trigger rod issue?

[sabah70]

hey guys hope you can help. I switched from a classic frame to an intelliframe. my gun will fire once and no more. still has pressure( it actually popped the macro line). I'm guessing it's a trigger rod issue. first question is should I try this myself or send it to agd or tunaman. My second question is if macroline is safe to use with a a ninja shp reg. Looking forward to the responses

[athomas]

If it works with one frame, but not the other, then it is probably and adjustment issue. Put the safety on and air up the gun. Hold the trigger against the safety and adjust the trigger rod so that it is almost touching the back of the trigger (approximately a credit card thickness). It should work if adjusted like this.

Your macro line may not have the required rating. Most macro line is only rated for 300psi operating pressure with a 900psi burst rating. You need a good quality macro line. These can have a burst rating of more than 2500 psi. Even then, you need to watch for scratches or kinks that may compromise the integrity of the macro line.

[sabah70]

athomas thanks for the reply. I'll give it a shot. It already doesn't work so I guess I have nothing to loose. Is there any certain place to get properly rated macro? Not really wanting to go back to my local shop for it.

[athomas]

I use Parker macro line. A lot of hydraulic suppliers sell it. Check one of your local places.

[sabah70]

problem solved..... The frame came with trigger stops and was not allowing the trigger to move the pin far enough. changed the stop and i got it running. My next question is if it is worth it to try to adjust the stop or just leave it. Is it really worth it? I also switched to braided line and quick disconnects. strange looks from folks at the field.

[athomas]

If you have trigger stops, adjust them so that they allow enough travel past the trigger point and enough travel in front of the safety mechanism so that you get the proper trigger movement to fire the gun in all game situations and will allow for slight changes in valve and sear interaction. The trigger stops will give you a more precise trigger feel and by limiting the trigger movement, will allow the on-off to return the sear to a reset position faster theoretically reducing short stroking situations. I say theoretical because short stroking is more dependent on your trigger pull and release style than the time to move the on-off and sear. But by having trigger stops, you can limit your travel past the firing point and allow you to pull and release the trigger in shorter movements which often prevents you from over pulling and holding the trigger longer than needed.

[sabah70]

athomas thanks for that reply. So what is the best way to go about adjusting the stops? This is new territory for me.

[athomas]

The trigger stops are usually set screws that screw into the frame behind the trigger. Adjust the depth of the set screw so that the back of the trigger makes contact with it about 1mm past where the sear releases the bolt. You will ultimately have to get a feel for the trigger movement for the individual set screw setup on your specific frame.

[Spider-TW]

Trigger stops usually mean that you are not pushing the on/off pin all the way up in the valve body. That's good for shooting, but it can hang up when you go to pull your valve out. Don't yank on it. Before you go to pull the valve out, use something flat to push the trigger rod back into the frame, which should push the pin out of the way. You may also be able to grind a little ramp on the inside back edge of the hole in the body, so that it pushes the pin up, depending on how low it normally sits.

The RT pins can actually break if you are too mean to them. The others just get beat up.