So I am finally a mag owner (lots of easy questions I'm sure)

[trbo323]

So, finally picked up my first mag

Minimag,
Centerflag hyper frame
X valve/lvl 10
Dye regulator of some sort, foam on the outside, and I don't see any adjustment screw. Odd

So I'm sure these are some basic questions to you guys but being new to mags, I have no idea about a lot of the specifics of mags (I'm not new to paintball though)

1) what kind of psi do I need to run this on? Will I need a shp reg or will standard HP be fine?

2) eventually, I would like to turn this into a mechanical, but I have a benchmark frame that came with it, I'm pretty sure I can just swap that straight on correct?

3) long term I would be looking for a double finger mechanical frame, is there any huge difference in frames I need to know about

4) one of the big things long term is I would like to move the front grip/regulator further forward so it has a bit of an extended reach, do I just need a new rail for this?

5) also big thing long term is moving it to a center feed and cocker threads, I know there are bodies out there with that, is there anything I need to know about making that move? Will this rail work or do I need a different rail?

6) what is the hyper frame worth?

7) maybe the dumbest question but just to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong, do the regulators just unscrew? If so this dye one is on there super tight so I want to make sure before I go using tools to get it off (also any info on this regulator is appreciated, I've never seen it before)

8) what are the little shims for in the third photo? There are a few more in the parts that came with, what does adding and removing them do?

9) what are these little collars for (second to last photo)

10) last photo, are these even mag parts?

11) how hard is it to get rebuild kits for these? I know they use a lot of polyurethane rings so I would like to get the correct ones (unless bunas work just fine, I have tons of buna rings already)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190805/8487c53b1c1b1bb58359fe179368f53c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190805/af2657ad5cbdaf0c964376bd50b3d75c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190805/20718af5565e66b41f181721b0593de5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190805/f7ebdde74d72770690d0cc0b16ffa48d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190805/b2ad6c8560f04971a9713b07b4878bbf.jpg

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[Xazhe]

I can help with a little:
1)normal hpa should be ok. I ran my xvalve on normal 800psi tank and it worked great.
2) yes, you can swap in just about any frame.
3) unless you buy a fancy pneumatic frame or an electronic frame, the internals are really very simple. The rail houses the sear, so usually a frame just has the trigger and safety on it. Never bought an electro frame or a pneu frame, but the doubles and singles should go on just about anything
4)adding a longer rail should achieve your goal of moving the grip forward. Lukescustoms has some awesome ones.
5) that rail should work with just about every body as far as i know, but you wi need to remove the piece for the twist lock (it's press fit into the rail)
7) yeah, it just screws in. It may not be a reg at all actually, since the valve has a reg built into it, it is likely to just be a gas through grip
10) the collars are for setting the level 10 bolt, so dont get rid of those
11) rebuild kits are pretty easy to come by and mags are easy to rebuild. Agd's website will probably have one. If not, hit up tunamart, they are super helpful there.
I should mention that if your mad isnt leaking, its best to let it be and just throw some oil in it. They have a break in period when you replace the seals, so its a bit different than when you rebuild other guns.

Nice find on that mag! Looks like a sweet setup

[vintage]

the 3rd photo is a ULT on/off (i think) and the spacers are how you adjust the feel of the trigger, you do not use it with a hyper frame as they have their own but if you change frames you might want it and you might want a regular rt one

the 4th photo are spacer for the classic valve power tube. you don't use them with the X valve at all.

[Walking Stick]

1) Standard 800-850psi is fine; you go Super High Pressure only if you want to help that Reactive Trigger really bounce.

2) Not sure how exactly how the HyperFrame is setup but it probably has the stock sear with the trigger rod removed. So once you have a trigger rod you're good to put a mech frame on it. Just adjust the rod so there's a credit card thick gap between it and trigger when gassed up.

3) Winged rails can only fit on AM/MM bodies; flat wingless frames can fit on any rail (though aesthetically some wider ones may stick out and form a little ledge against tapered-bottom AM/MM rails). A very few frames have a larger hole in the back for a banjo bolt instead of field strip screw - so avoid Benchmark frames lasered "Automag RT". Ypu have so many double-trigger frame options out there! You can easily find the ubiquitous Intelliframe or try out AGD's new X-Frame, Nummech's gas-through, one of Luke's or the KAM M86v2 available in the AO Dealer's section.

4) An Emag/RT Pro/9.1"-length rail can achieve that though the specific rail may or may not work with certain foregrips (AM/MM single-hole winged foregrips are threaded differently than two-hole flat foregrips and jeweled Emag rails actually have no provisions for foregrip mounting!). Alternately, a KAPP or one of Luke's various foregrip extenders can also work.

5) ULE bodies usually pop up for around $125 (or quickly nab one of the limited-production $205 Minimag or RT-style ULE bodies from AO dealer XMT before they're GONE) and take 'Cocker barrels, Angel feednecks and Angel detents (look to AGD, Doc's Machine or the rebuildable ones from Nummech). The ULEs have a round lug on the bottom where the screw through the front of the frame holds it all together (your steel body will have a rectangular lug). ULEs should fit rails with both round and rectangular recesses but steelies only the latter. To use that rail with a ULE tap out the Twist-Lock varrel detent from the bottom and make sure you have the field strip screw frame/rail bushing in there!

6) I don't shoot electronics so I'm a little unsure, $150-250? Condition looks good but is it fully functional? I think the HyperFrames had a unique on/off valve that went with it.

7) It's a DYE foregrip. The back half of your valve is actually a regulator so besides your HPA tank reg no other secondary regulation is needed.

8) Shims to tune the Ultra Light Trigger. If you have loose ones they may also be for the L10. The bottom of the ULT on/off pin has a pin hole in it making it easily identifiable. The ULT can give you the shortest/lightest non-pneumatic/electro 'Mag trigger possible. HOWEVER, it adds another level of tuning and most seem to think it's not worth the headache. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have a stock X/RT/ReTro on/off to make things simpler as you start your 'Mag journey.

9) Powertube spacers for tuning a non-Level 10 valve with slotted brass tip. A Level 10 is identified by the brass hex tip and tapered-base bolt with a stem sticking out of it and is preferred for the anti-chop capability.

10) Those are your carriers to tune the L10 bolt. There is a very handy guide on the bottom of the Level 10 bolt kit sales page on AGD's site. I suggest you get the newest, smallest couple carriers from AGD since you probably don't have them.

11) Don't go aftermarket for o-rings because while you can match sizes only AGD has the correct material in proper durometer to work and last. Look on top of the page - see "AirGun Designs"? Click it. Tim will take care of you.

* * * * *

If any of this is confusing, don't worry. Just ask here and remember pics or links for reference always help!

[AnthonyW]

Very nice HyperMag Mini! These guys pretty much answered your questions. If the ULT on/off gives you issues buy a regular RT On/Off & a .740 & .745 length pins to tune it in [emoji6]


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[trbo323]

6) I don't shoot electronics so I'm a little unsure, $150-250? Condition looks good but is it fully functional? I think the HyperFrames had a unique on/off valve that went with it.



9) Powertube spacers for tuning a non-Level 10 valve with slotted brass tip. A Level 10 is identified by the brass hex tip and tapered-base bolt with a stem sticking out of it and is preferred for the anti-chop capability.

10) Those are your carriers to tune the L10 bolt. There is a very handy guide on the bottom of the Level 10 bolt kit sales page on AGD's site. I suggest you get the newest, smallest couple carriers from AGD since you probably don't have them.


Let's see, as far as I can tell the hyper frame is working fine. It turned on and will fire the pancake noid if I reset the noid first, it wants to sit in the rear position on it's own so I pull it forward to reset it and it fires just fine. Is this normal? In a mechanical setup the sear pushes the trigger forward correct?

I'm fairly certain it's lvl 10, does have the foam tip and I saw the brass hex tip. I'll take some photos tonight

Should there be markings on the carriers for sizes? What do they actually do?

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[AnthonyW]

There are no dots smallest then dots & then lines on carriers in bigger sizes.


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[trbo323]

Here is the bolthttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190806/c2ede500f7b8becb8683f8d99a5eec9d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190806/e451c71b0044db34b5b99821fd4eb672.jpg

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[trbo323]

So, a few more questions

1) I've heard it's bad to dry fire automags, true? If so why?

2) any down side to switching to macro or a hard line to get air from the gas through grip to the valve?

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[MiniMaggin]

So, a few more questions

1) I've heard it's bad to dry fire automags, true? If so why?

2) any down side to switching to macro or a hard line to get air from the gas through grip to the valve?


nice pickup! the x valve is awesome! im not sure theres a use for a reg on a mag. the tank regs now have their set pressure. mags like all the pressure and don't need to have the pressure stepped down like other guns.

1- i would say that's bs. i think the bolt and valve would be indifferent if there's a paintball in front of it or not.

2 - nope there's a ton of macro out there i have macro on both mine. there's online stores that have it in colors a dollar a foot

[vintage]

yes that is a level 10 bolt.

i always dry fire mine to get the oil thru the valve. oiling and firing a paint ball only oils the inside of the barrel which makes the ball do some interesting curves until you get the oil out of the barrel.

macro or hard line is all personal preference.

[vintage]

if you stick with that body i recommend a better elbow. i like the ones from Pro Team Products personally.

[vintage]

Lapco made a forgrip extender for classic mags. you can still find them on ebay pretty regularly if you want to keep that rail. that is the beauty of Mags they are mostly plug and play.

[snoopay700]

Dry firing is only a problem in the same way it is with other markers; it wastes more air than if you had fired a shot due to lack of back pressure.

It looks like the rest of your questions have been answered with the response I would have given.

[trbo323]

Cool, I thought the dry fire might have something to do with the foam tip on the lvl 10. I'll air it up tonight

O, oil? Or grease?

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[Xazhe]

Oil.
Just dump a bit in the asa and dry fire about 10 times before each day of play

[trbo323]

Oil.
Just dump a bit in the asa and dry fire about 10 times before each day of play5 gallons in the ASA, got it

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[trbo323]

Ok, so, aired up and dry fired just fine

I'm super excited

Now, on to tuning. Is there any kind of link out there that I should read?

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[Walking Stick]

Now, on to tuning. Is there any kind of link out there that I should read?


Should there be markings on the carriers for sizes? What do they actually do?


10) Those are your carriers to tune the L10 bolt. There is a very handy guide on the bottom of the Level 10 bolt kit sales page on AGD's site. I suggest you get the newest, smallest couple carriers from AGD since you probably don't have them.

Go to that link I mentioned on AirGun Design's L10 page - it has all the info for carrier identification and tuning you need.

[trbo323]

Ok, read that.

So gold spring or red spring, I'm pretty sure I have gold, not positive about red

So what do the carriers actually do? Where are they in the marker? And why would the wrong one cause a leak down the barrel like that guide said?

I did air it up last night and fire it, shot great. Small macro line leak but that's easily fixed.

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[snoopay700]

Ok, read that.

So gold spring or red spring, I'm pretty sure I have gold, not positive about red

So what do the carriers actually do? Where are they in the marker? And why would the wrong one cause a leak down the barrel like that guide said?

I did air it up last night and fire it, shot great. Small macro line leak but that's easily fixed.

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If you unscrew the power tube tip (the brass piece with a hex that the bolt sits on) you can pull the carrier out. The carrier holds the o-ring, because tolerances on o-rings suck, so that's the only reliable way to adjust the ID of the o-ring. If your have one that is too big, the o-ring won't seal on the rear of the bolt. If you have one that is too small, it'll cause drag and you'll get bolt stick.

[trbo323]

If you unscrew the power tube tip (the brass piece with a hex that the bolt sits on) you can pull the carrier out. The carrier holds the o-ring, because tolerances on o-rings suck, so that's the only reliable way to adjust the ID of the o-ring. If your have one that is too big, the o-ring won't seal on the rear of the bolt. If you have one that is too small, it'll cause drag and you'll get bolt stick.

Ok that's pretty cool. I'll pull that out tonight and have a look

I assume if the o ring is too big I have a leak and if it's too small it won't fire?

What are the symptoms if I get it wrong?

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[snoopay700]

Ok that's pretty cool. I'll pull that out tonight and have a look

I assume if the o ring is too big I have a leak and if it's too small it won't fire?

What are the symptoms if I get it wrong?

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You need to use the same o-ring and change carriers. If you're on the smallest carrier (no markings) and it leaks, you need a new o-ring.

I start at the middle carrier and if it leaks, move down and go to the largest carrier that doesn't leak.

If it starts out not leaking, I move up in carrier size until it does, then go back to the last one that didn't leak.

[trbo323]

You need to use the same o-ring and change carriers. If you're on the smallest carrier (no markings) and it leaks, you need a new o-ring.

I start at the middle carrier and if it leaks, move down and go to the largest carrier that doesn't leak.

If it starts out not leaking, I move up in carrier size until it does, then go back to the last one that didn't leak.Sweet, that's super helpful thank you

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[captian pinky]

sent you a pm on mcb that will help with some info.

[Tunaman]

Sweet, that's super helpful thank you

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Screw your field strip screw lightly into the carrier oring then pull. The carrier will come right out. Always oil the outside oring on the carrier when reinstalling.

[trbo323]

Screw your field strip screw lightly into the carrier oring then pull. The carrier will come right out. Always oil the outside oring on the carrier when reinstalling.Got it! thanks,

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[trbo323]

Ok, so glad I paid the lady an extra $20 for all the random parts. Looks like I have all of the carriers

Next question (second photo)

Do these little washers adjust anything? There was one in front of the carrier that is installedhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190808/e35df4bbfb7002b10907ca0ab0f394d8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190808/e3486cb16e9f555fe45e1ab4107b66fa.jpg

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[captian pinky]

its for fine tuning the level 10

[snoopay700]

Ah, I forgot about those! They decide when the bolt will vent the air when it hits a ball that is half fed.

Basically you could wind up with it on a ball and not venting. If that's the case, you put in a shim to correct this. I hope that makes sense.

Check out this animation for how it works:
http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/animations/level10_6fps.gif

[trbo323]

How do you test it? I can't think of a very good way to make sure a paintball is halfway in the breach, is it just trial and error on the field?

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[trbo323]

Cool thanks, I've seen those animations before but now that I can hold the parts in my hand they make a lot more sense

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[snoopay700]

How do you test it? I can't think of a very good way to make sure a paintball is halfway in the breach, is it just trial and error on the field?

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You can either hold a reball or something else halfway in the breech or trial and error. Some people us their fingers but I haven't yet.

One other thing I forgot to mention, the sooner it vents also means the sooner the big piston takes over. That means the distance that the bolt travels while under low force will be shorter.

This isn't typically a problem from a chopping standpoint though. As such, you can realistically load it up with shims until it leaks, then back off by a shim or two, and if you start chopping paint or the test has it not pinching a reball, remove another shim or two.

Basically the level 10 was made for the guys that complained about the mag being too simple and hassle free compared to a cocker...

[trbo323]

You can either hold a reball or something else halfway in the breech or trial and error. Some people us their fingers but I haven't yet.

One other thing I forgot to mention, the sooner it vents also means the sooner the big piston takes over. That means the distance that the bolt travels while under low force will be shorter.

This isn't typically a problem from a chopping standpoint though. As such, you can realistically load it up with shims until it leaks, then back off by a shim or two, and if you start chopping paint or the test has it not pinching a reball, remove another shim or two.

Basically the level 10 was made for the guys that complained about the mag being too simple and hassle free compared to a cocker...

Just to be clear, the shims you are taking about are the ones on the bolt carrier?

So, using the same o ring, go up in size on the bolt carrier until it leaks a little, then back down one size, then up in the number of shims until it leaks a little, then back down a shim or two

Test with reball

Lol, I'm probably one of those guys. My cocker has confused some "cocker guys" before because they couldn't figure out how it works. I figured I need to make a mag at some point to compare, so far I'm absolutely loving it and how things like chopping have mechanical rather than electronic fixeshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190808/22ed769b1102aa2b01759e1611803be7.jpg

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[snoopay700]

Sounds like you've got it. The shims sit on top of the oring carrier and push it further into the power tube.

Most I've ever used has been 2, but normally I run with none because I've never had an issue.

That Cocker looks amazing. Something I would like to eventually scrounge up the money to do....

[trbo323]

So just to be clear, if I'm installing the carrier is this shims first then carrier?

Or carrier first?

Ya cocker has taken about 7 years to put together and if I had to guess I'm in it about $1200 at this point but it's been a fairly slow process. And it's very picky. Doesn't always want to work but when it does work, it's an absolute dream to shoot.

I got into cockers at just the right time though, it started life as a 2k5 superstock that I picked up for $200, then I got the e2 frame AND MQ2 valve together for another $200 which would be highway robbery on the market today. Last time I saw a MQ2 valve for sale it was going for $350 on it's own.

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[snoopay700]

Carrier first then shims.

Damn, that’s the main thing that stopped me putting an MQ in my cocker, I couldn’t find one for anywhere near a reasonable price.


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[trbo323]

Carrier first then shims.

Damn, that’s the main thing that stopped me putting an MQ in my cocker, I couldn’t find one for anywhere near a reasonable price.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWell you ain't prying mine away from me. Not to mention, with how I cut the body, it is mq only at this point. I can't run a hammer and spring setup any longer

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[trbo323]

Next question, what rail is thishttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190810/fe40fc3e3f1ede455fde483463efad2c.jpg

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[mobsterboy]

Next question, what rail is this

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Looks like one of Luke's Teth rails.

[going_home]

http://lukescustoms.com/rails.html

http://lukescustoms.com/uploads/3/5/4/5/35459873/teth-hybrid-long-1_orig.jpg

Teth rail.

;)

[trbo323]

One more question

On the bolt carrier, is the o ring towards the back of the marker or the front?

I'm not sure if I have the carrier in the correct way

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