RT classic body compatability question

[big poppa fluff]

OK Mag Guru's here one for you...

Im starting on Mag project #2 and I want to use a RT Classic body, E-Mag valve, standard AM/MM rail, standard sear, and intelliframe. I know I will have to modify the body to run the air line to the valve. Im thinking about notching the body so the fitting just slides thru it.

My question is:
Will all the parts I listed work in a RT Classic body?:confused:

I like the long body look of the RT Classic, and I also got if for a good price from bigbthebenji. Ive never owned a RT Classic so I dont know what can go with what.

thanks!

[rukh013]

the back of the classic body needs to be cut off. The classic RT valves were smaller diameter that all others

[big poppa fluff]

that is exactly what I didnt want to here:cry:

[big poppa fluff]

any idea about the rest?

[rukh013]

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?265739-FS-T-MORE-parts!

first pic

[dboggs79]

Yup, the only way its gonna work is to cut the rear of the body. Other than that, any other part will be compatible. The RT Classic valve is a smaller diameter than all the other valves. That's why it fits inside the stock body as opposed to sticking out the rear like most other mags.

[big poppa fluff]

well there goes my whole Idea...:cuss: I guess Ill have to conform like the rest.

[big poppa fluff]

.... Or maybe i can lath down the valve to fit..... Hmmmm

[dboggs79]

.... Or maybe i can lath down the valve to fit..... Hmmmm
Really? Seems like you're going through alot of trouble to get the same result you would get using different parts. Don't get me wrong, not trying to be a party pooper. We all have our own visions of what we want. Guess I'm just not seeing the same thing. Lord knows I've got my own ideas. Just not enough resources to make them happen, if they are even feasable. Good luck!

[big poppa fluff]

Really? Seems like you're going through alot of trouble to get the same result you would get using different parts. Don't get me wrong, not trying to be a party pooper. We all have our own visions of what we want. Guess I'm just not seeing the same thing. Lord knows I've got my own ideas. Just not enough resources to make them happen, if they are even feasable. Good luck!

I like the long body look of a RT but hate the rest. (banjo fitting, rt rail. Etc) if i got a RT valve to fit I would have to get all that stuff, plus have to fork out more cash. If i cut the body I lose the look i want and if I'm off the mark on the cut length I run into velocity issues.

I work at a oil refinery. We have machinist here who build 500k dollar turbines from scratch pretty much. I would like to think they can lath down a little valve properly without jacking it up. I just got them to turn a regular vert. Asa into a 25* asa. I can't wait to mount it when I get home.

[rukh013]

the back half of the original RT valve also has smaller diameters to maintain a minimum pressure wall thickness. I don't believe it to be possible to turn down an x valve and still maintain safe operation... please ask an expert before proceeding and injuring yourself!!!

[big poppa fluff]

the back half of the original RT valve also has smaller diameters to maintain a minimum pressure wall thickness. I don't believe it to be possible to turn down an x valve and still maintain safe operation... please ask an expert before proceeding and injuring yourself!!!

Any experts in particular?

Do you mean the I.D. of the valve was small. So it still allowed a safe wall thickness?

[OPBN]

Out of curiosity, could a Classic RT valve be retapped for side input?

[big poppa fluff]

Out of curiosity, could a Classic RT valve be retapped for side input?

But what about then inlet where the banjo fitting goes it would leak out of there.

[big poppa fluff]

Somebody on this forum has to know the different thicknesses of a RT classic valve and emag valve!

[blackdeath1k]

I've got a pro sitting here. That has basic half al half ss valve. Same as the old emags. And I have my personal baby. My classic RT. If it were me. I'd chuck the valve in a lathe and turn it down to automagrt spec. Mill the body to accept the side air inlet. And call it a day. But me. I like my banjo bolt.

Back parts all interchange. Granted. There could be an al quality difference. But I'm betting its the same. And a better kicker. And the easiest way to pull this off. Get a back regulator half off an classic rt. And screw it on the front half of the retro or emag setup. Yes I just got done testing if this worked. That way all you have to turn down is the front ss section.

[OPBN]

But what about then inlet where the banjo fitting goes it would leak out of there.

Red loctite and a grub screw.

[big poppa fluff]

I've got a pro sitting here. That has basic half al half ss valve. Same as the old emags. And I have my personal baby. My classic RT. If it were me. I'd chuck the valve in a lathe and turn it down to automagrt spec. Mill the body to accept the side air inlet. And call it a day. But me. I like my banjo bolt.

Back parts all interchange. Granted. There could be an al quality difference. But I'm betting its the same. And a better kicker. And the easiest way to pull this off. Get a back regulator half off an classic rt. And screw it on the front half of the retro or emag setup. Yes I just got done testing if this worked. That way all you have to turn down is the front ss section.
So your pretty sure if I turn it down i won't kill my self?... Like how sure? I'm good with anything over 75%

[dboggs79]

If interests you at all, I'm currently working on gathering pieces for a build. I'll be milling a rail for a Classic RT. Granted, it will still use a banjo bolt. But, it will do away with what I think is a hideous stock rail. No more unnecessary inlet ports cluttering things up. And will be considerably lighter to boot. I'm hoping to have all the parts and atleast a functioning rail in maybe two weeks. May take me longer to finish up cosmetic touches.

[blackdeath1k]

So your pretty sure if I turn it down i won't kill my self?... Like how sure? I'm good with anything over 75%

All internals swap out. So they did not change anything physically other that the outside OD. The reg body even swaps out. That said they could have changed al spec. 6000 instead of 7000 ect. But I'm betting they didn't change anything other than the od. Standard agd overkill. Nothing wrong with that. And the front half is one giant chunk of ss. Me. If I was doing this. If I already own a valve. I'd turn it down. If I didn't I'd try and find a pro front half. And a classic back half. That way the field strip pin is in the correct spot for the classic body. Vs where it is on a pro. Emag. X. Classic valve. Ect.

[need4reebs]

Somebody on this forum has to know the different thicknesses of a RT classic valve and emag valve!

take both valves to your machinist. they can measure both right there. even take your rt classic body with you to help explain wat your trying to do?

[blackdeath1k]

I'll put a mic on the valve when I get home to give you an OD if your needing it. Just small enough to slip in the rt body would be my ticket though.

[Flatliner333]

Why not get one of xmagterrors : Aluminum ,centerfeed, cocker threaded, E mag valve compatable, RT bodies ?

[blackdeath1k]

Flatliner. He already answered that one. Like me he prefers the look of the full classic rt body that covers the valve. But he doesn't want the banjo setup that goes with it.

[Flatliner333]

ooooh.....nevermind... me= :tard:

[need4reebs]

I'll put a mic on the valve when I get home to give you an OD if your needing it. Just small enough to slip in the rt body would be my ticket though.

how thick is the back end of the RT classic body? can any material be removed from there to make it so a regular valve will work? the OP said only 1/32" needs to be taken off of a regular valve for it to fit?

[blackdeath1k]

A rt classic body is basically identical to all other mag body's but longer. So no. Drilling out the body for a classic is not an option. 1/32? That doesn't sound right at all to me. I could be wrong though. As stated. When I get home from work I will put my mic on it. I'll post spec of each then.

[blackdeath1k]

OK. As promised

Back half OD difference is .1255

Classic rt valve back half OD - 0.996
Classic rt main body OD - 1.1625
Classic rt main body ID - 1.0165

RTPro valve back half OD - 1.1215
RTPro main body OD - 1.1155
RTPro main body ID - 1.0305

Now for grins.
Classic minimag valve OD - 1.1260
Classic minimag main body OD - 1.1255
Classic minimag main body ID - 1.0500

[need4reebs]

OK. As promised

Back half OD difference is .1255

Classic rt valve back half OD - 0.996
Classic rt main body OD - 1.1625
Classic rt main body ID - 1.0165

RTPro valve back half OD - 1.1215
RTPro main body OD - 1.1155
RTPro main body ID - 1.0305

Now for grins.
Classic minimag valve OD - 1.1260
Classic minimag main body OD - 1.1255
Classic minimag main body ID - 1.0500

so by your numbers the rt classic body is bigger than the other bodies...looking at the OD numbers?

[blackdeath1k]

Barely. But yes. All the body's had variances also. I've seen a few classic rt main body's cut to be used with RTPro valves. Everything matched up and worked. I'd venture to say that is tolerances in the ss tube.

And for the general public standpoint I stand with my statement that they are basically identical. All parts interchange as far as fitment goes. All classic rt main body's will fit any other mag rail given the front mounting body stud modification or rail mod for it. Not everyone has machinist tools to check spec on stuff. And deff not tools that have to be calibrated yearly.

[big poppa fluff]

I was using a measuring tape to estimate how much would have to come off. I won't know exactly til I get back to work.
Also, is the rt classic body SS or aluminum? I was just wondering because it's so much lighter than my MM body.

[blackdeath1k]

SS. Don't think AGD did much with AL till the early 2000s. Lol.

[big poppa fluff]

OK. As promised

Back half OD difference is .1255

Classic rt valve back half OD - 0.996
Classic rt main body OD - 1.1625
Classic rt main body ID - 1.0165

RTPro valve back half OD - 1.1215
RTPro main body OD - 1.1155
RTPro main body ID - 1.0305

Now for grins.
Classic minimag valve OD - 1.1260
Classic minimag main body OD - 1.1255
Classic minimag main body ID - 1.0500
Thank you for this. You just made my job alot easier, hopefully the machinist at work aren't to busy this weekend!

[big poppa fluff]

SS. Don't think AGD did much with AL till the early 2000s. Lol.

Ok, I was just really shocked by how much lighter it was.

[big poppa fluff]

Here is a before pic if anyone wanted to see it. Sorry it's so dark.:ninja:
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj58/Daniel_Terro/20130808_130823_zps5d938d97.jpg

[blackdeath1k]

Never really thought about the body weight. Mine has been totally dismantled 3 times I think since 97.

No problem with the specs. Did that while inventorying a pile of pb stuff I'm getting ready to post up for sale.

Interested to see the outcome to this. I've always preferred the classicRT look also. And thought about doing what your planning. Just never did it since I use my classic rt as a main gun anyways.

Only point that I see that could matter. The retaining pin in the reg portion. On all normal mag valves its close to the back on the left. On the classic rt its close to the front on the right. And hooks in to the main body. Not the rail. Me. I prob wouldn't worry about it at all. But others might.