Just another ULE Xvalve build **Updated**

[carnutaz]

Nothing exciting, just another ULE Xvalve mech mag build.

Little back story, I played paintball recreationally heavily from about 1993-2000. During that time the pro circuit was still dominated by Autocockers and Automags. The Automag R/T was the new hot sh** from AGD, and electro-markers like the Shocker and Angel were just barely hitting the market, and had not gained wide acceptance yet. There was no ULE, E-Mag, Xvalve, lvl 10 bolt, etc, at the time that I sold my gear and stopped playing paintball. The last marker I owned was a minimag with a bunch of mods, but I was running it with c02 and a remote line.

Fast forward to 4 months ago, and I take some employees out for a team-building paintball outing... I had so much fun I immediately knew I was going to get back into paintball after 15+ years. I hopped online and was shocked to find that AGD was still producing markers, and that everything was aluminum now. My initial plan was to piece together a used Xvalve mag, but then I got the bug and decided to buy everything new.

So here it is, my first new Automag in 15 years.

-Xvalve
-ULE mainody
-ULE rail
-Intelliframe
-AGD vertical ASA (not being used for air)
-AGD gas-thru foregrip (not being used for air)
-CCM macroline fittings
-CCM forward drop
-CCM on/off ASA
-CCM clamping feedneck (not installed, can't get ULE feedneck off! So much loctite!)
-Deadly-wind Fibur-X 12" barrel w/ full freak kit

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**Update**

Finally got the ULE feedneck off the ULE mainbody! I had to put the feedneck in a vice and twist the mainbody! I wrapped the the feedneck in several layers of electrical tape in an attempt to preserve it, and also to have a better gripping surface for the vice, but I was unable to keep it from spinning in the vice without using enough force to bend the ULE feedneck out of shape! I don't know why they used so much high strength loctite on a part that's designed to be removed for cleaning and upgrading.... I thought I was on a hidden camera prank show! In order to remove the ULE feedneck I attempted to remove it with my hands, my hands with various gripping surfaces, my massive 6'5" 300lb friend also tried with his hands, I boiled the mainbody and feedneck to loosen the loctite, I used a heat gun for 30 minutes trying to loosen the loctite, and I bought a strap wrench and wooden dowel and tried using the dowel for leverage and the strap wrench for grip/leverage. None of those things worked! Literally had to destroy the ULE feedneck in a vice to remove it. Also, from reading other threads and advice for members it appears several people have had to drill holes in the feedneck, use a vice, dowels, etc. I think AGD is great, but they should let the customer decide if they basically want to chemically-weld their feed necks on with loctite! Anyway, here she is with the CCM clamping feed neck! Thanks again to AGD and everyone on the forum for their advice and ideas.

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[Zeropjc]

Always nice to see a super clean mag, especially with all new parts!!!! congrats on coming back to the game!

[ScottyBeans]

Will look awesome with the ccm feedneck. Good luck getting the stock one off. I think rubber strips and a vice is the way to go for that

[Nobody]

Take body off and if you have a very hot tap, run it under the hot water. It should gum it up enough to start to be torqued off. Just remember righty-tighty, lefty-loosy.

If you don't care about the feedneck, you can drill it(big enough to fit a philips head screw drive). Then use a wood dowel big enough to thread inside the body. Put wood dowel in vice(ULE body will be loose and use legerage to twist it off.

[robertreed711]

Never had any trouble just using one of these.....

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[kfletch]

Never had any trouble just using one of these.....

91435

Ditto

[carnutaz]

Thanks for the compliments and advice guys, I'm going to go purchase a strap wrench right now! I still don't own a Tank, Mask, or hopper yet so I have not been able to tune the level 10 bolt. I'm sure I'll have some questions about tuning it, but I've read thru some of the tutorials on this site and it doesn't seem too difficult.... Any tips on tuning?? My Xvalve came with three bolt springs, including a red one, but I believe I read somewhere that everyone pretty much uses the same spring, and the other two aren't ever used or needed? Did I misunderstand that? Why would they be included? Thanks!

[vintage]

as i understand it the grey and red spring are for when the o ring starts to wear and you need a stiffer spring for the timing

[Laku]

as i understand it the grey and red spring are for when the o ring starts to wear and you need a stiffer spring for the timing

No.

They are there so that you can tune the lvl10 to be more gentle with paint.
But at same time they will raise the lowest fps you can shoot. Grey spring will need to be cut if you want to get below 300fps

[Cyco-Dude]

yep. the stiffer spring resists the forward movement of the bolt, so it hits the paintball softer. with the gold spring, even if there is a misfeed and the bolt retracts, it can still hit hard enough to crack the shell of the paintball. when fired, it would just blow up in the barrel making a nice mess lol. as laku said though, you need to increase the chamber pressure (increase velocity) to compensate for the increased spring force holding the bolt back.

the tuning procedure is to raise the velocity just until the gun cycles reliably, then chrono and see where you're at. it should be a bit lower (20 fps or so, at least) than your desired fps. then you just chrono up as normal. if the fps is at or higher than your desired fps, then you either need a weaker spring or you need to trim a bit off the spring you have (if you're using the gray spring). make sure to put the cut end of the spring facing the bolt.