Spider-TW
11-28-2016, 12:09 PM
I have run into schedule problems with play testing this thing any time soon, so I will just throw it out here.
What if you went to the same trouble to reset the trigger on a ULT that you would on a cranky pneumag? Throw in a magnet and a spring? The automag sear is magnetic steel. If you put a magnet in the bottom of a ULT pin, it will stay attached to the sear. Then, you need to give the sear a small push to return. I presently do that with a small spring stuffed between the back of the intelliframe and the bottom tip of the sear, opposite the clevis. It's a magnet assisted ULT.
The magnet is a rare earth (40 something, not the newer 50 something) .1" diameter by .1" long. I disassembled the ULT, drilled the bottom, and used red loctite to hold the magnet in place. The pin bottom is slightly magnetic, and it sucks the magnet into the pocket. Residual loctite can keep the pin from setting all the way down in the bottom, so that assembly could use a tweak to make sure the overall pin length doesn't get any longer (and maybe try to make it shorter).
On a classic, the spring return is a little squishy still. My ULT isn't tuned very tight. I hear shootdown over about 6 bps, which might get better with some ULT washers. However, the idea is to match this up with a light solenoid and an x-valve, and make that sort of setup more reliable.
Given the o-ring openings between the RT on/off and the ULT, I expect that if I can get ~16 bps out of a classic with an RT on/off (electronic controlled), I should be able to get about ~8 bps out of ULT with electronics. I kind of expect that my fingers are going to limit me to 4 to 6 bps on a regular frame, even if the pull is relatively light. So far, I have had no trouble with sear resetting or the ULT not opening up, even though I have not tuned the ULT to the edge.
Here's the pin bottom drilled.
http://www.paintballcity.org/images/Spider/img20160910095052959.jpg
and magnet mounted.
http://www.paintballcity.org/images/Spider/img20160910095233249.jpg
Here is another version I made, with a .125" dia x .125" long magnet, loctited on the face. The final assembly wasn't as easy as the drilled magnet mount. Since the drilled magnet mount is working (with the smaller magnet), I haven't gone back to this one.
http://www.paintballcity.org/images/Spider/img20160910112406459hdr.jpg
What if you went to the same trouble to reset the trigger on a ULT that you would on a cranky pneumag? Throw in a magnet and a spring? The automag sear is magnetic steel. If you put a magnet in the bottom of a ULT pin, it will stay attached to the sear. Then, you need to give the sear a small push to return. I presently do that with a small spring stuffed between the back of the intelliframe and the bottom tip of the sear, opposite the clevis. It's a magnet assisted ULT.
The magnet is a rare earth (40 something, not the newer 50 something) .1" diameter by .1" long. I disassembled the ULT, drilled the bottom, and used red loctite to hold the magnet in place. The pin bottom is slightly magnetic, and it sucks the magnet into the pocket. Residual loctite can keep the pin from setting all the way down in the bottom, so that assembly could use a tweak to make sure the overall pin length doesn't get any longer (and maybe try to make it shorter).
On a classic, the spring return is a little squishy still. My ULT isn't tuned very tight. I hear shootdown over about 6 bps, which might get better with some ULT washers. However, the idea is to match this up with a light solenoid and an x-valve, and make that sort of setup more reliable.
Given the o-ring openings between the RT on/off and the ULT, I expect that if I can get ~16 bps out of a classic with an RT on/off (electronic controlled), I should be able to get about ~8 bps out of ULT with electronics. I kind of expect that my fingers are going to limit me to 4 to 6 bps on a regular frame, even if the pull is relatively light. So far, I have had no trouble with sear resetting or the ULT not opening up, even though I have not tuned the ULT to the edge.
Here's the pin bottom drilled.
http://www.paintballcity.org/images/Spider/img20160910095052959.jpg
and magnet mounted.
http://www.paintballcity.org/images/Spider/img20160910095233249.jpg
Here is another version I made, with a .125" dia x .125" long magnet, loctited on the face. The final assembly wasn't as easy as the drilled magnet mount. Since the drilled magnet mount is working (with the smaller magnet), I haven't gone back to this one.
http://www.paintballcity.org/images/Spider/img20160910112406459hdr.jpg