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View Full Version : Custom mags in a wooden stock



Tryfan
08-10-2014, 05:19 PM
Question for those of you who have done this, or something similar to this. With the typical automag, the location of the trigger is not where you would want it to be if you put the rail and body into a wooden stock. Under its default location, it will be way too far forward for where you hold it.

I have seen pictures of mags in stocks that show triggers where they are supposed to be (but nowhere near where they would be on a stock mag), so obviously there's a way to do it. What do you do?

Thanks

Flatliner333
08-11-2014, 02:32 PM
Never built one but I would guess you would take the adjustable sear rod off the sear arm and attach a trigger directly to the arm ?

Dawg047
08-11-2014, 03:04 PM
Question for those of you who have done this, or something similar to this. With the typical automag, the location of the trigger is not where you would want it to be if you put the rail and body into a wooden stock. Under its default location, it will be way too far forward for where you hold it.

I have seen pictures of mags in stocks that show triggers where they are supposed to be (but nowhere near where they would be on a stock mag), so obviously there's a way to do it. What do you do?

Thanks

To relocate the trigger, you have to understand how the Automag sear and trigger works. When you pull the trigger, it pushes the sear back on its pivot point. This allows the rear of the sear to go up pushing in the on/off and the front of the sear to go down releasing the bolt. So, when relocating the trigger, what you come up with must replicate this motion. So, if we are moving the trigger back, behind the pivot point, we no longer want to push the sear back but now pull it instead. That's all. Its very simple. You want to make a tiny bracket to house a new trigger. This bracket will bolt to the rail and have a hole for a pin for the new trigger to pivot on. The trigger will have a second hole to insert a rod bent into an "L" which will thread on the other end into the factory sear clevis. You must remove the factory trigger pin that threads into the clevis. That's it. Here is a quick drawing I whipped up. Its not to spec by any means, but should help you out greatly. Have fun:
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww235/dawg047/Capture12.jpg (http://s723.photobucket.com/user/dawg047/media/Capture12.jpg.html)
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww235/dawg047/Capture-1.jpg (http://s723.photobucket.com/user/dawg047/media/Capture-1.jpg.html)

Here is one of the first custom builds I had ever made about 10 years ago using this method:
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww235/dawg047/IMG_2362.jpg (http://s723.photobucket.com/user/dawg047/media/IMG_2362.jpg.html)

Tryfan
08-11-2014, 04:02 PM
That is extremely helpful. Thanks a lot!

For interest's sake, I'm using the stock from an M31 Suomi. Should be great.

90006

need4reebs
08-13-2014, 04:04 PM
have you decided wat body you want to use yet? or how you will feed tha Suomi Mag?

Tryfan
08-13-2014, 04:31 PM
have you decided wat body you want to use yet? or how you will feed tha Suomi Mag?

I have a tac one body ready for it. I would like to get the plainest rail possible (since it is entirely enclosed anyways) but having a bit of trouble finding a really cheap one that will ship to Canada. If I continue to fail on that front I will just use the ule I have sitting around.

As for feeding, I have made no decision and am open to suggestions. The true Suomi used a drum magazine but that may be beyond what I can manage. I would love ANYTHING that will sit below the body of the gun.

need4reebs
08-13-2014, 04:43 PM
have a chat with goatboy….he has some Sa WeeT ideas for 3D printed stuff including rails….in this thread there was even a big drum fed mag…

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?266252-First-strike-capable-automag