the weight there. IMO makes it better balanced. I have a pump set up with one as well as a pneu setup.

I saw the silver set up you have with the milled down rail...wow very nice! I think Im going to start gearing my project mag towards a capped valve and milled rail.

Know anyone who does annodizing for a reasonable price?

big poppa fluff
07-17-2013, 08:48 PM
put me down for 1 bro!

Dark Side
07-19-2013, 09:09 AM
Could it be made to still use the original side port instead of the typical end port? I don't wish to have anymore macro hanging out than I need.

OPBN
07-19-2013, 09:22 AM
Could it be made to still use the original side port instead of the typical end port? I don't wish to have anymore macro hanging out than I need.

Every one that I have still uses the valve side port...? Timmy J is the only one I have seen use a port on the back. Most people use that as a gauge port.

TimmyJay
07-19-2013, 03:38 PM
I was going for an airstar Nova appearance.

Xmagterror
07-25-2013, 09:01 AM
OK guys I'm in. I will have them done in about 3 weeks.

Xmagterror
07-25-2013, 12:52 PM
1st side of the prototype is done. Just need to turn the back side and tap for the burst disc. Thinking i might do a little ball end milling kinda like the front of a flatline 4500.

Has anyone found a good deal on 1.8K burst discs?

TimmyJay
07-25-2013, 08:12 PM
I think it would be cool looking like the field strip screw. Knarled and curved. Small as possible.

Are you going to leave the inside solid? Drill and tap the hole all the way through?

Deus hollowed his out, but think it would be better left solid. Just my 2 cents. I am in for 1 and maybe 2 pending final price and appearance.

Thanks for pulling through for us again XMT! Next, an aluminum classic valve body (precapped or not).

OPBN
07-25-2013, 09:10 PM
I'm more partial to smooth personally. Not sure if the hollowing out is necessary or not. Would think solid would allow for a thinner cap though.

TimmyJay
07-25-2013, 10:47 PM
I like smooth as well, but then you need to find a way to remove it without damage. I didn't care for the holes drilled in the side to stick something for leverage. Deus' were extremely light being hollowed out, but honestly it felt weak and cheap.

A thinner cap is my vote. Flush with the back is my ideal setup (Thats currently available)

OPBN
07-25-2013, 10:53 PM
I like smooth as well, but then you need to find a way to remove it without damage. I didn't care for the holes drilled in the side to stick something for leverage. Deus' were extremely light being hollowed out, but honestly it felt weak and cheap.

A thinner cap is my vote. Flush with the back is my ideal setup (Thats currently available)

I have one cap with the hole to use something, but I can just twist on it and it comes right off. The hole is actually unnecessary as long as there is enough meat to grab on and it not oily.

koleah
07-26-2013, 01:05 AM
Since theres going to be a burst disk somewhere in there, is it still going to be possible to put a gauge coming straight off the back of the cap?

OPBN
07-26-2013, 07:13 AM
Since theres going to be a burst disk somewhere in there, is it still going to be possible to put a gauge coming straight off the back of the cap?

Depending on the size of the burst disc milling, my intent was to retap the hole larger and either plug it or put a gauge in it.

peartree
07-26-2013, 08:53 AM
So with the right regulator and a RT on/off installed, would a capped classic valve go reactive?

nak81783
07-26-2013, 09:14 AM
So with the right regulator and a RT on/off installed, would a capped classic valve go reactive?

No. You are simply moving where the regulation takes place.

Any capped valve, whether it be an RT type or Classic type, will act just like a standard Classic valve. If you cap an RT type valve, you will remove its reactivity capability.


-Nathan

Patron God of Pirates
07-26-2013, 09:54 AM
What pressure does the inline reg need to output at for this setup to work well? Any possibility of having an SLP tank reg and eliminate double regulation altogether?

nak81783
07-26-2013, 10:03 AM
What pressure does the inline reg need to output at for this setup to work well? Any possibility of having an SLP tank reg and eliminate double regulation altogether?

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?264724-Slowing-down-an-X-Valve&p=2829425#post2829425

Post #20

You can use whatever regulation device you want as long as it's adjustable to control your velocity and high-flowing enough that it won't starve the marker.


-Nathan

blackdeath1k
07-26-2013, 10:19 AM
Has anyone tried to force shoot down with high rate of fire with this setup? My only issue is a concern of velocity drop starving the valve. Since now we are dropping input pressure farther away from the dump chamber. May not happen till 12 or 15 bps. Idk. Just a curiosity of mine.

Patron God of Pirates
07-26-2013, 10:58 AM
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?264724-Slowing-down-an-X-Valve&p=2829425#post2829425

Post #20

You can use whatever regulation device you want as long as it's adjustable to control your velocity and high-flowing enough that it won't starve the marker.


-Nathan

That post seems to discuss the needed input pressure to the AIR valve. I guess what I need to know is what pressure does the AIR valve regulate the input air down to?

nak81783
07-26-2013, 11:21 AM
That post seems to discuss the needed input pressure to the AIR valve. I guess what I need to know is what pressure does the AIR valve regulate the input air down to?

The 350-375 psi for a Level 7 and 500-550 psi for a Level 10 are average chamber pressures required to reach typical field velocities. Athomas goes on to state what the inputs should be for each bolt system to maintain good flow. So your external reg needs to regulate to the numbers above depending on bolt system, and the pressure supplied to your external reg needs to be higher. The numbers athomas gave are based on the integral valve regulator, so the input to your choice of external reg may be different based on its flow rate.

Even with these seemingly high numbers, the ball only sees around 80psi, I believe, by the time all the firing sequence actions take place.


-Nathan

Patron God of Pirates
07-26-2013, 11:58 AM
The 350-375 psi for a Level 7 and 500-550 psi for a Level 10 are average chamber pressures required to reach typical field velocities. Athomas goes on to state what the inputs should be for each bolt system to maintain good flow. So your external reg needs to regulate to the numbers above depending on bolt system, and the pressure supplied to your external reg needs to be higher. The numbers athomas gave are based on the integral valve regulator, so the input to your choice of external reg may be different based on its flow rate.

Even with these seemingly high numbers, the ball only sees around 80psi, I believe, by the time all the firing sequence actions take place.


-Nathan

Thanks for clearing that up. That's actually quite surprising. My Nitro Duck X-Stream should work just fine then (in theory). It's flow rate is high enough to not starve any of my RT's and it is externally adjustable.

OPBN
07-26-2013, 01:07 PM
I'm going to air up my capped valve pump when I get home. I believe AThomas' numbers but swear mine is running closer to 600to the valve. I might be mistaken though. I do remember when I was running it on 12ies and had the valve devolumized that it was running even higher to get FPS in the correct range.

Timmy J was running his straight from an adjustable tank reg. As long as its adjustable enough and consistent enough an adjustable tank reg will work.

OPBN
07-26-2013, 02:03 PM
I aired up on my capped pump and am currently running about 540psi and a little hot. Shots are in the 285-294 range. On my way back out, so I can do some more checking later if needed. Level 7 bolt, freak bored barrel and I don't really underbore.

nak81783
07-26-2013, 02:18 PM
As long as its adjustable enough and consistent enough an adjustable tank reg will work.

I came back to mention that I had forgotten the consistency portion. Some tank regs may not be. Thanks for filling in what I left out.


-Nathan