New here and to Automags.

[Mcmann]

So I’m new here. Just picked up a Minimag. It’s stock as far as I know and hasn’t been used in a handful of years. I know this is a rabbit hole for money which I’m ok with. I’m thinking of going with a ule body and possibly an x valve. 100126

[going_home]

Just play with that one.

If you want an RT Pro ULE just buy one.

You will spend less buying another used marker then buying parts to upgrade that one.

;)

[JKR]

going_home speaks truth!

Besides, once you have one, you will want another anyway! :)

Welcome to the brotherhood.

[Mcmann]

going_home speaks truth!

Besides, once you have one, you will want another anyway! :)

Welcome to the brotherhood.

Thanks for the welcome. Yea I figured I’d end up getting more. I’ll probably just use it as is. Can I use it as is with hpa?

[JKR]

Absolutely can be used with HPA...Mags prefer it. Use a standard 800-850 output tank and she will be happy as a clam.

I would probably invest in new orings and seals. If it hasn't been used in years, it probably needs them. Mags are very reliable but also very dependent on oring integrity. When orings get old and brittle, you need new ones to maximize your Automag happiness.

Get some good synthetic oil and keep your 'gun oiled well. A few drops in the ASA each time before use will also help keep things running right. If you need to buy oil, look into either Outlast oil or Super Lube synthetic oil (its what I use).

[athomas]

Welcome to AO.

A minimag isn't a minimag once you change the body to ULE. The body is what makes a mini-mag what it is. It looks like you have a hurricane valve on the back, so the valve isn't a full mini-mag valve anymore.

Definitely get an air bottle. All rapid fire guns do much better with compressed air than with CO2. The next upgrade you need is a level 10 bolt. And, you should get an oring kit and change the orings. That way you will be starting fresh, so you shouldn't have any problems.

If you are planning major upgrades, you might want to invest in a whole gun with all the upgrades on it. It will be less expensive.

[Mcmann]

Thanks for the welcome. I have hpa tanks so I’m good there. I do wanna upgrade the bolt just need to order it. I’m probably going to keep the body as is. As for the valve that’s in it I have no idea it’s what came with it. This weekend I’m cleaning it up and seeing how the inside looks. Where a good place to get O-rings?

[jbtamu1011]

Welcome!! I'm new as well to the whole Automag scene. I recently got a ULE Automag.

I'd say look to Tunaman or Luke's Custom for o-rings. They are really active on here and can help you out, as well as any other member. Very helpful group here.

[Mcmann]

I’ll check them out. I want a ule for this one or a new gun all together. I can tell everyone is helpful. AO is very active.

[Mcmann]

Welcome to AO.

A minimag isn't a minimag once you change the body to ULE. The body is what makes a mini-mag what it is. It looks like you have a hurricane valve on the back, so the valve isn't a full mini-mag valve anymore.

Definitely get an air bottle. All rapid fire guns do much better with compressed air than with CO2. The next upgrade you need is a level 10 bolt. And, you should get an oring kit and change the orings. That way you will be starting fresh, so you shouldn't have any problems.

If you are planning major upgrades, you might want to invest in a whole gun with all the upgrades on it. It will be less expensive.

I just checked. It is a hurricane valve.

[Flatliner333]

That body would look great if you got it highly polished or maybe even jeweled .

[jbtamu1011]

I think from reading his post that Xmagterror is going to be making some carbon fiber two piece ULE bodies late this year. You can get one with a minimag front to keep the look but it would meet your ULE requirement.

[Mcmann]

I think from reading his post that Xmagterror is going to be making some carbon fiber two piece ULE bodies late this year. You can get one with a minimag front to keep the look but it would meet your ULE requirement.

What’s the price tag

[Mcmann]

That body would look great if you got it highly polished or maybe even jeweled .


I don’t know the first thing about polishing

[Flatliner333]

AO user Spider-TW used to offer Jeweling services, I'm not sure if he still does.

[jbtamu1011]

What’s the price tag

Here's the link to his post. Has some pictures of what they look like. They maybe $250. Might need to double check though. Post #68 has the different fronts he offers.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?274326-interest-in-another-run-of-carbon-fiber-2-piece-XULE-Bodies

[Walking Stick]

What’s the price tag

$250 for the carbon fiber bodies. Search his name to find the threads.

He also mentioned bringing back the ULE Minimag and RT bodies which were $185 the first time around '13.

[Mcmann]

$250 for the carbon fiber bodies. Search his name to find the threads.

He also mentioned bringing back the ULE Minimag and RT bodies which were $185 the first time around '13.

Those look really nice

[Mcmann]

I want to build something nice. I know everyone says it’s cheaper to buy a built one. But I don’t mind going all and with this one

[Walking Stick]

I think half the fun of 'Mag ownership is playing around with all the various interchangeable parts!

But you have to temper your expectations a bit - some parts hardly ever pop up, are pretty darn pricey, or take a while to be made. Let's be serious about that last one though - it's not producing the income to support a family or line one's pockets with money, it's a labor of love and enjoyment.

[hillg]

I am just getting back into paintball for i think the 3rd time. I always get mags and I told myself I don't need to go crazy and get a classic mag, so I did a week ago. Since then I have purchased a Lukes customer rail, foregrip and another mag with xvalve, intelli and ule. These things are addictive!!

[hillg]

Oh and I found another mag on the let go app, $60 with a booyeh frame.

[Mcmann]

I think half the fun of 'Mag ownership is playing around with all the various interchangeable parts!

But you have to temper your expectations a bit - some parts hardly ever pop up, are pretty darn pricey, or take a while to be made. Let's be serious about that last one though - it's not producing the income to support a family or line one's pockets with money, it's a labor of love and enjoyment.

Yea I know some are hard to find and some are not around. But that’s half the fun. I just want a good shooter to have fun with

[Mcmann]

Ordering an Oring kit tonight. Now to find a cleaner mm valve to throw a lvl 10 set up in

[going_home]

I am just getting back into paintball for i think the 3rd time. I always get mags and I told myself I don't need to go crazy and get a classic mag, so I did a week ago. Since then I have purchased a Lukes customer rail, foregrip and another mag with xvalve, intelli and ule. These things are addictive!!

Whats a Lukes customer rail ?


:confused:

[hillg]

Luke’s customs, auto correct on iPhone

[athomas]

I don’t know the first thing about polishingPolishing is really easy. Start with a coarse sandpaper to smooth the glass beaded surface. I like a wet sanding paper. Start with something like 240 grit. Sand the whole body until there are no rough spots left from the glass beaded finish. Then, once the surface is nice and smooth, but dull, go to 400 grit which will give it a smoother but still dull look. The final stage should be 1000 or preferably 1500 grit to really smooth it and almost make it shiny. You finish the job by applying a metal polish with a terry cloth or something similar. The final result will be a mirror finish.

[JKR]

Another option for stainless bodies is to get a Cerekote finish. I had my Minimag body painted using Cerekote and it is holding up very well. It is supposed to be more durable that Duracoat or powder coating.

[Mcmann]

Polishing is really easy. Start with a coarse sandpaper to smooth the glass beaded surface. I like a wet sanding paper. Start with something like 240 grit. Sand the whole body until there are no rough spots left from the glass beaded finish. Then, once the surface is nice and smooth, but dull, go to 400 grit which will give it a smoother but still dull look. The final stage should be 1000 or preferably 1500 grit to really smooth it and almost make it shiny. You finish the job by applying a metal polish with a terry cloth or something similar. The final result will be a mirror finish.

That doesn’t seem to bad just time consuming. Thank you.

[Mcmann]

Another option for stainless bodies is to get a Cerekote finish. I had my Minimag body painted using Cerekote and it is holding up very well. It is supposed to be more durable that Duracoat or powder coating.


I thought about that but need to find someone that does it.

[SWE HooK]

welcome Mcmann to automags.org

[Mcmann]

welcome Mcmann to automags.org

Thanks for the welcome