im having serious problems getting my mag shooting right

[magman313]

I have been trying to adjust my level 10 and I keep making things worse the bolt was sticking on balls not fully chambered, now I have a blender and my bolt wont stop on anything. I pulled out the ult that was in my x-valve and replaced it with a rt on/off. its rting like crazy, even when I have my tank input set down to 700 psi. my setup is helios body, rtp rail, rpg intelli, x-valve, lvl 10 with red spring on it. I had the lvl 10 with gold spring, 4 lvlx shims, and ult on/off in it and it was shooting good except the bolt would stick on balls not fully chambered. I don't know whats going on here but its starting to drive me crazy! :mad:

[BigEvil]

Need more info..

Twist lock body? or? What size on/off pin? What other parts?

[magman313]

Helios body, rtp rail, xvalve, rpg intelli w splinter blade, apocalypse reg, ive got the lvlx set up with red spring 0 carrier, no shims, the rt on/off is stock.

[Stealthpanda]

I don't know too much about much... but the 0 carrier sounds really tight. Possibly too tight to vent properly on a misfed ball?
All I got for now.
Thanks,
Jason

[fstop_22]

If you are getting an RT effect with low input pressure, you might want to check the sear. Sounds like you are having several issues. This might be part of it.

[magman313]

P Its a brand new sear, whats the messurement im looking for? Ive got a 1cm gap between it and the trigger

[Laku]

P Its a brand new sear, whats the messurement im looking for? Ive got a 1cm gap between it and the trigger

You mean 1 mm gap? if it's 1 cm it's way too much. About credit card thickness is the right gap to have.

edit: are taking the measurement with the marker gassed up?

[magman313]

yea I might 1mm and yes gassed up

[magman313]

well I pulled out the rt on/off I put into it and the o-ring on top was bad and broke into pieces. I think im going to get a parts kit and just replace all the o-rings

[athomas]

That is always the best to do with any new to you mag. You will know that you are working with new orings at least. Once you have new orings, tune your level 10 from scratch. I'll bet the whole thing works much better than it did when you started playing with it.

[magman313]

yea, ill bug you some more once I get a parts kit if im still having issues. I shouldn't though, ive never had trouble like this getting a valve tuned. one more question for now, what oring is it that goes in the carrier? and is there any other O-rings I should order or will the parts kit have everything I will need?

[Laku]

X-valve parts kit should have some lvl-10 o-rings with it if I remember correctly.

[Flatliner333]

Im wondering why the balls are not getting fully chambered ?

[athomas]

Im wondering why the balls are not getting fully chambered ?I'm betting that the bolt was coming forward too soon due to the full auto effect of the missing on-off oring. It probably wasn't giving the ball time to drop into the breach.

[magman313]

have been using my revvy, I cant find the battery compartment for my halo

[magman313]

also I only had 1 oring ontop of my rt on/off in my retro valve was that wrong or is that just different with x valve using 2 orings ontop of the rt on/off?

[athomas]

The older rt/emag valves only used one oring. They had a milled indentation that the small top oring fit into. Later designs milled the on-off area flat and used a larger outer oring to hold the smaller top oring similar to the classic AIR valve on-off area.