Introducing the New Powerfeed body from Airgun Designs!

[zads27]

Well.. not really as the title implies.

I was getting a little frustrated with my warp setup (making a custom setup right now) so I figured I should have some way of converting quickly to a non warp setup without the fuss of changing the whole mainbody. btw, this is just a regular 'warp left' body if you didn't know.

Used a half broken thumbscrew elbow (just the thumbscrew part was overtightened, and it cracked where the thumbscrews go in) and I cut the elbow down so that only what was needed to hold the elbow/hopper onto the body remained. (brings hopper even lower and closer to center plane of marker for all you vert freaks ;) ) Also used two thick blue rubber bands, just to add backup support, since the elbow doesn't have as much to clamp onto as on a regular body.

The result: Blowback handling qualities of a powerfeed body, with a lower 'blimp altitude'(hopper height), and is more centered into the body like a vert feed (in fact the hopper is only about 1/8" off to the right of being dead centered)
Final thought: E-mag Xtreme body, different feed modules? bah. made my own, the "poor man's xtreme body."

[zads27]

player's prospective shot

[Phil]

thats gonna fall off... we call it the hopperless wonder... its a tough one to live down :)

[MikeCouves]

Lol yeah I hope it doesn't fall off, it's hanging onto the threads, literally :D.

[Havoc_online]

no offense but I think AGD will let you take all the credit on that one.....

[zads27]

Ok for one thing, you have to modify the powerfeed plug too if you want to do this, since the bottom of the warp body is slightly longer than the top. You just have to make a little circular dip around where the powerfeed tube meets the plug, so that the powerfeed goes further into the powerfeed tube.

Oh ye critics of little faith in the nuts from AO.. I filled the hopper with balls, shook it around, and it hardly moves.. only when I shook it so hard I just about threw the gun across the room, did the hopper even come out of place. I also did a "hopper hit" test :D ... I covered the hopper with a plastic bag (I hate cleaning paint off hoppers, it gets in the screw holes and everything) and shot the sucker dead on, a couple times at 15m (50 ft), and it did tilt back about an inch after a couple shots but it didn't go flying or anything.

[G-Rexx]

What was the problem w/ the Warp?

[Muzikman]

I just plyed like that on Saturday. I forgot to bring fresh batteries with me, so my warp was useless, i didn't have my PF emag body with me so I just slapped my Halo on the warp feed body. I plyed about 8 games with it like that and no problems. BUT...it fell off the last game, made a big mess inside the halo, made every ball I shot curve, and caused me to almost get hit (while trying to put the loader back on the second time). IT SUCKED...

So, I learned my lesson and came home and drilled out the emag so I can run the warp off the emag battery...works like a champ.

[zads27]

Hey Musikman, why did you have to "drill out" your E-mag to get the warp to run on the emag battery? (explanation would be appreciated)

I'm currently (working on) making my Warp/revvy/emag all work together, rather than as separate parts (all powered off emag battery, inteliifeed to both revvy and warp, keep using electronic eye in revvy as backup, have backup warp/revvy stuff, etc etc,.
long story short, I'm still working on the wires and stuff, and I was planning on playing sunday (before I could finish), so I did whats shown above. I ended up not playing though, no time.

[Panzerr]

No good. I cut down the powerfeed on my last retromag just for fun. Works fine until you want to shoot a long string. I'd outshoot the hopper a lot more often and end up chopping.

[hardr0ck68]

lol just what every $800 gun needs

[Muzikman]

Originally posted by zads27
Hey Musikman, why did you have to "drill out" your E-mag to get the warp to run on the emag battery? (explanation would be appreciated)

I'm currently (working on) making my Warp/revvy/emag all work together, rather than as separate parts (all powered off emag battery, inteliifeed to both revvy and warp, keep using electronic eye in revvy as backup, have backup warp/revvy stuff, etc etc,.
long story short, I'm still working on the wires and stuff, and I was planning on playing sunday (before I could finish), so I did whats shown above. I ended up not playing though, no time.

Well, what I did was go to Radio Shack and pick up;

5.5mm OD X 2.1mm ID DC Power Panel-Jack (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F003%5F007%5F004&product%5Fid=910%2D0906).

5.5mm OD X 2.1mm ID In-Line DC Power Plug (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F003%5F007%5F004&product%5Fid=910%2D0902).

I also picked up another DC jack that was molded plastic and used two small screws to mount. I can not find it on the Radio Shack web page, but they do have them at the sores.

I drilled a hole in the Emag gripframe at the small space where the battery lead come up. I then used my drill press and a carving bit to carve out the area enough to fit the jack in. I then wired the jack to that the threads became the neutral lead and I wired the hot lead to the Emag battery terminal. This gives me a very clean looking DC power jack on the out side of the gun.

I then took the plastic DC jack and drilled a main hole and two mounting holes in the battery compartment of the Warp. I wired into this jack a 12v regulator and a 9v snap. I think just plugged the 9v snap from the warp into the 9v snap on the jack.

I then wired up a male to male cable long enough to reach from the Mag to the warp. And wah-la...a Warp powered by the emag battery and it looks clean, no ugly wired handing off the gun that can not be disconnected.

I am running a Halo, so until I figure out a way to power it off the emag, this is where I stopped. But if you wanted to you could do the same thing to a Revy as I did to the Warp and then just make up a "Y" cable that comes off the emag. With the Revy, you don't have to worry about the 12v regulator.

NOW...I used a drill press and a press vice to do all my drilling. I would NOT suggest trying to do all this with a Dremel.

[zads27]

Originally posted by zads27
...I figured I should have some way of converting quickly to a non warp setup without the fuss of changing the whole mainbody.

Basically, this isn't for my main setup. I'm gonna be running a warp most of the time (only won't use it when something goes really wrong), so yeah.. this is "Plan B."

I have a regular E-mag powerfeed left body too, but to switch over you gotta take out the valve, body screw, sight rail screws (6!), switch bodies, and then put all those parts/pieces back in place. Lots of hassle, so I figured I should make a backup plan if I'm pressed for time (or too lazy) to make a quick turn-over because the next game is coming real quick.