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View Full Version : E-LCD Mag (Booyah) frame issues...any help appreciated.



SummaryJudgement
01-08-2014, 07:18 AM
Hey guys,

I have a couple of E-LCD Mag frames. The LCD screens work. The trigger switches work, and the solenoid works.

HOWEVER, the solenoid does not seem strong enough to cause the sear to trip. I HAVE A BRAND NEW BATTERY TOO. It's the same on both frames.

With the frame off, I can press against the solenoid plunger with an allen wrench and pull the trigger to watch the plunger push against the wrench. It doesn't seem strong enough to handle the pressure the on/off pin is applying to the sear. This is with a Classic valve running CA.

Were the solenoids just weak? Were they regularly replaced? Is there an easy fix? Should I send it to Luke?

Any response is appreciated :)

Spider-TW
01-08-2014, 09:46 AM
Sounds correct. You need at least the equivalent of an RT on/off in the valve to lighten the load on the solenoid. Some of these old e-frames came with a new on/off assembly for that reason. BigEvil has tinkered with these, iirc.

SummaryJudgement
01-08-2014, 09:49 AM
Sounds correct. You need at least the equivalent of an RT on/off in the valve to lighten the load on the solenoid. Some of these old e-frames came with a new on/off assembly for that reason. BigEvil has tinkered with these, iirc.

Cool, let's see what others have to say before I pester BigE or Luke ;)

skipdogg
01-08-2014, 09:59 AM
Cant use a regular on/off for it. Either need the Booyah or centerflag specific on/off assembly, or a ULT (which wont run in a classic valve)
I love booyahh frames, they are fantastic!

BTAutoMag
01-08-2014, 10:06 AM
bigE told me that the booyaah and centerflag on/off pins are identical to the rt ones. havnt confimed this but I remember him saying this

BigEvil
01-08-2014, 11:58 AM
Try using a RT on/off with a .740 pin. You can also try to use the emag quad oring if that still doesnt work. That noid will have trouble with a classic on/off assembly for sure.

SummaryJudgement
01-08-2014, 12:01 PM
Try using a RT on/off with a .740 pin. You can also try to use the emag quad oring if that still doesnt work. That noid will have trouble with a classic on/off assembly for sure.

Awesome guys! I do seem to remember a new on/off assembly coming with these, but I'll be damned if I can find it. I'll an RT and see what happens. Thanks too all.

Any other input is appreciated as well.

SJ

BigEvil
01-08-2014, 12:44 PM
Awesome guys! I do seem to remember a new on/off assembly coming with these, but I'll be damned if I can find it. I'll an RT and see what happens. Thanks too all.

Any other input is appreciated as well.

SJ

The dwell on something like this should be low, like around 6ms. I don't know how the BOOYAA frames are set up, but use 6ms as a starting point. Anything over 10 ms and there is an issue.

You could also go shorter on the on off pin, but dont go shorter than emag length.

Frizzle Fry
01-09-2014, 02:51 PM
First off, you should be using a 9.6V battery - that might solve your problem.

Second, the solenoids were notoriously ****e compared the (real) Hyperframe so it could be on its way out.

Good luck!

RT Lover
01-09-2014, 03:37 PM
I run a booyaah on my pmi for back up and used it as my main at times..... It's badass

kevdupuis
01-09-2014, 03:46 PM
Since we're on the subject what would be a decent and easy replacement board for the old Booyaa frame, I fried mine good. :)

SummaryJudgement
01-09-2014, 04:33 PM
I think Luke may be the guy to talk to about replacing boards iirc.

I got it working guys. Dug around for a couple of HOURS and actually found the part that came with the grip to modify the on/off. I was confused at first as the powertube o-ring ate itself at the exact time as i fixed the frame issue. New powertube o-ring, works like a champ in all modes now. n

I'll also look into the 9.6 volt battery. Brand new 9-volts I use register as very low on the LCD batt level meter...thing. Other wise it's shooting and looking good.

I would be interested also if anyone had better knowledge of replacement parts and related info :)

Coralis
01-14-2014, 10:27 PM
I suspect you might be able to use APE boards and solenoids with some modifications though I never tried to do it myself. I don't think the scenario dreams universal boards are still available but you could try their site.

Sk8ermog
01-15-2014, 02:30 AM
I have lots of extra hyperframe boards that might work in your BooYah with some modifications. The biggest thing with the booyah frames is that they like the 9.6volt batteries vs the normal 9volt. They can work with 9volt just fine, but will always show a lower battery. LMK if you want a hyperframe board. Here is a pic of what they look like:

http://www.pbase.com/rgunn4/image/153802808

SummaryJudgement
01-15-2014, 06:49 AM
I have lots of extra hyperframe boards that might work in your BooYah with some modifications. The biggest thing with the booyah frames is that they like the 9.6volt batteries vs the normal 9volt. They can work with 9volt just fine, but will always show a lower battery. LMK if you want a hyperframe board. Here is a pic of what they look like:

http://www.pbase.com/rgunn4/image/153802808

Very cool! You will be the guy I hit-up if I ever need hyperframe stuff...and Luke ;)

I have the frame running on a Classic valved Minimag with splash kit. It's so cool I don't think I'm going to sell it :D

BigEvil
01-15-2014, 08:26 AM
Glad to see you not only got it up and running but also got a bit of an education as well :)